Table of contents

Invitation to Kashubian Switzerland

1. About the region

2. Major attractions of Kashubian Switzerland

3. Trips in the central Kashubia

4. Active recreation

5. Overview of villages and towns

Author: Piotr Kowalewski

Translation: Janina Wasilewska

Cover design, concept art: Michał Tincel

Polish text’s editing: Aurelia Hołubowska

Współpraca: Aleksandra Moll, Joanna Matusiak, Joanna Kozimor

Photos on the cover:

upper photo – Piotr Kowalewski

lower photo – M. Śmierzchalski

Cover design, concept art: Michał Tincel

Typesetting: Michał Tincel

Editor

Stowarzyszenie Turystyczne Kaszuby

ul. Klasztorna 1, 83-300 Kartuzy

phone: 58 7367788, 668699077

e-mail: stk@kaszuby.com.pl,

www.szwajcariakaszubska.com,
/szwajcariakaszubska

Publishing

Amistad Sp. z o.o.

Program PolskaTurystyczna.pl

pl. Na Groblach 8/2, 31-101 Kraków

phone/faks 12 4229922

e-mail: biuro@polskaturystyczna.pl,

www.amistad.pl

ISBN: 978-83-7560-323-1

Edition III, Kraków 2020

Invitation to Kashubian Switzerland

Tourists who arrive to the central part of Kashubia since one and a half century call the region Kashubian Switzerland. Kashubians who live here for over a thousand years, believe that God has given this land special favour, showering it from his ‘creation bag’ with diverse beauty which was left after the entire process of world creation. As a result, in this part of Pomerania we encounter high but rolling hills, thousands of lakes and glacial mesh lurking in the deep depressions, shady ravines and wild forests of the former Kashubian Primeval Forest and above all, a lovely mosaic of single farms – the so-called pùstki – which are scattered among fields, meadows and woodlet. This impressive diversity is further enriched by still vibrant Kashubian culture.

Rich variety of landscapes, wildlife and wealth of culture results in the fact that each season gives an opportunity to spend fascinating holidays. Winter landscapes can be admired while skiing or sliding in several ski resorts or getting into sled during exciting sleigh ride. Spring delights with forest flowers growing on valleys and gorges, as well as fresh green beech trees. Summer encourages to rest nearby Kashubian lakes and explore the area during kayaking trips, by bike or on foot along marked trails. Finally, at the beginning of October, you can admire a cornucopia of forest colours which are getting ready for winter sleep.

Continuously extended offer of attractions makes it impossible to get bored even during unfavourable weather conditions. Tourist can visit numerous museums and amusement parks, during summer relax in crowded resorts and well-equipped lidos, as well as stay in accommodation facilities hidden among forest and lakes. Impressive viewpoints are easily accessible for both travellers by car and enthusiasts of resting in a kayak or on a bicycle.

1. About the region

View of Chmielno and the surrounding area, photo J. Lipiński.

Name and borders of kashubian switzerland

For more than 150 years the central part of Kashubia is sometimes called Kashubian Switzerland. This is a typically touristic term as Kashubians themselves use rather District or Communes names or call the area wëstrzódk, which means the central part. It was tourists coming here in the 19th century who associated local landscapes with Switzerland. Konstanty Damrot, Silesian priest who frequently travelled to the region, even wrote that Ostrzyckie Lake according to the Germans bear some resemblance with Lake Lucerne near Lausanne. One of the first to use the Polish variant of Kaschubische Schweiz was a renowned Kashubian writer – Aleksander Majkowski, who in 1913 published the first Polish guide to the given area.

The region does not have any clear-cut borders and at times the terrain of Kashubian Switzerland was said to stretch beyond Kościerzyna and Wdzydzkie Lake. This guidebook assumes that within Kashubian Switzerland are Kartuski District and Przywidz Commume which now belongs to Gdański District but until the First World War administratively belonged to Kartuski District. It is thus approximately the same area, which was indicated by the authors of the first guidebooks (so-called ‘bedekers’) inviting to the heart of Kashubia. Therefore, Kashubian Switzerland covers the surroundings of Kartuzy, Żukowo and Sierakowice, in the south almost reaches Kościerzyna, and in the north the borders of Gdańsk. The distance from region’s centre to its borders ranges from a dozen to more than 60 km.

Kashubians – indigenous pomeranians

Kashubians derive directly from a group of Slavic tribes known as Pomeranians. Historical sources give skimpy information concerning their origins. However, the most prominent expert of Kashubians’ history, professor Gerard Labuda, theorises that these people stem from area somewhere on the border of Mazovia and the former Prussian lands. During 6th-7th century they wandered to Pomerania where started forming separate tribes. Their structure of power was based on tribal elders and within the course of time local dukes began to overtake power.

In the 10th century Pomeranians have settled in areas adjacent to the Baltic Sea between the Vistula and Odra rivers and even on areas located further – on the contemporary Western Pomerania. In those times they lived side by side with the Polabian Slavs on the west, from the south were separated from the Polans by dense forests and swamps of the Noteć river while the valley of the Wisła River was border with Prussia inhabited by the Balts. In those times this slowly developing centre of authority on Pomerania was exposed to the influence of the Saxons, Danes and Polans. Prince Mieszko I Piast and then his son king Bolesław I the Brave imposed on Pomeranians his sovereignty by means of establishing new towns as well as by christianisation missions in Gdańsk and Kołobrzeg. Despite repeated attempts to free themselves from the subordination to the Piast dynasty, The Duke Boleslaw III Wrymouth during the next two military campaigns took Pomeranians once again under his authority. His vassals in Western Pomerania were the Dukes of the House of Griffins, who, however, relatively quickly found themselves within the sphere of influence of the Germans and Danes. The Germans due to colonisation of Western Pomerania dominated those lands, which resulted in the fact that ‘the heart of Kashubian’ was shifting further and further to the east.

During the period of ‘fragmentation’, Gdańsk Pomerania was one of provinces remaining under the authority of the Duke-Senior from Kraków. However, the Samborides – governors exercising power in the region – began to gradually free themselves from the influence of the Piast dynasty. The most prominent representative of that family was Świętopełk the Great who in 1227 became fully independent from the Piast. Samborides’ Principality under his leadership experienced economic boom. After heirless death of Swietopełk’s son – Mestwin II, the Greater Poland and Pomerania were united by Przemysł II, who one year later became the first Polish king since the creation of provinces. In 1308 the invasion of the Margraviate of Brandenburg has totally ruined Pomerania and Gdańsk. The Teutonic Knights were asked for assistance, defeated the invaders and subjugated those lands. It remained their possession until 1466 that is the end of the Thirteen Years’ War. Then the Eastern Pomerania became part of wealthy Royal Prussia.

The House of Griffins who ruled Western Pomerania during the 16th century have adopted Lutheranism and became the Dukes of the Reich. Until the mid-19th century sermons in numerous Protestant churches were preached in the Kashubian language and moreover, the first writings in Kashubian began to be published.

In 1637 the dynasty of Western Pomerania rulers has expired and their country was divided between Sweden and Brandenburg, while in 1772 as a result of The First Partition of Poland it became part of the Kingdom of Prussia. One of the aspects of the germanisation process of Kashubians was the activity of the Corps of Cadets in Słupsk, where sons of Kashubian nobility were educated. From the mid-19th century Kashubian writers and regionalists noticed the threat of losing identity. Among them Florian Ceynowa (1817-1881) the author of the first grammar of Kashubian is worth mentioning. As a result of increasingly

repressive laws imposed by the Prussian government a number of social and economic organisations began to be established and moreover, school strikes occurred.

The Treaty of Versailles has incorporated the major part of Kashubia into the Second Polish Republic. Only the western edges belonged to the Reich and a tiny eastern part was within the borders of the Free City of Danzig. The new Polish authorities in many cases did not trust the local population, treating as uncertain in terms of nationality. During crisis, hope for better financial condition of Pomerania was given by the newly established port in Gdynia and construction of the Polish Coal Trunk-Line leading through the Kashubian land.

The World War II began with the so-called Intelligenzaktion, during which thousands of Kashubians have been killed. Then came times of difficult choices: signing German nationality list or facing the threat of deportation to a concentration camp or resettlement. The outbreak of war marked the beginning of forming partisan units and since 1941 functioned the largest guerrilla group in Pomerania – Secret Military Organization ‘Pomeranian Griffin’ which might have associated even up to 18-20 thousand people both active fighters as well as supporting members. The most heartbreaking experience for Kashubians during the war was spring 1945 when the Red Army troops were passing through the region. Soldiers did not distinguish Kashubians from the Germans and have carried out numerous robberies, rapes and murders.

After World War II new authorities once again treated Kashubians distrustfully. Entire population was suspected to have pro-German outlook. In times of the Khrushchev Thaw a Kashubian Association was founded (nowadays: Kashubian-Pomeranian Association), which currently is the largest organisation working for the benefit of Kashubians. In the times of People’s Republic of Poland, for almost 50 years, the authorities were trying to destroy Kashubian culture, or at least present it merely as a nice product from ‘Cepelia’ (shop with regional souvenirs), open-air museums and folk bands.

Only after the fall of the communist regime Kashubians were finally able to cultivate freely their identity. In 2005 the Kashubian has officially gained the status of a regional language, and nowadays in some Communes is the second official language. Every year, there is an opportunity to pass Matura exam in the Kashubian language (equivalent to the English A-Level) as there are several thousand children learning Kashubian at school.

Symbols of kashubia

Kashubian coat of arms shows a black griffin with a crown on a yellow shield. An image of this animal appears in ancient myths and might have been brought to Pomerania from the Holy Land, given the fact that West Pomeranian Dukes went there on crusades. It also appeared as a sign of the Duchy of Kashubia on Western Pomeranian multi field coat of arms from times of Bogusław X the Great reign.

The Kashubian flag is divided into two longitudinal stripes of the same colors as the regional coat of arms. The top belt is black and the bottom yellow.

Nowadays, there are two songs considered as Kashubian anthems. The most popular is Marsz Kaszubski (Kashubian March), a fragment of a song sung by the hero of Kashubian epic – a narrative poem Ò Panu Czôrlińsczim, co do Pùcka pò sécë jachôł (Mr Czorlinsczi goes to Puck to buy fishing nets). Music was written by Feliks Nowowiejski. Nowadays, the song is being performed during important occasions. By contrast, the song ‘Zemia rodnô’ (Fatherland), which every day at noon is broadcasted on Radio Kaszëbë, refers to the ducal past of Kashubia and Pomerania when native land ranged ‘from Gdańsk to the gates of Roztoka’ (Roztoka nowadays is located in Germany).

Since 2004 on March 19th is celebrated Dzień jedności Kaszubów (Kashubians Unity Day) to commemorate the first historical written information concerning Kashubia. It appeared in the bull of Pope Gregory IX in which Duke Bogusław I of Szczecin is referred to as ‘the prince of Kashubia’.

Production of snuff, photo P. Kowalewski

Souvenirs worth buying

Among an increasing choice of souvenirs it is worth paying attention to those which derive from the tradition of Kashubian crafts and at the same time are easily accessible.

Kashubian ceramics – with original patterns, produced in the only open until today traditional workshop in Chmielno.

Products adorned with Kashubian embroidery – it is worth asking whether it is manual or machine embroidery.

Traditional snuff – made of tobacco and herbs by local craftsmen, is dry and peppery but strong.

Accessories made of horn – primarily horn snuff boxes, produced from cattle horns which were cooked for many hours then polished and decorated.

Kashubian language

Some linguists joke that the Kashubian language is older than the Polish since many Slavic words in Polish have already disappeared, yet still exist in Kashubian. It belongs to a group of western Slavic languages including the Polish, Czech, Slovak and Upper and Lower Sorbian.

In the early 20th century the Kashubian language was still demonstrating strong regional divergences and a few dozen dialects have been reported. Until today Kashubians from the south have sometimes difficulties to understand residents from Norda – the northern part of region. What is more, the alphabet of those residents does not include the letter ‘ł ’, which is replaced by ‘l’.

For decades, the Kashubian language was relegated to the private sphere of life. Thus, nowadays the language is spoken mainly among elderly people remaining in close intimacy (‘swoji’) as well as regionalists and enthusiasts. During the communist period the two generations of Kashubians lacked practical communication which is nowadays reflected in its condition. UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) still considers Kashubian as language seriously threatened with extinction.

At present, circa 106 thousand people use Kashubian on a daily basis or treat it as a mother tongue. The Kashubian language might be heard on the radio, the Internet and local television.

Alphabet and pronunciation rules of the Kashubian language

Alphabet
A Ą Ã B C D E É Ë F G H I J K L Ł M N Ń O Ò Ó Ô P R S T U Ù W Y Z Ż
In Kashubian alphabet there are no letters such as ź, ę, ć, ś.

How do we pronounce

sz, cz, ż, dż – soft, as ś, ć, ż, dź

ą – as ‘u’ nasal [un], sometimes during articulation simplified to ‘u’
ã – as ‘a’ nasal [an], sometimes during articulation simplified ‘o’ or ‘a’
é – slanted ‘i’, intermediate sound between ‘y’ and ‘i’
ë – short ‘e’
ò – as ‘łe’
ô – sound similar to ‘y’, in some areas ‘o’
ù – intermediate between ‘łu’ and ‘ły’

Popular phrases

Greetings: Niech bãdzë pòchwôlony Jezës Christus! lub Dobri dzéń!
Unofficial greetings: Witôj!, Witôjtaż! (l. mn.), Czesc!
Saying goodbye: Do ùzdrzeniô!, Òstani z Bògã!, Òstańta z Bògã!
Thanking: Bóg zapłac!, Dzãka!, Dzãkùjã!
Apology: Przeprôszóm.

Kashubian customs

Traditions without which Kashubians cannot imagine celebrating occasional or regular holidays are still being cultivated. Most of the customs are associated with celebrating the liturgical year, others have interesting, pre-Christian origin, while the most recent customs migrated from Germany in times of the Partitions and Kashubians assimilated them in their own way.

The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Sianowo looks extremely colorful during two annual Marian Church Fairs (the first Sunday after July 16th and Sunday after 8th September). Many people come to the celebrations in traditional Kashubian costumes and some parts of the mass are celebrated in the Kashubian language.

On Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve a fancy dressed group walks from house to house. During the first night they are called Gwiazdka (Kashubian: Gwiôzdczi) while during the other Gwiżdże.

Grandfather (Dziad), Grandmother (Baba), Death, Father Christmas, Policeman and other characters perform a show accompanied by music, sometimes do trick on hosts.

Easter Monday, that is Dëgùs, only recently began to be associated with water. Traditionally young girls have their legs whipped with juniper or birch twigs.

During the Sobótka night (summer solistice) in some places is still being cultivated the custom of beheading a red kite (species of a bird). Nowadays it is staged with a puppet, not a real animal. A red kite as an embodiment of all evil is subjected to a trial during which each participant can blame the bird for everyday life nuisances.

In certain areas the rite of a so-called ‘empty night’ (pusta noc) is still being cultivated. During night which precedes funeral in the dead person’s house gather the entire family, relatives and neighbours, sometimes even the whole village to sing until morning and watch the body of the deceased. In the parish of Sianowo the empty night is also celebrated at the tomb of Christ on Good Friday.

What is worth eating

Kashubian cuisine is not characterised by any distinctive tastes but it is worth trying fish, duck or geese dishes. Dishes popular in Kashubian cuisine include:

- pùlczi ze slédzama – jacked potatoes served with sauce made of salted herrings, onions and cream;

- wrëkòwô zupa – a soup made of yellow diced turnip with potatoes and cooked
on meat broth (preferably from goose) with plenty of marjoram;

- czôrnina –a soup made of duck or geese blood with dried fruit, mushrooms and addition of offal and carrots.

2. Major attractions of Kashubian Switzerland

Scenic landscape of central Kashubia hide numerous interesting places. Some of them are monuments of the past several hundred years, others have been created quite recently. To help you explore this region, here is a presentation of the most interesting and the most important places and objects – the ones that are predominantly worth seeing.

Post-monastery complex of the Carthusians in Kartuzy

Before Kartuzy obtained town rights for a long time functioned as a small settlement and a manor farm for the monastery. The latter was created by Jan from Rusocin (a village near Pruszcz Gdański), who was trying to atone for committed murder and offered land for creating the Carthusian monastery. The Carthusians derived from the French Alps where St. Bruno of Cologne founded the first monastery in 1084. They lead hermitic life and needed solitary site far from human settlements. Jan of Rusocin gave them land among lakes, on all sides surrounded by forest, which enchanted the monks so much that they have coined a term ‘Paradise of Mary’. They arrived here in 1380 and within a few decades have constructed a church and the majority of monastery buildings. This effort was supported by extraordinary generosity of the Grand Masters of the Teutonic Order and knights subordinated to them, which was somehow related to the collapse of morals and the desire of redemption.

Post-monastery complex of the Carthusians in Kartuzy, fot. J. Lipiński

In the glory years monastery in Kartuzy owned approximately 6700 hectares, mainly in the eastern part of today’s Kartuski District around Kolbudy and Nowa Karczma as well as on Żuławy and today’s Gdynia with its district Grabówek and real estates in Gdańsk. The period of prosperity was interrupted by the Polish-Swedish War, during which the Swedes plundered the monastery twice (in 1626 and 1655). After the Partition the Prussian government suppressed the monastery in 1826 and church furnishing was saved from auction by the inhabitants of the nearby Prokowo.

As it comes to the monastery buildings until nowadays have preserved: the former convent church, refectory, a hermitage and a well – all monuments date to the 14th century.

The Gothic Church of the Assumption of BVM is covered with rebuilt in 18th -century uniquely coffin-shaped Baroque roof. The nave and sanctuary obtained contemporary Baroque decor in the 17th century after the Swedish wars. Noteworthy are cordovans adorning sanctuary’s walls – the only in Poland maintained in such high quantity at their original site. Profuse wood carved fittings with motifs of saints adorn the celebrant’s throne and stalls where the Carthusians used to sit. The greatest masterpiece is hidden inside the Golden Chapel, that is the 15th century Gothic altar initially placed in the sanctuary. Above the main entrance to visitor’s surprise flies a white angel of death – clock’s pendulum, which resembles that our time in this world someday will come to an end. After all, one of the mottos of the Carthusian is ‘Memento mori’ (Remember that you have to die).

It is also worth paying attention to the only hermitage that avoided demolition. Hermitages were once connected by a cloister allowing monks to walk to the church. From the northern side of the temple is a refectory – former monastery dining room. Nowadays, an art gallery organises here temporary exhibitions. In the basement is an intimate café ‘Kawiarenka pod Refektarzem’.

Roman Catholic Parish of the Assumption of the BVM in Kartuzy, Klasztorna 3, phone: 58 6812085,  www.kolegiatakartuzy.pl; entrance for visitors through the sacristy; Access: the monastery is located in the lower part of the city, 15 minutes’ walk from the main square, near the exit roads to Sierakowice, Słupsk and Lębork; Parking: near the church, opposite the Tourist Information Centre at Klasztorna street or nearby Wzgórze Wolności street opposite park Solidarności.

The Norbertine’s Convent Complex

Although Żukowo is the youngest Kashubian town, not taking Gdańsk into account, it is where tourist can encounter the oldest architectural monuments in Kashubia. Those historic buildings are part of a former Norbertine’s Convent and their history is inseparably bound with the Samborides dynasty who ruled the Eastern Pomerania for approximately 150 years, up to 1294.

The Norbertines were brought to Żukowo by Duke Mestwin I (died in 1214 or 1215) to create a hinterland for Christianisation missions in Prussia. Since its establishment the convent was generously supported by local noble families. Mestwin’s granddaughter, Princess Damroka, the heroine of Kashubian legends about Chmielno and its surroundings, spend her last years of life there. Monastery’s chronicles from the subsequent centuries mentions numerous names of local nobility.

Since its foundation the Convent was bound with a female school attended by young girls of noble origin. Since the end of the 14th century a male school was founded as well. Maidens were taught needlework, including embroidery as all the canonicals were created on the spot. Over time, they have created a separate embroidery style, which centuries later gave birth to the Kashubian embroidery.

Likewise the monastery in Kartuzy, convent in Żukowo was suppressed in 1834. Finally, only the conventual church, part of the residential wing, the 19th century presbytery, stables, a coach house and a statue of St. John of Nepomuk in the courtyard avoided demolition.

Church of the Assumption of the BVM with its mainly Gothic architecture was erected in the 14-15th century, its vault and the matroneum for nuns come from the 17th century and the tower was rebuilt in the 18th century. Above the entrance to sacristy is a crucifix dating to 1360, in a side chapel is a small alabaster sculpture of the English school from the mid-14th century which depicts the Three Kings, and in the northern part of the nave is ‘Mestwin I altar’ dating to 1515. From this period dates also extremely rich Early Renaissance triptych on the chancel’s south wall. Next to is the main altar from the early 17th century with a painting connected with the Herman Han’s school. It is also worth paying attention to a Baroque pulpit and balustrade for nuns with the images of saints and blessed. On the loft are baroque stalls for nuns and elaborately decorated throne for the prioress.

Since 1990 the coach house building fulfills the role of a Parish Museum. On the ground floor is an exhibition presenting Kashubian culture from Żukowo area as well as information concerning the Żukowski style of Kashubian embroidery. The last student of monastic schools, Marianna Okoniewska, taught her granddaughters embroidery: Zofia and Jadwiga Ptach who during the interwar period basing on the golden embroidery motifs and liturgical style began to create and embroider colorful patterns. In such a way more modern the Wdzydzki style of embroidery has been created. On the first floor tourists can admire beautifully embroidered canonicals and old chronicles.

On a hill nearby the complex of post-monastery buildings has been erected 14th century church of John the Baptist. Once it was located on the central square of the village. As a temple situated beyond the convent walls it was intended for the laity. Numerous remodeling somewhat blurred his Gothic character. Nowadays, the interior of this single-nave church is decorated with Baroque main altar and paintings depicting birth and death of St. John the Baptist and the baptism of Jesus in the Jordan. In the central part of the altar is a statue of St. Augustine (left) and St. Norbert, founder of the Norbertines (right).

Roman Catholic Parish of the Assumption of the BVM in Żukowo, 3 Maja street 4, phone: 58 6818242, 6818225, parafiawnmpzukowo@gmail.com, www.wnmp-zukowo.diecezja.gda.pl; information about sightseeing must be notified at least one day before to the guides or in the tourist information at the church (guides: Genowefa Zasada – phone: 501 105 130; tourist information – phone: 533 266 754); in Tourist Information you can also rent audio guides; Access: Leave the national road 20 in front of petrol stations in Żukowo; Parking: free of charge

The Regional Centre of Education and Promotion in Szymbark

CEPR (The Regional Centre of Education and Promotion) is a combination of museum, open-air museum and amusement park, offering plenty of activities for the whole family. Centre’s founder Daniel Czapiewski was the owner of a nearby factory of wooden houses. In 2002, after visit to Austria, he decided to beat record which belonged to the Austrians and create world’s longest plank. Within the course of time this attraction was joined by others – buildings from the Kashubian area in Canada, Siberia and Turkey as well as entire Poland. All of them were transported here or reconstructed on the spot. Entire Poland has heard about the Centre due to the Upside Down House. Subsequently were built here, amongst others, ropes course and interactive Kashubian World of Fairy Tales. Beer lovers will definitely be interested in a local brewery Kaszëbskô koruna.

Upside Down House in The Regional Centre of Education and Promotion in Szymbark, photo District Starosty in Kartuzy

Today CEPR is probably the most frequently visited place in Kashubian Switzerland. During holiday weekends even 8 thousand people come here and queues to the Upside Down House are longer than 100 meters. In order not to get lost in such multitude of objects, the best option it to make use of guide services or buy a guidebook helping in exploring the described route.

After entering the Centre, you see the fountain of Kashubian Światowid – this sculpture has four faces. From the east is the image of a Carthusian monk and the building of Collegiate of Assumption of the BVM (former monastery church) in Kartuzy. On the south is the portrait of Józef Wybicki – author of the Polish national anthem who was born in Będomin 25 km from Szymbark. Antoni Abraham also called the ‘king of Kashubia’ is presented with a heart on hand on the west side. He was the propagator of Pomerania’s Polishness, and during the peace conference in Paris in 1919 he demanded joining Kashubia to Poland. From the north is a figure of a fisherman with characteristic features of Daniel Czepiewski’s father – Jan.

Next is the Scout’s House, which today accommodates CEPR offices and a gift shop. It was moved from the nearby Kolano at Ostrzyckie Lake. It has been built in 1936 as a part of a YMCA camp which during the Second World War served as a POW camp. After the war, it was adapted to the needs of Gdynia Shipyard’s holiday resort. At the entrance from the south, visitors can see archival photos of prisoners during the war.

In a wooden hall opposite the Scout’s House is the world’s longest plank from 2002 (36.83 meters). In 2009 Kashubians from Wilkowo near Lębork beat this record, cutting an almost 4 meters longer plank. However, during the same year the Germans became undisputed leaders, cutting a plank one meter longer. Daniel Czapiewski in 2012 once again broke the record achieving 46.53 meters. In addition to the commemorative exhibition presenting beating World Guinness Record there is also the so-called Nobel Prize Winner’s Table (in honour of Lech Wałęsa) made from part of a trunk which remained after cutting the first plank.

In the next room – Banquet Hall – is a showcase presenting former tools, -mostly used for woodworking. Worth noticing is a hand dental drill on the right side which will surely put smile on visitor’s face.

The next buildings accommodate an exhibition devoted to the Sybiraks. In original or reconstructed buildings have been gathered narratives, drawings and photographs of Poles exiled to Siberia. They bring closer various aspects of exile and work in labour camps. The Sybiraks’ House is a wooden hut moved from a village Zapleskino near Irkutsk, inhabited by descendants of Polish deportees. It was transported from the distance of 8300 km which demanded a great deal of effort. Next to the Sybiraks’ House is a replica of labour camp barracks from the town of Borowicze, built on the basis of drawings of postwar deportees – the Home Army’s soldiers. The following exhibits – connected with travel to Siberia – are located in cars at the Sybiraks’ Railway Ramp. Every year on 17th September in a nearby small amphitheatre is held World Congresses of the Sybiraks.

Coming out of the amphitheater, tourist pass the statue of Wojtek which stands on a pedestal in the middle of a pond. Wojtek was a brown bear brought up by soldiers of the 2nd Polish Corps of gen. Anders. During the battle of Monte Cassino Wojtek helped to carry heavy ammunition and was supplying artillery. Supposedly the bear did not drop any missile.

Another building on the visitor’s path is a wooden house of a Polish Insurgent transported from Adampol (Turkish: Polonezköy) in present-day Turkey. The Ottoman Empire never recognized the Partitions of Poland. After the collapse of the November and January Uprising many Poles emigrated to Turkey and their descendants still live there.

In the vicinity of the Insurgent’s House are several objects related to the history of Canadian Kashubians. Kashubians first came to Canada in 1858 from the poorest parts of Gdańsk Pomerania, mainly from Bytowski and Kościerski Districts. Poverty and the legal opportunity to look for profits abroad prompted them to emigration. However, on the spot it turned out that the long dreamed affluence has to be achieved by means of grueling work. Even though the newcomers were given approximately 40 hectares of land, before they could start cultivating it they had to grub up the forest. Until nowadays on the terrain of Kashubia in Ontario live approximately 10 thousands of Kashubians – it is the largest population of Kashubians abroad. Modest cottages of Kashubian trappers, both moved from the area of Vilnius in the Ontario region can give a glimpse of living conditions in Canadian taiga. Moreover, there are photographs and charts documenting skidding and timber rafting, as well as contemporary life of Kashubians from Canada.

Go further and reach a bunker which houses exhibition devoted to the largest Secret Military Organization in Pomerania, namely ‘Pomeranian Griffin’. A long tunnel leads to an underground hall – a small part of the bunker is occupied by a replica of the Ptasia Wola bunker from the Mirachowskie Forests near Kartuzy. In the presence of a guide are launched sounds imitating raids and Second World War battles. (The genuine bunker was captured by a small group of soldiers and all guerrillas inside have been killed).

Leave the bunker via the second exit and reach the Upside Down House. It is supposed to be an allegory of the contemporary world, where the system of values and traditions have been completely reversed. A walk through the Upside Down House is quite unusual because it creates conflict between the sense of balance and vision, resulting in impression of falling or losing balance. To minimise such feelings, you should first go to upstairs (that is the ground floor) to watch a collection of paintings referring to significant extend to the painful experiences of war and mass destruction during the 20th century.

Behind the Upside Down House is the Kashubian World of Tales, where moving figures resemble the most popular Polish and Kashubian fairy tales. In the summer you can also spend time in a nearby ropes course.

While heading for the exit, it is worth paying attention to a half-timbered peasant house (called Checz) transported from Wilanowo near Przodkowo. Nowadays, a regional tavern is located in this Kashubian hut.

A bit higher is St. Rafał Kalinowski’s – the patron of Sybiraks – chapel, which in fact is a peculiar collection of fragments of historic buildings from Poland and Kashubia – almost every plank and beam has its story. In the summer, on Sundays masses are celebrated here.

A massive building towering over the Centre is a hotel. On the ground floor we find the above mentioned brewery which gives tourists the opportunity to taste six types of local beers, as well as the -Regional Promotion Hall with the world’s largest piano – its weight is 1.8 tones. The first concert on it was played by a jazz musician Leszek Możdżer.

The only building in the centre, which interior cannot be visited, is a replica of the 17th century manor house of the Rexin family from Salino. Its architecture combines popular in Pomerania half-timbered structure with alcoves typical for Polish manors.

The Regional Centre of Education and Promotion in Szymbark, Szymbarskich Zakładników 12, phone: 512043759, 605570637, cepr@cepr.pl, www.cepr.pl; Access: from the national road 20 turn Szymbarskich Zakładników street, opposite turning to Piotrowo; Parking: in the centre, paid during season.

Wieżyca

Wieżyca (329 m) is the highest peak of the Szymbarskie Hills known also as the Szymbarskie Mountains. It is also the highest elevation on the belt of plains stretching from the Valdai Hills in Russia to the North Sea coast.

In 1869, at the time of creating the geodetic grid in Prussia, was built the first triangulation station tower. The hill was known then as Thurmberg which was later turned into Polish name Wieżyca (Kashubian: Wieżëca). Twenty years later, using the local stone and brick was constructed 15-meter high observation tower. Interestingly there was a terrace on its top and as a result the entire construction resembled a small fortified tower. It was demolished after the First World War. The next observation towers were built from wood by forester rangers. The last one collapsed at the beginning of 1989.

In 1997 was commissioned the existing steel observation tower named after Pope John Paul II. After going up tens of stairs, tourists are 35 meters above the ground level. The terrace overlooks greater part of the Kashubian Lake District and some neighboring regions. With good visibility conditions and binoculars there is a chance of noticing the area nearby Chojnice and even West Masuria which is on the other side of the Wisła river.

From Wieżyca the Szymbarskie Hills stretch through forested humps towards the south-east. What draws our attention there is a BTS tower. It is located on Szwedzka Góra (315 m). During the last war the Germans built a radar station there – a sound path leading to radar’s traces can be noticed even nowadays. Looking north from Wieżyca there is Ostrzyckie Lake which winds like a river and runs through the forested Ostrzyckie Hills. To the right in a valley (subglacial channel) runs a railway line Gdynia – Kościerzyna. It is worth to strain your eyes and notice Kartuzy with its church tower as well as Gdańsk-Rębiechowo Airport.

The most interesting yet rarely frequented trail leading to Wieżyca is a black walking trail from the railway station. This picturesque serpentine road is an opportunity to admire similar to primeval Pomeranian beech forest which is protected in a reserve ‘Peak of Wieżyca’. In terms of orientation more difficult route to the summit leads from the Kashubian Folk University (KUL) which is situated along the national road 20. The building has an interesting history as it was built in the late 19th century as Gospoda pod Wieżycą (‘Inn at Wieżyca’). At that time tourists visited the place in order to obtain keys to the brick observation tower on their way to Wieżyca. After the war until 1982 the building housed offices of the Forest Inspectorate and nowadays apart from the Kashubian Folk University there is also the Kashubian Language Council. It is worth looking inside the building to admire impressive gallery of folk sculptures and paintings from both Kashubia and Kociewie. The exhibits have been created during annual open air painting workshops organised by the Kashubian Folk University

Observation Tower, access: National Road 20, turn towards Szymbark and Gołubie; Parking: nearby the road to Szymbark, paid during season. Tourist Information Centre, phone: 586846939.

Kashubian Ceramics Museum in Chmielno

Chmielno might be called the capital of Kashubian Ceramics as there are two pottery workshops still functioning in the village. The older is run by the Necel family, who since 10 generations is preoccupied with manufacturing ceramics. Until the popularisation of mass-produced porcelain in the Kashubian region functioned numerous pottery centres, including among others those in Kosy, Kartuzy and Kościerzyna. Kashubia offers especially conductive conditions for carrying out such manufacturing process. Throughout the entire region are scattered deposits of grey ice-dammed clays which for centuries were applied to make bricks and other ceramic products. In Kościerzyna for seven generations was a workshop run by the Necel family. In 1897 Franciszek Necel moved to Chmielno, where at first he practiced at the local craftsmen and later set up his own workshop. Earnings decreased with time which almost resulted in ceasing running the business. However, inspired by attempts of Teodora and Izydor Gulgowscy, who at that time founded a museum in Wdzydze, he began to produce more decorative ceramics, which corresponded to the contemporary market needs. During the interwar period products from Necel’s workshop become famous all over Poland thanks to President Stanisław Wojciechowski who visited the place.

Period after the World War II was a tough time for potters – Leon Necel hoping to expand the workshop joined Cepelia. However, poor management and wrong distribution system of large cooperative resulted in the fact that the demand for goods was not adequate. Soon Necel’s workshop was reclaimed for the next 29 years to strengthen mass production of a cooperative in Kartuzy. It was not until 1979 when Ryszard Necel a representative of the ninth generation of potters’ family has finally regained it. In the following years artistic ceramics from Necel’s workshop has won numerous awards during folk art competitions, earning a well-deserved reputation.

Political transformation and market liberalisation resulted in another crisis in terms of selling ceramic products. This time, the owner was persuaded by the members of the Kashubian-Pomeranian Association and had set up a museum at the workshop – it was opened on 23 June 1993. After the death of Ryszard Necel family traditions are still being cultivated by his nephew Karol Elas-Necel.

Nowadays, ceramics in Necels’ workshop-museum is produced using almost the same methods as years ago. The only difference is that potter’s wheels are powered by engines and vessels are baked in an electric furnace. The gray ice-dammed clays is sourced from one of fields in Kashubia. After homogenization and appropriate humidification a vessel is being formed. When the process of drying out is finally over, objects are decorated with patterns specific for Kashubia: fish scales, elderberry twigs or a Kashubian star, the last manufacturing stage is covering with enamel. There is an opportunity of admiring entire manufacturing process live. There is also a shop with finished products – those who seek unusual and useful souvenirs from Kashubia should definitely visit it.

Kashubian Ceramics Museum in Chmielno, Gryfa Pomorskiego 65, phone: 58 6842289, 663672720, necel@necel.pl, www.necel.pl; Parking: nearby the road over Białe Lake or near the Tourist Information in Chmielno (Kaczy Rynek).

Manor of the Sikorski and Wybicki family in Sikorzyno

The village Sikorzyno is located among fields between Gołubie and Szymbark. In the 13th century it belonged to historical area called ‘Pirsna Land’ which centre was located near Gołubie in a fortified settlement – Pirsna and later in Kościerzyna. From Sikorzyno comes the Pomeranian family Sikorski, using the Cietrzew (Black grouse) coat of arms. Until at least the 16th century they owned the village. In 1609 due to marriage to one of the Sikorski’s daughters entire estate was handed over to the Wybicki family clan of Rogala. This is where older siblings of Józef Wybicki – the author of the Polish national anthem – were born. Józef himself was born in Będomin not far from Kościerzyna.

In 1834 the property was reclaimed by Prussian owners. They have built a new wing of the mansion as well as a steam distillery. Land allotment which took place in 1935 marked the beginning of slow degradation of the estate. After World War II the manor housed, among others, a school and shop. In 1992 the destroyed mansion with a park was sold to the Kashubian-Pomeranian Association. In 1998 the manor – already very dilapidated – was bought by a monument conservator Mr. Leszek Zakrzewski. He managed not only to renew the historic building but also save not yet plundered fittings. Moreover, he filled the interior with genuine furniture and appliances from period between the 17th and 19th century.

Nowadays, the manor once again is teeming with life and the owner who on a permanent basis lives in Gdansk often comes here to host the visitors. At present, the building houses a museum which is toured by guides dressed in clothes stylised for the given historical epoch. After visiting the museum visitors can taste various types of tea or coffee with a piece of apple pie in a manorial tearoom. While strolling among park alleys, tourists get the opportunity to check sense of orientation in a plant maze, which refers to the 18th century fashion for a green labyrinth which was located in close vicinity of palaces and manor houses.

Museum – Sikorski and Wybicki Manor in Sikorzyno, Sikorzyno 39A, phone: 506 233 553 (tourist service, renting rooms) 602256953 (the owner), www.dwor-wybickich.com.pl, Access: The best asphalt road leads here from the road Szymbark – Gołubie.

Sanctuary of Our Lady Queen of Kashubia in Sianowo

The village, picturesquely situated on a hill above the Łeba and Dębnica rivers and Osuszyno Lake, lies in the midst of the Mirachowskie Forests which abound in natural values. In its centre stands the largest wooden church in Kashubia: The Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Since the 15th century it became a place of pilgrimage for Kashubians who in front of the statue of Mary ask for graces through the intercession of the Blessed Virgin.

A beautiful folk tale tells the story of establishing the sanctuary. During the Midsummer night two lovers have decided to look for a fern flower. From certain distance they have noticed a faint golden glow coming from bushes. Highly intrigued lovers decided to come closer and instead of a fern flower they have found a statue of the Madonna and Child. Their decision was to donate it to a nearby church in Mirachowo as Sianowo at that time did not have a temple. The next evening, young people met in the same place and to their astonishment they saw that statue back where they initially found it. They took it to Mirachowo again. When the next day it once more reappeared in Sianowo, the villagers took it as a sign that Mary is particularly fond of this place. First they built a chapel here and then a church.

Parish in Sianowo was established in 1393 during the times of the Teutonic Knights. Yet, the residents of Sianowo area did not attend the new church for long as soon in 1480 it was burned down. However, the figure of Madonna miraculously survived. For a long time the new temple belonged to the parish in Strzepcz, performing the role of a filial church. Meanwhile, the cult of Our Lady of Sianowo expanded and many pilgrims have experienced healings. Despite wars and plagues in the area during the 17th and early 18th century the church survived. Tragic consequences had only fire in 1811 when the temple was burned down, and the surviving statue of Our Lady was transported to the church in Strzepcz. This time there were no plans to rebuild the temple in Sianowo yet, Mary gave a sign to one of the parishioners that the temple has to be rebuilt. After five years a new church designed by Prussian administration was erected.

The temple in Sianowo was built on a rectangular plan. Originally the wooden structure was filled with sun-dried earthen blocks (so-called paca), afterwards it was replaced by bricks. The tower crowning the western wall is covered by roof slope. Within the single-space has been created a presbytery by separating rooms on the sides. Three Baroque altars from the previous church have survived. The miraculous statue of the Madonna is located in the main altar and can be veiled and unveiled by a picture of the Immaculate Mary. On the nave’s northern wall one more statue of Our Lady from approximately 1500 is still stored.

To the east of the temple there is a pilgrimage square. It is surrounded by shrines of the Way of the Cross in the form of bas-reliefs. They have been made by a folk artists from Pomerania in accordance with Edmund Zieliński’s design.

During the so-called Great Church Fair of Blessed Virgin Mary of Mount Carmel, that is on Sunday 16th July, several thousands of pilgrims arrive to sanctuary in Sianowo. The celebrations last 10 days. Slightly fewer pilgrims come here on Sunday after 8th September for the Church Fair of the BVM Visitation which is also called the Feast of Matki Bożej Siewnej (name derived from the Kashubian name for September: séwnik).

Roman Catholic Parish of the Nativity of the Virgin in Sianowo, Sianowo 16, phone: 58 6855776, psiano-wo@diecezja-pelplin.pl, www.krolowakaszub.pl; church can be visited yet it is advised to make prior arrangement by calling the vicarage.

St. Martin’s Church in Sierakowice

Wooden churches are rarity in the central part of Kashubia. One of the three wooden churches on Kashubian Switzerland can be visited in Sierakowice. It was erected in 1822 as the last log frame construction temple on Pomerania. It was founded by the village heirs Łaszewscy family on the site of a former mid-17th century temple. In 1903 a decision concerning enlarging was undertaken. The wooden church was enlarged, adding a brick nave on the west side and moreover, a brick Neo-Gothic style tower was constructed. Due to the fact that parish in Sierakowice was growing rapidly and needed a larger church, it was decided to move the wooden part of the temple and reconstruct it as a separate building. The remaining brick part of the temple was expanded thus creating a new, more spacious building. The restoration has been completed in early 2014 and as a result the historic St. Martin’s church can now be admired in its original form.

The pine wood historic temple consists of a nave, a chancel which is narrower, elongated and has semi-hexagonal termination as well as a three-storey bell tower of frame construction, crowned with a tall, pyramidal dome. The roof is covered with shingle and walls are vertically timbered. On the north side is a chapel of Saint Barbara and a sacristy, while on the south an antechapel made of remnants of a dismantled tower.

The interior offers 18th century main altar with reliefs of Virgin and Child with Saint Anne and Pieta on the upper storey. The side altars are from the late 18th and 19th centuries while pulpit depicting the Evangelists dates to the 19th century. In the chapel of St. Barbara is a painting depicting St. Francis adoring cross.

Currently the Commune Culture Centre in Sierakowice is in charge of the temple. Exhibitions, vernissages and concerts are being organised there.

Both St. Martin’s temples in Sierakowice – the parish one and reconstructed historic – are located within the area of the Cultural Park of Eight Beatitudes which is centered around the papal altar. During the visit of St. John Paul II to Poland this altar was hired for a Mass celebrated by the Holy Father on 6th June 1999 in Pelplin. The altar has been designed by a resident of Sierakowice – Jaroslaw Wójcik and constructed by local craftsmen.

Church of St. Martin in Sierakowice (wooden), Bernarda Łosińskiego 1 B street; temple’s host: Commune Culture Centre in Sierakowice, Kartuska 27, phone: 58 6816214, 6847602, gok@sierakowice.pl, www.gok.sierakowice.pl; Access: Churches and park located in the centre Sierakowice; Parking: nearby the market, you can also park at Bernard Łosińskiego street.

Stone circles in Węsiory

The only prehistoric structures encountered in Kashubia are burial mounds and stone circles. Specialist claim that until the 19th century more than 40 such centres might have existed on Pomerania. Unfortunately, many of them were destroyed due to the lack of knowledge or were treated as an easy accessible source of building materials. Hence, nowadays stone circles can be found only in 4-5 places on the terrain of Kashubia. Some of the best preserved are located near village Węsiory in Sulęczyno Commune.

The stone circles are accompanied by numerous archeological finds linked to the Wielbark culture. This culture is connected with the arrival of the Goths – a Germanic tribe in the second half of the I century. The most probable reason of migration was progressive climate cooling in the northern Europe, which meant difficulties in access to food. Two valid records of this journey written by Roman historians have survived: Tacitu’s (I-II century) and Jordane’s (VI century). According to the second one, king Berig together with the whole tribe departed from Skandza (Scandinavia) and settled on the other side of the Baltic Sea – probably in the mouth of the Wisła river. This land was called by the Goths Gothiscandza. From this site they have spread out across Pomerania and to some extend mingled with the local population. For some unknown reasons, circa year 180 under the 5th king Filimer, a decision about going further to the south was undertaken. In the late 4th century the Goths settled nearby the Black Sea in the area of today’s Odessa where they split into the Visigoths and Ostrogoths. Goths’s assets included discipline and being battle-hardened and therefore to a large extent they have contributed to the fall of the western Roman Empire.

The Wielbark culture was characterised by interesting biritual burial rite. On Pomerania, beside cremation were also found traces of inhumation burials. The body was laid on a wooden board, head north. The Gothic cemeteries were situated far from the settlements and usually separated by a river or lake. They consisted of stone circles and barrows, that are tombs covered by mounds with cobble cladding. Moreover, flat graves marked by a solitary, vertical stelae occurred as well. Supposedly, the circles constituted a meeting place for the elders and site for ceremonies during which most likely human sacrifice was practiced. What is more, they could have constituted a kind of temple.

The cemetery in Węsiory is located on a hill among pine forest. On the west side is a valley and below are shores of Długie Lake. Archaeologists got interested in the site already before World War II, but thorough research was carried out in the years 1955-1963. Then the research was carried out on 20 barrows, 3 or 4 stone circles and 91 flat graves. Basing on objects found in the tombs scientist state that the cemetery was founded approx. 70-80 AD and the dead were buried here until the turn of II and III century. The oldest formations are circles of stone stele placed vertically on the hill and at its foot. Burials were found only in one of them, in the upper part of the archaeological reserve. Around the circles are earth and stone barrows containing from one to three graves, which suggests that they fulfilled the role of family tombs.

In graves in Węsiory have preserved some jewellery and other valuable items. Among others fibules (a brooch for fastening garments), pendants, glass and amber beads, spurs, belt buckles were found.

The cemetery in Węsiory, entrance: free; access 1.5 km south of the village Węsiory, initially drive towards Niesiołowice; Parking: paid

The Kashubian Miniature Park

In the valley of the Łeba river near Mirachowo, in an ordinary yet picturesque village of Strysza Buda since 2009 functions the Kashubian Miniature Park. It was set up by village’s residents Dorota and Grzegorz Skrzypkowscy and constitutes a new attraction of the Mirachowskie Forests. Dozens of miniature buildings from all over the world have been collected there. All of them are reconstructed in 1:25 scale. They were built on the site or transported to the park by a company specialising in architectural miniatures. Objects are made of waterproof and frost-resistant materials.

The Kashubian Miniature Park – miniatures of Pomeranian lighthouses, photo P. Jakimiak

A walk through the park begins with watching miniatures of buildings from all corners of the world. Among the first several monuments are: The White House, Big Ben, the Eiffel Tower or the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

Miniature objects from Pomerania constitute a large group of exhibits, which is why the trip to the Miniature Park might be a good introduction to exploring Kashubian Switzerland. Behind the Statue of Liberty, you can see the miniature of the Wybicki family mansion, which today stands in Będomin – hometown of Józef Wybicki. There is also a miniature of the Collegiate Church in Kartuzy – former Carthusian conventual church. Go further and pass a model of the largest Kashubian castle located in Bytów. Attention should also be paid to a beautiful Neo-Baroque church in Wygoda Łączyńska. In close vicinity is a model of the Basilica of St. Mary in Gdańsk – the world’s largest brick temple. While heading for the exit, you can see how 100 years ago looked churches in nearby Sierakowice and Sianowo.

Several objects are miniatures of monuments from the northern Kashubia, among others, Calvary chapels in Wejherowo, a Neo-Gothic palace in Rzucewo near Puck, The Slovincian Village from Kluki in the Słowiński National Park.

Another group constitute models of most famous buildings from Poland; it is worth looking at St. Mary’s Church from Kraków, Lublin Cathedral and an impressive palace in Kamieniec Ząbkowicki on Silesia. The tour comes to an end with a constantly growing collection of miniature lighthouses from the Pomerania region.

In the park there are also numerous other attractions, for example a fun house full of distorting mirrors, house of fears, fairy-tale village with characters from children’s stories and a mini zoo with races of miniature animals. At an additional fee there is opportunity of organising a bonfire here.

Kashubian Miniature Park, Strysza Buda, Kartuska 30, phone: 502499106, 505136658, KaszubskiParkMiniatur@wp.pl, www.kaszubskiparkminiatur.pl; guided tours after prior reservation.

3. Trips in the central Kashubia

Kashubian Road

Route: Kartuzy – Chmielno – Ostrzyce – Wieżyca

Length: 28 km

A car ride via the so-called Kashubian Road is a perfect option for all tourists who wish to admire the most picturesque corners of Kashubian Switzerland but face time constrains. The route leads among the high Kosie, Ostrzyckie and Szymbarskie Hills and winds among lakes in deep tunnel valleys. On the way, tourist pass some worth visiting viewpoints. A visit in the Kashubian Ceramics Museum and the church of Saints Peter and Paul in Chmielno is an opportunity to get acquainted with Kashubian handicraft. In Ostrzyce it is worth taking a boat trip on Ostrzyckie Lake considered the most beautiful in Kashubian Switzerland. Reaching the top of Wieżyca – the highest peak of the Polish Lowland – gives you the chance to enjoy one of the most extensive views of northern Poland.

The trip begins in Kartuzy with visiting the complex of post-monastery buildings of the Carthusian monks . Then get to Wzgórze Wolności Street and head towards Słupsk and Sierakowice (regional road 211).

While still driving through the city, on the right side is a steep, wooded hill with a chapel on the top. It is Góra Spiczasta where in the mid-17th century the Carthusians have built a Holy Cross chapel. According to legend it used to be a meeting place for witches. In 1989 the dilapidated building was restored by the local parish. Legends describe an underground connection between the chapel and monastery which is supposed to hide vast treasure.

Tunnel valleys

The central upland part of Kashubia is crossed by numerous deep valleys. Almost all of the them were created at the end of the last Ice Age, when approximately 15 thousand years ago the glacier stopped here. During the warmer season melting ice was creating powerful rivers. They flew under the foot of the glacier running in caves under ice. Quite frequently, caves’ ceiling collapsed, and rough water buried chunks of ice in sands and gravels. Finally, the river beds of the under ice rivers were buried as well. After the glacier retreated, the landscape was much flatter than nowadays. Alongside with gradual global warming melted all previously buried chunks. In such a way longitudinal tunnels have been revealed. They had steep slopes and at present are called tunnel valleys. Many of them are now filled with long and deep ribbon lakes.

On the left side where the forest begins is a fenced area. It is Arboretum of Karthusian Forest Rangers named after Jerzy Schwengel (entrance: free) opened in 2011. The nature trail makes visitors acquainted with 23 different species of trees typical for the area.

Then the road enters forests growing on the Kosie Hills which steep slopes can be seen on the left. Their height exceeds 260 meters. On those hills among beech forests have been marked numerous hiking and biking trails.

Leaving the forest, pass the first buildings in Łapalice. On the right side is a former brick factory which supplied Kartuzy and the surrounding area. A steep slope of Łapalicka Góra opens up a view over extensive Chmieleńskie Lowland with three lakes: Rekowo, Białe and Kłodno (the so-called Chmieleńskie Lakes). On the right in front of you is Łapalickie Lake. Turn left into Zamkowa Street and follow the road to an unfinished castle in Łapalice located within 2.5 km. Its construction in the early 80s was initiated by Piotr Kaźmierczak – a well-known sculptor and woodcarver from Gdańsk. Castle’s area is 5000 m^2 with 12 towers, a ballroom and swimming pool supposed to be filled with wooden sculptures and other masterpieces. Unfortunately owner’s -financial problems did not allow for completing construction works. Currently, access to the property is prohibited.

Castle in Łapalicach, photo J. Lipiński

Pass Łapalice and reach Łapalickie Lake also known as Garcze Lake. Between those two lakes and the road runs a railway line Kartuzy – Lębork which was opened in 1905 but currently is unused. Reach Garcz and on the right pass a former railway station. The name of the village is an evidence that a fortified settlement once existed here. At the beginning of the 12th century it was presumably the seat of a Castellany.

At the crossroad, turn into the direction of Chmielno and start the journey via the Kashubian Road. It connects Garcz with Wieżyca. It was built in the late 60s to create a tourist route for motorists. After driving among winding hills above Garcz reach Chmielno. Once again there is an opportunity to admire views, this time overlooking Białe Lake and the Kosie Hills towering above. Arrive to the centre of the village, on the right side pass the Museum of Kashubian Ceramics. Parking is located near Białe Lake, opposite the parish church, and (for coaches as well) on Kaczy Rynek (literally: Duck Market). The square took its name from annual ducks purchase organised here. Go along Białe Lake for approximately 0.6 km and reach the Communal lido. From Kaczy Rynek the road leads up to a triangular square called Rozsadnisko. On the way you pass the 19th century church of Saints Peter and Paul with interesting, typically Kashubian décor.

Alternative route

A well-known viewpoint: Tamowa Góra towers over Chmielno. In order to get there from the Communal lido follow road towards Rekowo. Signs of a red walking trail lead up the hill, where from the crossing with cycling routes go to the top. It offers a view of Chmieleńskie Lakes and the distant Mirachowskie Forests. Distance from Kaczy Rynek in Chmielno to the summit is approximately 3 km.

From Chmielno drive downhill to nearby Chmielonko where we cross the Radunia river. At this point, it connects Raduńskie Lake with Kłodno Lake on the right. There is a historic mill dating to 1738 which was rebuilt numerous times. Follow the southern shores of Kłodno Lake and cross again the Radunia, which connects the lake with Małe Brodno Lake on the right. In such a way enter the village Zawory, stretching like a terrace at the foot of the Kosie Hills. The history of settlement dates back to the 13th century when Kashubian prince donated the village to the Norbertines from Żukowo.

Leaving Zawory the road winds parallel to the shore of Małe Brodno Lake. After passing a lonely farm on the left reach the top of Góra Sobótka. It is worth turning here and going up to the peak. It offers a breathtaking view of Małe Brodno Lake and villages of Zawory and Chmielno. Since 2012 there is a replica of Koźlak (which is a post mill) – the oldest
type of a windmill in Poland. On Pomerania koźlaki were erected from 2nd half of 14th century due to special dispositions given by the Great Masters of the Teutonic Order. On the base, it has a wooden structure, the so-called goat (Polish: kozioł). To the base was attached an axis around which the windmill rotated in order to adapt to the direction of wind. In the 20th century, when the steam engine became more widespread, the number of windmills decreased. Finally, bans on production introduced during the Nazi occupation put an end to their existence. Nowadays, the remains of windmills in Kashubia are to be found in Lębork area and fully reconstructed in the Kashubian Ethnographic Park in Wdzydze near Kościerzyna. On the ground floor of Koźlak on Sobótka is a café while upstairs is an apartment. Moreover, in the windmill tourists can see a reconstructed mechanism, transported from Sokółka in Podlasie. In mill’s vicinity is a playground for children.

From Sobótka we soon reach Ręboszewo. Get closer to the Kartuzy-Bytów road, turn right and pass another bridge over the Radunia between Lakes Małe and Wielkie Brodno. Go further from the lake and after a while reach Złota Góra – another viewpoint. Stopping here for a moment is highly advisable. Opposite the parking lot is a monument to the Heroes of the Resistance of Gdańsk Pomerania sculpted by Wiktor Tołkin – a member of the Home Army and prisoner of Auschwitz. Primarily, the monument commemorates soldiers of the Secret Military Organization ‘Pomeranian Griffin’ – the largest guerrilla group in the region, operating in Kashubia and Kociewie. In its prime the organisation associated 20,000 soldiers and supporters. The statue shows an eagle with griffin which might also be found on the Kashubian coat of arms.

Next to the monument is an observation deck allowing for admiring among others Wielkie Brodno and Ostrzyckie Lakes. Seen from this perspective the highest are the Szymbarskie Hills with their peak – Wieżyca (329 m.a.s.l.).

On the slopes of Złota Góra was built an amphitheater which roof is in the shape of an inverted boat. Every year at the turn of June and July during weekend is held here one of the largest outdoor events in -Kashubia –
Truskawkobranie (Strawberry Harvest Festival). Apart from concerts, strawberries are obviously the main attraction. Hundreds of kilograms of Kashubian strawberries, a product with protected geographical indication (PGI) are sold during the feast.

Behind the amphitheater nearby the lake since 2010 operates the Centre of Water Sports and Promotion of the Region. This highly modern marina offers opportunity to rent sailboats as well as other water sports equipment.

Water equipment rental, Centre of of Region “Złota Góra” in Brodnica Górna: Żeglarska 4, www.centrum.kultury.pl/cswipr,  phone: 58 6812939, 509 980 780, 517536807 (rental V–IX).

From the crossroad on Złota Góra drive downhill towards Wieżyca. Pass Brodnica Dolna located between Wielkie Brodno and Ostrzyckie Lakes. From that point drive along the shores of Ostrzyckie Lake and arrive soon to the village of Ostrzyce. In its centre is a square with a car park giving a chance to admire scenic view of the lake. It is worth going to a nearby pier which in season allows you to board a pleasure boat ‘Stolëm’ and enjoy a sailing cruise on the lake.

Alternative route

Between Ostrzyce and Brodnica Dolna towers Jastrzębia Góra which commands probably the most magnificent panoramic view in all Kashubia. To reach its top, from a square in Ostrzyce head towards Brodnica and then turn into Jastrzębia street. Access is marked with red triangles. Now, leave a shady ravine and enter a housing estate located above, the top of the first hill is nearby. The Devil’s Rock (in Polish: Diabelski Kamień) lies there – a boulder which perimeter is almost 6 meters. The Prussian king Friedrich Wilhelm IV visited this place in 1851. To commemorate this event the hill was called Królewskie Wzgórze (Royal Hill). Due to the presence of trees visibility is limited thus, it is worth going higher to the top of Jastrzębia Góra. Landscape seen from this perspective 150 years ago resembled German tourists the area of Lake Lucerne in Switzerland. In order to return to the parking follow the same way.

From parking in Ostrzyce move on and pass a fish bar which offers fish from nearby lakes. The road passes round a bay and reaches part of Ostrzyce called Węgleszyno. There is a camping, lido, marina for the pleasure boat, guest house and hotel.

Then the forest section crosscuts steep slopes of Bukowa Góra which is a part of the Ostrzyckie Hills. During the last war a local forest ranger, Józef Król, was hiding dozens of prisoners of war who had escaped from a nearby prison camp in Kolano. Due to friendly relations with the local German officers, none of them has been found.

Arrive to another lakeside settlement – Kolano, named due to a horseshoe-shaped turn of Ostrzyckie Lake (it looks like a knee which in Polish is ‘kolano’). Over the road runs a footbridge which links the panoramic terrace of a huge water sport equipment rental with vacation centre located above. Interestingly, some wooden cottages in the resort were built in the 30s’ of the 20th century by the YMCA (Young Men’s Christian Association), which was the third such a permanent camp in Poland. During the war in those cabins were detained, among others, British, Polish and Ukrainian prisoners of war.

Go further and at the bend on the right side pass a brick house which stands on the site of the first tavern in Kolano. Its history dates to the mid-17th century and was honored by obtaining a privilege from King Jan III Sobieski. After a while drive under the railway line Gdynia – Kościerzyna, a part of the pre-war Polish Coal Trunk-Line (Silesia – Gdynia). The road to the right leads to the oldest ski resort in Kashubia – Koszałkowo, which offers attractions both in winter and summer. A little further pass the upland part of Kolano which functions as a summer resort. On the hill on the right side at the top is a dark, tall wooden house, which was built during the war as a sanatorium for the Luftwaffe airmen and for some time after the war fulfilled the role of a ski lodge.

Now we begin a long uphill road leading to the Szymbarskie Hills. In front of us are among others, sharp turns (up to 180 degrees!). On the right are steep northern slopes of Wieżyca covered mainly by poor quality, acidic beech forest. Since 1962 the forest has been under protection as the ‘Wieżyca Peak’ reserve. On the left nearby the road is a forest car park with benches and shelters.

The Kashubian Road finishes when we reach the national road 20. Here turn right at the crossroads. On the right side is a building of a former hostel, at present the seat of the Kashubian Folk University. What is more, it houses a gallery of sculptures and folk paintings from Kashubia and Kociewie. Soon we reach the crossroads then turn right and after 100 meters stop at the car park. From that spot leads the shortest (0.8 km) and most convenient access to the peak of Wieżyca – follow signs of a black walking tourist trail. The final destination is an observation tower. The trip can be continued by visiting Szymbark or following the next route Over Raduńskie Lakes.

Over Raduńskie Lakes

Route: Szymbark – Sikorzyno – Gołubie – Wygoda Łączyńska – Chmielno

Leghth: 60 km

It is the continuation of the Kashubian Road from Chmielno. The route winds between long lakes, leading to several interesting places in the area. Along the way, in addition to admiring scenic views, you can drink coffee in the ancestral seat of Józef Wybicki, see hundreds of rare and exotic species of plants in a botanical garden or fall into the very heart of the strawberry revolution which altered lives of many Kashubians from Kartuski District.

The trip starts in the centre of Szymbark, where numerous buildings from the late 19th and early 20th century have been maintained. Moreover, it is famous for its extraordinary Regional Centre of Education and Promotion. Then, move towards Gołubie. After reaching upland area in the neighboring Potuły drive downhill. To the right leads a road to picturesque Kniewo Lake yet, we turn left towards Sikorzyno. From the hill we can still admire views of the western side of the Szymbarskie Hills. The highest among those wooded hills is Wieżyca with an observation tower at the top.

Follow a road which winds through fields and reach a small village Sikorzyno which centre consists of buildings clustered around a former manor farm. Nearby road opposite a small pond is a fenced garden around the Wybicki and Sikorski Manor House. It is worth touring the mansion, resting in the manorial tea room and having fun in the plants maze. On the opposite side of the road are solid buildings of the former distillery built by the Prussian owners.

From Sikorzyno return to the Szymbark – Stężyca road. Turn left after a few hundred meters and reach Gołubie. Drivers should be particularly careful on a steep downhill road and on the bend before the railroad turns right into Botaniczna street. Approximately 700 meters away there is a small parking and an entrance to the Botanical Garden in Gołubie – a private institution run by the Butowski family. That continually increasing collection of plants from around the world currently has approximately 4,000 species covering the area of 2.12 acres.

The Botanical Garden in Gołubie, Botaniczna 21, Gołubie, phone: 58 6843608, 600872501, zbutowski@wp.pl, www.obgolubie.robia.pl

After returning to the main road across the village, turn right. After a while cross the railway line Gdynia – Kościerzyna, that is the former Polish Coal Trunk-Line: Silesia – Harbours. On the left are the historic railway buildings, including family brick houses for railwaymen from the 30s of 20th with characteristic oeil-de-boeuf (small oval windows called also bull’s eye) in the roof. Recently increasing number of holidaymakers visit Gołubie due to health holidays. This is why in village’s centre was established a shop offering healthy food and wholegrain cereal products produced locally. A little further on the right pass an old mill and pond of a former water mill on the Gołubska Struga. Likewise in Szymbark, numerous buildings from the late 19th and early 20th century have been maintained.

After leaving the village the road enters forest. On the left, pass Dąbrowskie Lake, popular among holidaymakers from the surrounding area, perfect for taking a stroll. Less than 3 km from Gołubie turn right (direction: Uniradze). For approximately 2.5 km follow a gravel road until you reach a forest car park. Leave the car here and walk via a recently created archaeological path to discover one of the biggest barrow cemeteries in Europe. According to estimations there are even 3500 mounds.

Continue the journey and return to the main road. Follow signs to Stężyca which is just after the forest. Until the 20s Stężyca was administratively divided into Królewska (you drive through it) and Szlachecka. On the right a picturesque Neo-Gothic church from the early 20th century draws our attention. Until 70s a cemetery was located right opposite the temple. Currently, a Commune Office is located in the former priest’s house. At the crossroad, on the left side is the 20th century Neo-Gothic pole shrine erected as a votive offering for saving life during the war.

Now cross the unobtrusive Radunia river which at this point connects Stężyckie and Raduńskie Lakes and enter Stężyca Szlachecka. Buildings in the centre are typically small-town and come from the turn of 19th and 20th century. On a hill is St. Catherine of Alexandria church dating to 1710.

From the centre of village go a bit back to pass the Radunia river and drive towards Kartuzy. While leaving the village, on the left are holiday resorts. Soon reach Zgorzałe a village which dates to 13th century. Women association is very active here and they have set up a regional chamber in the local firehouse. It is also worth going down to Raduńskie Lake using any of several convenient descents.

Leave Zgorzałe and turn left at the crossroads with the regional road. On the right, in the forests is hidden the village Przewóz, which name comes from a narrow part of Raduńskie Lake, where wanderers attempted to pass a river. When in the 19th century the road transportation began to develop, a dyke on the lake was constructed to enable building the Kartuzy – Bytów road. After winding descent reach the dyke, with a high-sounding name the Kashubian Gate. Between the trees you can see distant tunnel valley filled with a lake. The area on the right is Dolne Raduńskie Lake, highly interesting for sailors, with its numerous bays and peninsulas. Smaller but deeper (up to 43 m) Górne Raduńskie Lake can be seen on the left. One of the two islands on the lake might be noticed as well. Near the road stand buildings of the Limnological Station of the University of Gdańsk, which carries out mainly meteorological and hydrological studies of the Eastern Pomerania Lakes. For some time drive parallel to the lake shore. Turn right before the village of Borucino (signpost ‘Miechucino’). Once again climb the upland. After a while, on the right opens up a broader view. Sharp observers will notice the distant Szymbarskie Hills with Wieżyca.

Another picturesque view commands in front of you after reaching Wygoda Łączyńska. This village offers the 20th century church of St. Joseph, which was built almost in the middle of nowhere. Well preserved design intent of the temple as well as houses from the time of church construction are of great historical value. Moreover,
parish in Wygoda is the birthplace of Kashubian strawberry. Nowadays, these areas are famous for its cultivation both in Poland and abroad.

From Wygoda head towards Miechucino. On the left goes the road to Długi Kierz, where the tradition of cultivating strawberry began. On the right side is a valley in which the Łeba River has its head section and further in the city of Łeba reaches the Baltic Sea. Finally, reach Borzestowo – a village from which derives the well-known Kashubian family Borzestowski. A regional chamber which functions here definitely deserves tourist attention.

After leaving Borzestowo on the right side in a picturesque scenery of a deep tunnel valley is Długie Lake. On the left steep slopes of Garecznica reach the valley. For a long time its towering shape intrigued both locals and archaeologists. Archaeological research has confirmed that in the years 1000-650 BC there was a fortified settlement of the Pomeranian culture.

Drive along Długie and Wielkie Lakes and reach Miechucino. On the right is a parking with view on Wielkie Lake, rural park and a freely accessible beach. Turn right at the crossroad (direction: Kartuzy). The road now leads along a disused railway line Kartuzy – Łeba, we cross it several times. Nearby road is also the Łeba river which changes direction nearby Reskowo. In Garcz we reach the Kashubian Road. The trip can finish in Chmielno or be continued in accordance with the description of Kashubian Road.

The mysteries of the Mirachowskie Forests

Route: Kartuzy – Sianowo – Mirachowo – Lubygość Lake – Zamkowa Góra – Sierakowice

Length: 54 km

This tour will be a delight for wildlife lovers and beautiful landscapes enthusiasts. In the Mirachowskie Forests, one can see forest bogs, follow a path among springs areas in deep ravines, look inside the pseudokarst caves, wade through fields of cotton-grass and please the eyes with commanding views. Natural wonders are accompanied by monuments and other attractions for the whole family. The trip can start in Chmielno or Kartuzy or from the other side: in Sierakowice or Kamienica Królewska.

From Kartuzy head Aleksander Majkowski street towards Mirachowo. Mr. Majkowski is the author of the most important Kashubian epic Żëcé i przigòdë Remùsa (The Life and Adventures of Remus), published in numerous translations. The writer spent the last years of life in Kartuzy, working as a doctor and writing the first Polish-language guidebook to Kashubian Switzerland. Majkowski’s House, with a commemorative plate visible from distance is located among old villas, at the crossroads of Ceynowy and Majkowski streets. Further on the left is an old multi-family housing estate with gable roofs, dating to the times of Nazi occupation.

After passing a dyke and bridge cross Klasztorne Lake, formerly known as Grzybno. On the left, on the other side of a smaller lake part, you can notice a silhouette of the Collegiate Church of the Assumption of the BVM, a former Carthusian monastery church.

Then the route for some time runs parallel to lake’s shores. We have the opportunity to see how winding are roads leading to the Mirachowskie Forests. Beautiful beech forest covers steep slopes of the Kosie Hills, which are higher than 260 m. We pass the hills to get to Prokowskie Chrósty, a settlement, which was established on the site of state-owned Prussian forests during the 19th century.

To Prokowo follow an avenue of old trees. The settlement was founded by the Teutonic Knights and for a long time belonged to the monastery in Kartuzy. Up to nowadays there are many well-maintained buildings from the turn of 19th and 20th century. Leaving the village, cross the tracks of a disused railway line from Kartuzy to Lębork and Łeba founded in the early years of the 20th -century. Surprisingly, in the 70s express trains from Wrocław were still using it.

In village Mokre Łąki our road joins a road from Łapalice. The area between the two villages was famous for deposits of grey clay used for manufacturing brick and ceramics. Just before entering the forest on the left side we see a hill called Dzéwcza Góra (Virgin Mountain) connected with the legend about virgins from a manor in Mokre Łąki.

Maidens from Mokre Łąki

Once maidens from a manor in Mokre Łąki decided to go dancing on Saturday. During the event they were under the delusion of devils and did not want to return to attend a Sunday mass. In consequence, as a form of punishment, they sank into the ground together with their infernal companions.

An uphill road after leaving Mokre Łąki leads us into the forest. Soon after follow bends among beechwood forests and drive downhill to cross the dyke on Łąkie Lake, one of the most impressive in Kashubian Switzerland. It is relatively easy to miss, while driving your car fast, yet 100 years ago it was one of favorite destinations for tourists wandering in the area. Finally, drive into fields around Sianowo. The road to the right leads to a nearby village Kolonia, a typically linear settlement, very rare in Kashubia. Such unusual arrangement stems from settlement’s history. In 1800 Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm III gave the German settlers from Baden and Württemberg a strip of forest covering the area of approximately 5 km^2. They established a settlement originally known as Wilhelmshuld (in German ‘Wilhelm’s grace’). Many of them quickly become Kashubians.

From the upland on which Kolonia is located, descend into the Łeba valley. On its slope is located a small village Sianowo. On the left side pass a pilgrimage square and a wooden Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

After passing the Damnica river enter Staniszewo located on the next hill, a village where Kashubian language and traditions are still being cultivated. Previously it was a common belief that witches live there. There were cases when local people were afraid of driving through on a cart, and many men were afraid of marrying a woman from Staniszewo. Perhaps it was somehow connected with nearby Łysa Góra over Osuszyno Lake, which probably used to be a place of pagan cult.

While leaving Staniszewo it is worth taking a look at a picturesque deep valley of the Łeba river and its opposite slope where the Mirachowskie Forests already start. We are going down to the river – to Strysza Buda. On the right side are closed buildings of a former mill. It is one of many which existed in the region until at least the 16th century. Today nearby the mill functions trout farming. Since several years Strysza Buda is famous for the Kashubian Miniature Park. In 1906 in this village, formerly known as Dolne Mirachowo, was born Jan Trepczyk, a prominent writer and Kashubian poet, the author of one of the two tracks which are regarded as Kashubian anthems – Zemia rodnô (Fatherland).

After leaving Strysza Buda the road rises again and leads to Mirachowo. On the left side pass a post-evangelical church of St. John the Baptist, on the right are buildings of the former manor farm. In the centre of the village, on its main square, is a Starost’s Manor and keepsakes from the heyday of the Mirachowski District Starosty.

The Mirachowskie Forests

This forest complex covers over 7000 hectares between Sianowo, Miechucino, Sierakowice and Linia. It is a part of the former Puszcza Kaszubska (Kashubian Primeval Forest) which greater part is located west of the Mirachowskie Forest and south Lębork and Słupsk. As early as in the 16th century documents mention huge wood resources in this area, however the Mirachowscy Starost were in charge of forest management and evaded its exploitation. During the 17th century, the area of local forests was depleted considerably due to the development of glassworks. When in the 19th century planned forest management began to be implemented, the process of draining precious wetlands and introducing alien trees species such as Douglas fir, spruce and larch was undertaken. Despite those damaging efforts the Mirachowskie Forest are nowadays the most valuable natural area of the Kashubian Landscape Park and treasure of the central Kashubia.

Already in 1916 under the Prussian Partition in forests surrounding Mirachowo have been established reserves for protecting tooting-ground of capercaillie. Currently on the terrain of the Mirachowskie Forests over 600 hectares are being under the highest form of protection. The terrain of reserve comprises mainly wetland habitats. The contemporary existing drainage network is slowly being removed and former wetlands are being restored.

From the crossroads in the centre of Mirachowo drive towards Strzepcz. On the left side are wetlands of former Mirachowskie Lake, which has been drained in the mid-19th century. After passing the bridge on the Mirachowska Struga turn right.

Cross a wooded valley and enter the village Nowa Huta established in the mid-17th century as a settlement in glassworks vicinity. On the right side of the road is one of few surviving examples of Kashubian wooden architecture.

A stone thrown by a devil

There is a legend connected with The Devil’s Rock nearby Nowa Huta. It tells a story of a devil who during a single night had to build a bridge across the lake for gbur (Kashubian for ‘host’) living in the vicinity in exchange for his soul. When farmer’s wife noticed that the devilish bridge is almost finished she went to wake up a rooster in her farmstead. It crowed, announcing the arrival of the day, at the very moment when the last stone was supposed to be placed in the proper place. The devil dropped the stone on the lake’s shore and a chain sustaining the rock has left a mark on its surface.

After passing signs at the end of the village, turn left (signpost ‘Kamienne Lake, Devil’s Rock’). The hill offers magnificent views over the Łeba valley in the north. After 1.5 km reach Kamienne Lake in Kamienna Góra. A meadow at the edge of the lake is covered with boulders, among them is one of the largest in Pomerania – Diabelski Kamień (literally: Devil’s Rock). Its circumference is 17 meters, height 3 m and length 5 m. Visitors claim that the lake looks best on a sunny day at dusk, resembling Świteź Lake. Both the lake and adjacent areas belong to a nature reserve Żurawie Błota (which literally means Crane’s marshland).

From Kamienna Góra return to Mirachowo the same way but before the bridge over the Mirachowska Struga turn right (direction: Bącz). After 300 meters, turn right again, into Do leśniczówki street (direction Pałubice). The road in certain parts is gravel and leads among multi-species forests stands. Nearby Forester’s lodge go off the main road to reach the car park and tourist station Lubygość. It is a good starting point for hiking to a secluded lake of the same name. A hike in the basic variant will take approximately 2 hours.

From the parking follow a cobblestoned road into the forest. Via sharp turns it leads to Lubygość Lake surrounded by beech forests, which as a complex is a part of nature reserve. Unlike in the case of most ribbon lakes water there is brown which is the outcome of decomposition of falling leaves and leakage from peat bogs adjacent to the lake.

Pass the lake and turn left an unmarked road leading parallel to the edges of Lubygość. About 250 meters away, in a niche on the tunnel valley’s slope we notice rock columns and roofs. It is a sign that we reached the Mirachowskie Grottos. It is advisable to stay cautious and not enter the cave as the land is still slipping and the threat of collapse is considerable. The nearest is ‘Shelter with Columns’, consisting of stone slabs forming a roof which leans on one large and several smaller rock columns. A little further is ‘Oval Shelter’, where under a large sandstone-conglomerate slab a sizeable cavity was created. The Mirachowskie Grottos were discovered in the late 50s and 60s during exploitation of sand. Possibly another rock forms are hidden in the depths of the slope.

Caves on Kashubia

Kashubia is a region with the second-largest concentration of caves on the Polish Lowlands. Three caves are located precisely on the terrain of Kashubian Switzerland. How those fairly stable cavities in the depths of the earth were created? At the end of the Ice Age sands and gravels were deposited in various places by water from the melting glacier. Masses of water circulating in the sediment contained locally lots of dissolved calcium carbonate, which under favorable conditions precipitated and cemented sands and gravels. In such a conditions columns and sandstone-conglomerate slab were created and subsequently exposed due to human or water intervention.

From grottos the trip continues along the lake. After passing the second seasonal stream a path traversing the slope goes right and up. It leads us to a remembrance site (marked by a commemorative plaque and cross) dedicated to the soldiers of the Secret Military Organization ‘Griffin Pomorski,’ who on 25th September 1943 died here during a raid conducted by 60 Gestapo soldiers. Nearby is a replica of the ‘Ptasia Wola’ bunker built during the war by local forest rangers. You can enter it but inside a flashlight is a must. At first dozen or so then just a few partisans resided in ‘Ptasia Wola’. During the raid two of them came out of the bunker to satisfy physiological needs. It saved their lives. Four people were killed, the other, also from the neighboring, at present non-existent bunker, managed to escape.

From the bunker to the forester’s lodge return the same way.

Alternative route

Hikers with well-developed sense of direction can continue the trip following a red walking trail. A little more than one kilometer from the bunker is a viewpoint Szczelina Lechicka. It offers views stretching over Potęgowskie Lakes hidden in a deep tunnel valley. Return to the forester’s lodge via the red trail along the southern shores of the lake and following a cobblestoned road.

From the parking nearby the tourist station Lubygość return to the road and turn right. A long fragment runs on the edge of a huge nature reserve ‘Kurze Grzędy’ (on the left). A small exit leads us to the village of Kamienica Królewska. Here turn right in the direction of Wejherowo. Leaving -Kamienica turn right again (direction: Kamienicki Młyn). The road leads through upland embankment between Junno and Białe Lakes. Parking is within 2 km. From that spot you can climb to a viewpoint on Zamkowa Góra. It offers commanding view of six lakes in the northern part of the Mirachowskie Forests. From left to right those are: Kamienickie, Junno, Białe, Czarne, Odnoga and Potęgowskie Lakes.

Return to the parking and the centre of Kamienica Królewska where we drive in western direction to the road 214. The trip ends in Sierakowice, where one can visit, among others, St. Martin’s church and the Museum of the Sierakowicka Land in the building of the Commune Culture Centre.

Rezerwaty przyrody Lasów Mirachowskich

‘Jezioro Turzycowe’ Reserve (11,39 ha) was created in 1959 to protect the only, at that time, Pomeranian site of few-flowered sedge. In Poland the plant occurs only in mountains and Pomerania, Warmia and Mazury. After cutting down forest on the lake’s edge and constructing drainage sedge the plant unfortunately died out. Currently efforts are being undertaken to reintroduce the species. A red walking trail leads to the reserve.

Reserves ‘Kurze Grzędy’ and ‘Staniszewskie Błoto’ (107.70 and 130.41 ha) were created as early as in 1916 in order to protect tooting-grounds of the Europe’s largest ground-feeding bird – capercaillie. Unfortunately, on Pomerania this species became extinct during the 20th century. Nowadays, in both reserves are undertaken attempts to restore original and adequate irrigation of habitats. Moreover, the objective is to restore open bogs, which at present are overgrown by birch and swamp forest. A black walking trail leads to both reserves and Staniszewskie Błoto can also be admired from the Mirachowo – Miechucino road.

Reserve ‘Leśne Oczko’ (31.66 ha) has existed since 1990 and is designed to preserve poor dystrophic lake with typical zonal system of vegetation and picturesque raised bogs. It is a habitat for three strictly protected plant species: Marsh Labrador tea, round-leaved sundew and stiff clubmoss.

Reserve ‘Lubygość’ (54.60 hectares) since 1962 protects an unusual glacial lake, in which plant production is based on matter getting into the lake from outside (mainly falling leaves). Around the lake are poor communities of natural beech forests. There exist three species of plants typical for upland and mountainous regions: northern firmoss, Veronica montana, a fern – Blechnum spicant. Worth noticing here are sandstone-conglomerate grottos nearby the northern shores of the lake. Tourists can reach the reserve by following a red hiking trail from the forester’s lodge in Mirachowo.

Reserve ‘Szczelina Lechicka’ (41.32 ha) was established in 1990, covering the area around Kocenko Lake, especially beech forest patch growing on acidic and fertile soil. By the lake there is also a small alder (wet or marshy alder woods). A red walking trail from the forester’s lodge in Mirachowo or Kamienicki Młyn leads to this beautiful landscape reserve.

Reserve ‘Żurawie Błota’ (Crane’s Mud) (109.13 ha) was established in 1990 and covers Kamienne Lake, which quite recently become lobelia lake. A rare plant species exists here – water lobelia – which number decreases at present. However, the lake and the surrounding mosaic of forest and bog habitats is still a nesting place for wading birds – crane and solitary sandpiper.

Reserve ‘Żurawie Chrusty’ (21.82 ha) was also established at the end of the 20th century. It protects marshes communities surrounding a poor mid-forest peat lake. There are four strictly protected plant species: two species of forkbeards, round-leaved sundew and Marsh Labrador tea. An educational trail from Mojusz and Mojuszewska Huta lead to the reserve.

Trail of Kashubian traditions

Route: Żukowo – Przodkowo – Kartuzy – Chmielno – Sierakowice – Mściszewice – Hopowo – Żukowo

Length: 120 km

Owing to attachment to tradition, language and faith Kashubians despite numerous turmoil of history managed to preserve their identity. This tour offers a view primarily of the Kashubian arts and crafts. Thus, the trail reaches the birthplace of Kashubian embroidery in Żukowo, goes back in time thanks to the private museums and, finally, allows to see a variety of traditional Kashubian folk art and methods of transforming it into modern design.

The route can start at any point yet, the description starts from Żukowo. This city situated in the middle of the Kartuzy-Gdańsk road is one of two places in Kashubia, where the Kashubian embroidery has developed (in Kashubian: kaszëbsczi -wësziw). Embroidery-decorated items are exhibited in a Parish Museum at Church of the Assumption of the BVM – a former Norbertine’s Convent. It is also worth visiting the temple itself due to its extremely valuable decorations.

Kashubian embroidery – exhibits in Parish Museum in Żukowo, photo Studio Berda, photo arch. Studio Berda

From Żukowo follow signs into the direction of Gdynia (national road 20). Among modern buildings developing into this direction, the dominant one is the Church of Divine Mercy completed in 2006. Its silhouette refers to the Neo-Gothic churches built in Pomerania hundred years ago.

We get to Miszewo. All enthusiasts of regional cuisine will be tempted by the -offer of a regional restaurant Mùlk in nearby Miszewko serving among others, typically Kashubian turnip soup on goose (wrëkòwô zupa na gãsënie). At the crossroads in Miszewo turn left into the direction of Przodkowo. On the right side pass situated in a deep valley a ribbon Kczewskie Lake. In Przodkowo turn to Czeczewo and go to another village Kawle Dolne. After 2.8 km from the roundabout in Przodkowo turn left again (signpost ‘Kawle Dolne’), then take the first road left, to Czesław Bielicki’s farm.

From Convent to becoming widely available – the origin of Kashubian embroidery

During the period from the 13th to the 19th century in the vicinity of Norbertines’ Convent apart from novitiate functioned also a secular school. Maidens from noble families, as well as daughters of the townspeople and Kashubian gburs (wealthy farmers) attended the school. (A similar school existed at the Benedictine monastery in Żarnowiec on the northern Kashubia). In addition to reading and writing, sewing and embroidery was taught there as well.

In those times convents and monasteries fulfilled the role of a cultural centre where, by means of contacts with other European monasteries and trade, knowledge and experience were constantly being exchanged. Due to this fact Kashubian embroidery motifs could mix with patterns from Turkey, Italy, Spain, France and the Netherlands. There is also no denying that the overall image of embroidery was highly affected by Kashubian folk art.

Initially, multicolored embroidery was a decoration typical for vestments. Since the 20s dark bonnets embroidered with gold and silver thread have probably been the only secular element of clothing decorated with colorful embroidery. It is believed that the remaining pieces of clothing were embroidered using white thread. Unfortunately, the white folk embroidery did not survive until nowadays.

The origins of modern Kashubian embroidery date to the beginning of the 20th century. At that time lived Teodora and Izydor Gulgowscy, marriage of passionate ethnographers and founders of an ethnographic museum in Wdzydze. Mrs. Teodora, a painter educated in Berlin, using primarily materials collected during her husband’s research, has worked out their own colorful embroidery patterns. She has set up an embroidery club and taught residents of Wdzydze the art of embroidery. Later, on Kashubia appeared more centers of embroidery; each of them was creating its own design.

Szkoła Żukowska. (The Żukowska style of embroidery) Marianna Okoniewska, a student of the last Norbertine from Żukowo, taught her granddaughters – Jadwiga and Zofia Ptach how to embroider. In the 30s of the 20th century sisters were in charge of an embroidery club. They were not only referring to the typically monastic patterns, but also designing their own using colours specified by Teodora Gulgowska. The Żukowski style of embroidery is currently the most popular in Kashubia, and such motives are applied not only on fabrics. Among the predominant colours are three shades of blue.

Heritage Park of Technique (pol: Skansen Techniki) – the name was given by the owner – shows huge collection of various historic items which have been collected since 1999. A considerable part of the exhibition consists of cars and machines. A real gem among them is Ford A year 1929 made in the USA. A curiosity detail is a trace of a bullet on car’s body. Next to is, among others, steam engine from 1924 used for cutting wood and threshing, several historic motorbikes and a carriage. The outdoor collection is complemented by, among others, 200-year-old harrows and other agricultural machines, as well as an ambulance and helicopter. Moreover, the museum’s owner has constructed two buildings. One of them is a cottage moved here from nearby Załęże. Cottage interior is restored to resemble fittings from the mid-20th century. Mr. Bielicki, inspired by buildings existing nowadays in Wilcze Błota in Stara Kiszewa Commune, has also built a forge. Its interior offers an impressive collection of blacksmith and shoemakers tools. Tourist can also see turntables, from which the owners passion has begun, as well as a harmony and two harmoniums, which the owner plays very well. Collection in this private museum grow and evolve constantly, so it is worth coming back from time to time.

Kawle and dispersed single farmstead settlement

This kind of settlement is typical for the central Kashubia. There are numerous isolated hamlets consisting of one or several farms. On Kashubia they are called pùstczi (singular. pùstka). Their formation was primarily associated with metallurgical settlements – huts were constructed in the vicinity of forges. When in the 1st half of 19th century peasants were finally enfranchised and estates underwent land allotment, hosts frequently obtained land located far from the village, so they built their houses nearby the fields, on pustkowiach (literally: empty spaces).

With the latter process is connected the term Kawle encountered almost exclusively on Kashubia. In the Kashubian language the word kawel once referred to a stick, item to be drawn or a long, narrow strip of field. With the course of time, the word signifying such a strip of land became the name of entire hamlet, and when changed its size considerably – the name of entire village. Today the word kawel is being primarily used in a sense ‘fate, destiny.’

Bielickowo – Heritage Park of Technique and Kashubian Heritage, Czesław Bielicki, Kawle Dolne 7, phone: 601636448, www.bielickowo.pl; no fixed opening hours, it is the best to make an appointment in advance

From the heritage park follow the same way to Przodkowo. On the left pass a beautiful Neo-Gothic church of St. Andrew from 1878, which interior offers late Gothic sculpture of the Virgin Mary. Nearby Museum of Fire Prevention has recently been renovated and is a unique institution in the entire voivodeship.

From Przodkowo a winding road leads to Kartuzy. While driving we pass Grzybno which for years has been developing around a watermill as a settlement of the Carthusians monastery. The mill was powered by the small Klasztorna Struga, which nowadays flows via culvert under the road just before the entrance to the forest.

Violinist from the Klasztorna Struga

There is a legend connected with the Klasztorna Struga. It tells the story of a musician who has made a pact with the devil in order to become the best violinist in the world. After many years he dueled here with the devil in disguise of another musician. Unfortunately, the violinist has drowned in water of a suddenly swollen stream.

Now arrive to Kartuzy. Nearby the main square is a dominating building of the 19th-century church of St. Kazimierz, as well as tenement houses from the late 19th and early 20th century. It is worth visiting the complex of post-monastery buildings built by the Carthusians. Moreover, feel invited to visit the Tourist Information Centre which hosts an exhibition of the contemporary Kashubian costumes.

Kashubians in traditional clothes, photo P. Kowalewski

It is highly advisable to make a stopover and visit the Neubauer Gallery which is the first store selling everyday items decorated with motifs of modern embroidery. In the ‘Design’ section you can buy interior design elements such as lamps, paintings and clothing while in the ‘Folk’ section are available traditional products or stylised to folk.

Galeria Neubauer FOLK Kartuzy, Jeziorna 6a/2, Kartuzy, phone: 58 7368899, 586946209, www.sklep.galerianeubauer.pl, multicolor@home.pl;

Another interesting place is established in 1947 the Franciszek Treder Kashubian Museum. Exhibitions in the museum are divided thematically. On the ground floor one can see, among others, the remains of old ‘dłubanki’ (Kashubian, singular: czôłno), a boat made from a single trunk, formerly widely used, shoes for a horse (Kashubian: Klumpë) and impressive collection of hives.

On the first floor old movable toys are bound to arouse your interest. Their design is based on mechanical gears. Next to them are masquerade costumes worn at Christmas time while walking around Kashubian villages.

Equally interesting are the so-called kluki (Kashubian: klëka), a specific sticks with important messages once used by village administrators and passed from neighbor to neighbor. Beside is a collection of contemporary Kashubian embroidery, including an array of bonnets embroidered with golden and silver thread.

In the next room dowry chests are sure to catch your attention. Many of them are ornamented by colorful floral patterns. (Teodora Gulgowska while giving rise to the modern school of embroidery in the early 20th century derived inspiration from the traditional Kashubian furniture ornamentation). In the next room are benches and beds constructed in an unusual way – they can be folded to accommodate a greater number of sleeping household members.

Leaving the museum, it is worth paying a visit in a forge, where original blacksmith equipment from Bazyli Dąbrowski’s workshop in Borek near Sulęczyno have been gathered. Most impressive of all exhibits is a huge bellows.

Franciszek Treder Kashubian Museum, Koś-cierska 1, Kartuzy, phone: 58 6811442, muzeum@muzeum-kaszubskie.com.pl, www.muzeum-kaszubskie.pl;

From Kartuzy head towards Sierakowice and then Chmielno to get acquainted with the art of Kashubian pottery. In Chmielno currently are two ceramics workshops. In the Kashubian Ceramics Museum originally designed dishes, deriving inspiration from 250-year tradition of the Necel family are being produced. The second workshop – Genius Ceramics – has existed for over 30 years and manufactures everyday objects, including pots, bowls, jugs and candlesticks, mostly exported to Sweden and Germany.

Ceramika Genius, Akacjowa 18, Chmielno, phone/fax: 58 6842347, 602730085, genius@geniusceramika.pl, www.geniusceramika.pl.

Probably no other church has such a Kashubian decor like the church of Saints Peter and Paul in Chmielno dating to 1887. In the 50s of 20th century Wacław Szczeblewski has painted polychrome with motifs from Kashubian embroidery on the ceiling. Among the symbols associated with the Trinity and the Eucharist might be noticed a griffin – a mythical animal that is the emblem of Kashubia. Moreover, benches and confessionals are ornamented with typically Kashubian motifs. Nave’s walls are decorated with candlesticks manufactured in Necel’s workshop.

From Chmielno return to Garcz and follow signs to Sierakowice. A winding path crosses again and again a disused railway line Pruszcz Gdański – Kartuzy – Łeba built in the early 20th century. Following a sharp bend go round Reskowskie Lake and reach Miechucino. On the left is the source section of the Łeba river. Leaving Miechucino enter the Mirachowskie Forests which cover hills, reaching up to 271 meters above the sea level. On the right pass villages Mojusz and Karwacja. The last name in Polish means Croatia – a country at the Adriatic coast and was recorded in documents already in the 2nd half of the 18th century.

After reaching Sierakowice on the right side there is a Commune Culture Centre (abbreviation in Polish: GOK) which houses the Museum of Sierakowicka Land. It was founded over 20 years ago when employees of the institution due to advertisements among the local community have gathered an impressive collection of memorabilia. In the rooms on the first floor have been gathered several hundred exhibits related to former Kashubian household. In addition to furniture and utensils a lot of different tools can be found here: those used for processing flax (to make linen), wool and wood. On the ground floor is the tourist information centre.

Commune Culture Centre in Sierakowice, Museum of the Sierakowicka Land, Kartuska 27, Sierakowice, phone.: 58 6816214, 58 6847602, gok@sierakowice.pl, www.gok.sierakowice.pl.

Bernard Sychta (1907–82)

A priest, linguist, lexicographer, ethnographer and playwright. Born in a multi-children family in Puzdrowo near Sierakowice. He was ordained a priest in Pelplin and in the 30s of the 20th century worked as a chaplain in a psychiatric hospital in Starogard Gdański. At this time have been written the majority of his plays. Nowadays, the most popular among them is Hanka sã żeni (1935) which literally means ‘Hanka gets married’. During World War II he was hiding in the Tuchola Forest and simultaneously collecting research materials to be used in his publications. His Master and Ph.D. thesis were submitted in 1945-46 at the University of Poznań and described folk culture of Kashubians and Borowiacy. Later, among others, he taught at the seminary in Pelplin. Sychta’s greatest achievement is Słownik gwar kaszubskich na tle kultury ludowej (Dictionary of Kashubian dialects on the background of folk culture), (1967-1976). Until nowadays, this 7-volume publication is an invaluable source of information for linguists specialising in the Kashubian language and serves as a priceless tool during the process of creating modern Kashubian vocabulary.

Alternative route

While still in Sierakowice, it is worth going to located among lakes Kamienica Królewska. There is Tadeusz Zaborowski’s pottery workshop. The owner treats manufacturing ceramics as a combination of lifelong passion and work. In the workshop you can see, order or buy traditional and modern products, both wheel-thrown and cast. Apart from the usual crockery it manufactures also flower pots, lanterns and vases. In order to get to the workshop at the crossroads in the village centre turn towards village Linia. After driving less than 500 meters, at the ramification drive downhill to the left into Wrzosowa street. The length of the journey from Sierakowice in both directions: 16 km, total travel time: 25 minutes.

Tadeusz Zaborowski, Wrzosowa 6, Kamienica Królewska, phone: 503 120 032; visit after prior arrangement

From Sierakowice head further towards Słupsk, follow a winding downhill road and reach Puzdrowo. At the crossing turn towards Kościerzyna (road 214). Just after the bend on the right is an old chëcz (Kashubian: ‘Cottage, house’), the birthplace of the most prominent researcher of the Kashubian language and Kocievian dialect – priest Bernard Sychta. It is commemorated by a stone with a commemorative inscription in the Kashubian language in front of the house.

Puzdrowo is close to Tuchlino located over the Słupa river, which has its source nearby. We enter now an upland area called Pagóry Kamienickie. After less than 5 km reach Mściszewice where are two major attractions. The first is Kaszëbsczi Króm (Kashubian: ‘Kashubian store’) on the right side at the entrance to Mściszewice from Sierakowice. Tourists can purchase not only souvenirs and traditional handicrafts but also Kashubian delicacies.

Kaszëbsczi Króm, Kaszubska 1, Mściszewice, phone: 724856615;

At the main crossroads, over Mściszewickie Lake is wooden chapel of Our Lady, constructed by village’s late resident and folk sculptor – Czesław Birr. Creative activity is continued by his wife Sylwia Birr. In her atelier she runs worksop and create handicrafts.

Sylwia Birr, Mściszewice, Kartuska 11, phone: 668294387

Leaving Mściszewice the terrain becomes more flat. The soil here is very rocky which is why people used to joke that the land gives birth to stones more than corn. In Klukowa Huta turn towards Kartuzy and in Borucino towards Kamienica Szlachecka. On kamienickie pùstki (Kashubian: ‘wybudowanie, scattered settlement’), is located a private museum called Warkòwniô w Cibùlowie (Kashubian: ‘Workshop in Cybulowo’). In order to reach it from the village centre follow signs to Ostrowo and then turn first street left into Rolnicza street.

Mr. and Mrs. Cybula have arranged the museum on their own yard. In a shed, adjacent to the barn, is a bread oven (-opportunity of ordering self-baked bread). It -moreover fulfills the function of an outdoor creative studio which occasionally hosts workshops and demonstrations of braiding and stone sculpting. In the regional hall have been collected many items that once fulfilled the role of Kashubian cottage facilities, including all kinds of tools, and... over one century old piano. The host is pleased to tell their story.

Kazimierz Cybula, Rolnicza 10, Kamienica Szlachecka, phone. 58 6843224, 667059844.

From Kamienica Szlachecka return to Borucino and drive through Brodnica Górna and Ostrzyce to Wieżyca. After reaching the national road 20, turn towards Kościerzyna. After 500 meters stop at the Kashubian Folk University. The building dates back to the late 19th century, originally fulfilled the role of a tavern yet after the war became seat of the Forest Inspectorate. The University is located here since 1982 and since 2006 houses the Council of the Kashubian language, which, among others, establishes and issues opinions concerning rules of spelling as well as standarises vocabulary especially in those areas which the Kashubian language is entering at present. On the ground floor is a folk art gallery. Masterpieces from Kashubia and Kociewie created during the open air painting workshops have been gathered here. Under Wieżyca you can also admire sculptures as well as glass and oil paintings.

Alternative route

A highly recommended place for enthusiasts of folk sculpture is visit in Trzepowo – 15 km from Egiertowo. An extremely picturesque road to the village leads through Przywidz, where you should head towards Kościerzyna and after more than 3 km reach the village of Trzepowo. Here our attention is drawn by Zenon Kosater’s estate, where he set up a gallery of his masterpieces. Since his health has declined more than a dozen years ago, he is developing his sculpting talent. He sculpts in linden wood shrines in various sizes, saints, heroes from legends and fairy tales. A characteristic feature of these works is brevity in terms of form and carelessness about the details, which brings surprising results. Mr. Zenon organises sculpture workshops for volunteers. The length of journey from Egiertowo in both ways: 30 km, total travel time: 35 minutes.

Zenon Kosater’s Gallery, Trzepowo 16, phone: 58 682 52 68; visit after prior arrangement

Now head towards Żukowo. High-lying hills offer commanding views, especially around Kartuzy. On the way pass Rybaki, Starkowa Huta and Egiertowo. All these villages have been built on site of steelworks existing here in the 17th and 18th century. It is worth stopping in the first village after Egiertowo – Hopowo where after turning the first street right we can admire a well maintained, half-timbered chëcz of the Walkusz family. Opposite the house is a forge dating to 1927. Jerzy Walkusz is a folk artist sculpting mainly in wood. What is more, he manufactures the so-called devil’s fiddle (Polish: diabelskie skrzypce) – a traditional musical instrument. His cooperation with other sculptors from Pomerania has resulted in creating flat-carved Stations of the Cross, placed nowadays on the terrain of his estate. The centre of Calvary in Hopowo is a 12-meter chapel constructed from local stones, the heaviest of which is over 10 tons. The lower shrine’s floor holds a statue of St. Wojciech while the upper a statue of Our Lady of the Rosary. The building is crowned with a cross that adorned the altar during the visit of St. Pope John Paul II in Sopot.

Going further towards Żukowo, pass Wyczechowo and Borcz. During land allotment in 1928 a small group of settlers from Galicia, among others, from the area of Żywiec came to this terrain. Their descendants, who with the course of time became Kashubians, live here until today. In Borcz pass nearby a former manor house and manor farm of the Hoene family. Nowadays it houses a hotel and restaurant serving regional dishes. The restaurant’s specialty is goose meat which is highly popular in Kashubia.

From Borcz it is less than 10 kilometers to the centre of Żukowo where the trip finishes.

In the mist of prehistory and Early Middle Ages

Route: Kartuzy – Babi Dół – Kamienne Wesele – Przywidz – Uniradze – Węsiory – Mściszewice – Borzestowo – Chmielno – Zamkowa Góra – Kartuzy

Length: 140 km

Central Kashubian forests and fields hide many mysterious traces – specific ‘postcards’ sent centuries ago. Until today farmers encounter strange clusters of stones or dark, carbonaceous parts of soil with numerous sinters, which are remnants of former steelworks, ironworks or glassworks. However, most peculiar among those archaeological findings are prehistoric structures namely burial mounds and stone circles. Two cemeteries on the central Kashubia – in Węsiory and Trątkownica – are unique on a European scale. Therefore, feel kindly invited to follow the footsteps of ancient people and legends associated with them.

Stone wedding

Once, when a newlyweds and their wedding guests went for a wedding ceremony to a church in Kiełpino, a cook hired by them instead of preparing a wedding banquet, was chatting with neighbors. There were still plenty of things to be done when she saw that the wedding guests already return. She said: ‘Oh, damn it, you shall get petrified!’. This curse resulted in the fact that all the upcoming guests turned into boulders.

The trip starts with a visit in the Kashubian Museum (see also page 59) in Kartuzy. On the ground floor in a hall dedicated to former fisheries you can see several boats called ‘dłubanki’ (Kashubian: Czôłna) that were accidentally taken out from lakes surrounding Kartuzy. Although those exhibited in the museum are copies and come from modern times, boats of this type were the first used in these areas. Later, due to the lack of adequately large trees fishermen were forced to construct a boat with bottom made of logs and sides of planks.

From Kartuzy head towards Gdańsk via Dzierżążno and Borowo. In Żukowo famous for the post-monastery Norbertines complex of buildings turn into the direction of Kościerzyna. Pass Glińcz, enter the forest and reach Babi Dół.From here you can take a walk through the Radunia Ravine – the longest gorge section of the river. Its slopes reach 40 meters and during spring at the bottom of the valley is still ice, even though everywhere around it usually melts.

In Babi Dół is one of the best maintained Early Medieval fortified settlements in the area – on Zamkowa Góra. In order to get there, while driving into the direction of Kościerzyna and passing over the ravine, turn right into an unmade road. Its right branch leads to the gorge and ravine of Radunia.

The settlement was discovered in the 19th century, yet so far only its surface has been archeological researched. Most probably, undulating maidan is surrounded by even 3-4 meters tall ramparts and a moat. Attention!– Zamkowa Góra is located in the immediate vicinity of a nature reserve the Radunia Ravine. Within its area tourists are allowed to move only via marked trails.

From Babi Dół it is close to the village Borcz where is a manor complex of the Hoene family dating to 1945. Opposite the manor turn right into a linden alley. More than 2 km from the crossing turn right again to a gravel road Babi Dół – Wyczechowo, which after 400 meters brings you to burial mounds and stone circles in Trątkownica. This prehistoric cemetery was called by the locals Stone wedding (Polish: Kamienne Wesele), due to allusions to a legend of a petrified wedding procession. Such type of legends used to be an attempt to explain the existence of strange boulders unnaturally placed in complete wilderness.

The archeological site in Trątkownica consists of five large mounds covered with stone mantle and surrounded by a wreath of boulders and over 60 flat graves. Circles with barrows are located on the south side of the Kiełpino – Borcz road, while the remaining graves are scattered on both sides. Through one of them crosses a path. Likewise in the case of cemeteries in Odry, Węsiory and Grzybnica, in Stone Wedding flat graves are spread on vast surface. Those archeologically researched are located approximately on 0.75 ha and distance between them spans to 18 meters. The majority are skeletal graves where bodies used to be placed on a wooden board or in a coffin buried with head towards the north. Cremation burials are in minority, they assumed burning remains on a funeral pyre and putting them into cavity in earth or a clay pot – an urn. Due to the fact that in the skeletal graves the dead were usually
buried together with precious objects, the discovered metal monuments – most frequently bronze buckles – are from that type of graves. Many graves bear traces of digging up by robberies, most likely within short time after the funeral. The robbers were sometimes unable to find all valuables; in this way until the archaeological research have survived e.g. two gold rings lying under a skeleton in one of the graves.

Moreover, among the graves have been discovered sites of manufacturing steel marked out by clusters of granite flakes. Specialists are inclined to think that the steles forming stone circles have already been hewn on the site during burials. In the southern part of the site, near the forest, have been discovered several furnaces, which most likely mark cemetery’s boundary. Lack of bones parts and traces of digging fire fills indicate that it is unlikely to be the place where the bodies were burnt.

The Stone Wedding is still waiting for comprehensive examination. For the time being, it is assumed that the cemetery served its function between the last decades of I century and mid II century. Small groups were still burying the dead at the end of III century.

From Trątkownica return to the national road in Borcz and follow it to Egiertowo. From this highly situated village head towards Przywidz via one of the most scenic highways of Kashubian Switzerland. Pass the village Kamela which likewise Egiertowo was established as a metallurgical settlement in the mid-17th century. In those times from the nearby forests materials for the production of tar, wood tar, potash and glass were mined in substantial quantities.

While passing the valley behind Kamela, at the same time we cross the pre-war border of the Free City of Danzig. Then leave Roztoka and Klonowo Górne and start 1,5 kilometer downhill road to a deep tunnel valley where Klonowo Dolne is located. This spot allows for admiring picturesque views on the opposite side of the tunnel valley – slopes reach substantial height (even 278 meters) and are in this regard just slightly lower than the Szymbarskie Hills. Hills are overgrown by impressive beech forest. Pass a small lake on the right and climb another hill in order to get to Przywidz. There, at first drive into the direction of Gdańsk. While driving, on the right pass a Neo-Gothic evangelical church of Our Lady of the Rosary. On the left is a complex of former manor building of the von Jen family dating to the 2nd half of 19th century. At present it houses a bed & breakfast. Pass the former manor park, turn right (direction: Pruszcz Gdański). Drive closer to the lake’s shores and then to the other side of the bridge. Right after the bridge, on the left there is a place where you can leave your car and go for a walk or a bike ride along southern shores of the lake.

Przywidzkie Lake is not particularly large (112.5 hectares, maximum depth 12.2 m), yet highly picturesque. Its shores are mostly covered with beech forests and the tunnel valley’s slope rise up to 70 meters above water surface. On the left is the only island on the lake. Its steep slopes are overgrown by nearly 200-year-old beech and oak forest – a few centuries ago such forest were common in central Kashubia. Moreover, centuries ago a fortified settlement existed here which is confirmed by numerous archeological finds. Since 1945 the entire island has been protected as a nature reserve.

Within 1.8 km from the parking the road turns sharply and the path leads to a peninsula. It is a sign that we reached a fortified settlement. Moat and embankment separate the site from peninsula. Deep in the forest is a slightly smaller embankment which most likely was the first defense line in the case of attack. Walk might be continued following a path around Przywidzkie Lake (together approximately 9 km).

Return from Przywidz to Egiertowo and drive towards Kościerzyna. On the way pass village Rybaki located at the foot of Wieżyca. In 1896 this town, at that time still known as Fiszerowa Huta, has become famous
for its unusual find. A local farmer while plowing has discovered an old vessel with coins, ornaments, ingots, metal sheet and silver wires. Unfortunately, the peasant was unaware of the findings value and used one of wires to repair scythe, some objects were lost by children while playing. Judging by the surviving Arabic, Danish, English, German and Polish numismatic coins, this wonderful treasure was hidden after 1024.

Until nowadays, no archeological finds from peak of Wieżyca have been discovered, although there are hypotheses claiming that due to its height Wieżyca used to be a place of pagan worship.

From Wieżyca via Szymbark get to Gołubie. Nearby the village were found traces of a distinctive settlement area around Raduńskie Lakes. Most probably it dates back to 1200 BC and later also in the 13th century when the borders of the so-called ‘Ziemia Pirsna’ (Pirsna Land) reached here.

Drive now to Pierszczewo located 2 km east of Gołubie. The road offers scenic views of the surrounding Patulskie and Ostrzyckie Lakes and the Ostrzyckie Hills located to the left. Take the gravel road 1.5 km northwest of Pierszczewo and reach Zamko-wisko Lake. Despite its small area (7 hectares) lake’s depth is greater than 17 m. On the shore is a boulder placed by the Association taking care of the site. The boulder reminds that nearby the lake used to be the main fortified settlement of the so-called Pirsna Land. Its remains tower 25 meters above the water surface. A winding road leads to its flattened top which used to be maidan. Most probably it was destroyed during fights between Świętopełk II the Great and his brothers Racibor and Sambor in the 1st half of 13th century.

Pirsna Land

In the documents mentioned as Terra Pirsna. In the 13th century it covered the area of almost 600 km^2 in the vicinity of the present day Kościerzyna while on the north stretched to Ostrzyckie and Raduńskie Lakes. This intriguing name might come from type of land which was as dry as pierść (which means dust) or the surname Pierzch, the family of Pierszczewo village founders. Originally the center of Pirsna was in a fortified settlement over Zamkowisko Lake. However, when Prince Swietopełk II from the Kashubian dynasty of Samborides subjugated more territories in the Tuchola Forest in the mid-12th century a decision concerning moving the main fortified settlement to Kościerzyna was undertaken. In 1284 the contemporary sole ruler of Gdańsk Pomerania, Mestwin II, 10 years before his childless death offered Pirsna to his cousin – Princess Gertrude. In 1312 she has sold the land to the Teutonic Knights.

From Zamkowisko Lake head to nearby Uniradze. About 3 km from Gołubie turn off the road to Stężyca into a gravel road indicated by the forest rangers with number 15. After approximately 2.5 km reach the parking with information boards marking the beginning of an archaeological didactic trail. There are three stops presenting graves from various historical periods.

The most recent research conducted by specialists from the University of Warsaw and the Archeological Museum in Gdańsk indicate that within the circle of Raduńsko-Ostrzyckie Lakes most probably are more than 3000 barrows grouped into three clusters in the Forest Inspectorates Przewóz and Uniradze. Once burial mounds were also noted on the nearby fields, however since the 19th century they began to disappear. At that time easily accessible stone could be sold for the construction of new roads and buildings.

What is a burial mound?

Burial mound is a kind of grave-shaped mound, a conical embankment, in which is buried a dead body or human cremated remains. Barrows might vary in terms of diameter and height. There were cases when apart from land for their construction people used wood and stone. The custom of constructing mounds was common in the Central Europe primarily from the Neolithic period (since 5.5 thousand BC) to the Iron Age (XIII century BC). During the Roman and Early Medieval period such burials were quite rare, but on the Kashubian Lake District there are many more cases than in any other region of Poland.

Within the area of contemporary educational path the dead were buried for over 2,000 years. It means that the discovered tombs and burial mounds are remnants of several various peoples. The oldest find is a mound of the Lusatian culture (1200-550 BC). All findings suggest that in that period in the vicinity of Raduńskie Lakes existed a distinctive settlement area. There were cases when graves were used for burials also in the subsequent centuries by representatives of other cultures.

Along the path has also been marked a box-shaped grave connected with the Pomeranian culture (500-125 BC), which originate from a group of the Kashubian Lusatian culture. A stone-earth mound from the Early Middle Ages (10-11th century) also deserves our attention.

From Uniradze drive through Stężyca to Klukowa Huta. It is a good starting point for exploring stone circles in nearby Węsiory.

Less than 4 km northeast Klukowa Huta is Mściszewice. Nearby the village are another burial mound. It is hard to believe that just 100 years ago over 350 graves existed here. At that time begun a research which was continued after the 80s. At present the Association of the Mściszewice Village Development is engaged in saving burial mounds and popularises local prehistoric heritage.

Archaeological culture

While carrying out excavations, in the majority of cases specialists are unable to conclude with whose remnants they are dealing with. However, there are also frequent cases when a group of artifacts from certain era and a particular territory are strikingly similar to each other and occur in a similar surrounding. A group of such concomitant archaeological forms is called archaeological culture; it is however not obligatory to be linked with the history of any human community.

Marked burial mounds are located 700 meters west of the village. In order to get there follow a road which is marked by information boards. Most burials are from the Late Bronze and Early Iron Age (VIII century AD) and are associated with a group of the Kashubian Lusatian culture. A considerable part of the barrows are enclosed by a stone ring at the mound base.

Return to Klukowa Huta and head towards Kartuzy and then Miechucino. Behind the village Borzestowo, before the last information boards of the village, on the left side is a parking from which you can explore one of the most picturesque fortified settlements in Kashubia. It was established on a hill called Garecznica, which from one side is limited by the Borzestowska Tunnel Valley with Długie Lake while from the other side by a ravine. Archeological research conducted in 1970 confirmed existence of a fortified settlement of the Pomeranian culture dating to 1000-650 BC. On the hill might be noticed traces of four lines of ramparts with moats in between, which from the easiest available north side created defensive system. On a dyke constructed by the moat used to be a wooden gate leading to the settlement (5.8 × 1.6 m) – its burnt remains have been discovered.

Legends about Garecznica

Legends from surroundings of Borzestowo tell a story of a fortified settlement inhabited by rulers oppressing local community which sank into the ground. It happened after a woman carrying water to the castle uttered words full of grief and anger which were cursing the place. Allegedly for a long time there was a deep hole in the place of former castle. Whatever was thrown into it was thrown back, but without the outer shell. Another legend says that an army sleeps inside the mountain; the soldiers are supposed to wake up when the Kashubian language will be seriously jeopardized.

From Garecznica through Miechucino and Garcz get to Chmielno to see another former fortified settlement. On a small hill called Grodzisko between Białe and Kłodno Lakes, was a fortified settlement inhabited from the 9th to the turn of the 13-14th century. Probably from the 30s of the 13th century it was the centre of Chmieleńska Castellany. At that time, there might exist a brick and wooden tower serving residential and defense purposes because during excavations the remains of a stone building have been discovered. The castle was a seat of Damroka Princess, the daughter of Świętopełk II. Little is known about her, fully confirmed are only some perfunctory information concerning her death recorded in the annals of Żukowo and Oliwa monasteries. The rest is left to suppositions and legends. The fortified settlement in Chmielno was most likely damaged during the invasion of Margraviate of Brandenburg on Gdańsk Pomerania in 1308.

The legendary princess Damroka

One of numerous legends about a maiden from the Kashubian dynasty of Samborides tells a story according to which contrary to her father’s will princess has founded a church in Chmielno. When Świętopełk II found out the truth about his daughter’s deed, he ordered to burn the temple down, nail Damroka to the golden church door and later throw her into Białe Lake. The bells from the ruined temple rolled into the water following princess’ body. Every seven years, on the first day of Easter before the sunrise, all bells emerge from the lake. Only one girl managed to attract the smallest of them to the shore.

Another legend connected with Damroka tells the story of Zamkowa Góra nearby Kartuzy, where once in a fortress used to live a knight-robber. Since the most beautiful princess did not want to accept his marriage proposal, he kidnapped her. Three days after that incident Damroka was rescued by swans, which on their backs carried her to Chmielno.

To Kartuzy, where the trip started, go back along nearby Zamkowa Góra, located between Smętowo Chmieleńskie and Kartuzy. This beautiful road runs along a lakeless tunnel valley and leads to the forest. Well-preserved beech forest patch is protected in Zamkowa Góra reserve. An educational trail leads to the peak. This hill looks picturesque from the shores of Ciche Lake.
According to a local folk tale, from time to time, an enchanted princess appears above the lake and begs to save her castle.

Ciche Lake is located on the outskirts of Kartuzy where the trip finishes.

Sunken castles

One of the most popular themes in Kashubian mythology is a sunken castle occurring in legends concerning almost each fortified settlement. Usually a castle while sinking into the ground buries a wicked ruler and a ghost of Princess asks a wanderer passing over the lake or river to carry her through water to the castle. Such a deed should save inhabitants of the castle from hell. A daredevil typically is doomed to failure due to various obstacles which make him unable to gain some distance to his fears and dash his hope.

The best proof how deeply the topic of a sunken castle is rooted in the Kashubian culture is the fact that it has been woven into the plot of the most important Kashubian epic: Żëcé i przigòdë Remùsa (The Life and Adventures of Remus) by Aleksander Majkowski.

Post-monastery churches in the central Kashubia

Route: Żukowo – Przyjaźń – Kiełpino – Goręczyno – Kartuzy

Length: 70 km

The Carthusians and the Norbertines who for over 400 years inhabited the central Kashubia, have left numerous traces. The most vital are churches that are now the oldest monuments in the District. While visiting them, tourist might admire masterpieces of religious art equally impressive to those from the renowned Catholic churches in Europe but also examples of humble and peasant Baroque monuments.

The tour in the monastic footsteps starts in Żukowo, where is the 13th century Norbertine’s Convent. To its south, after crossing the Radunia river, one can visit parish cemetery with the 18th century chapel of St. John of Nepomuk. It was built on the foundations of a former building, which commemorated martyr’s death of 10 Norbertines killed in 1226 during the Prussian invasion. In the outer wall of the chancel is a sculpture of St. John of Nepomuk. Interior furnishings include 18th century Baroque altar. A little further, over the Radunia, we see substantial, brick buildings of mills from the early 20th century, erected on the site of convent mills operating since the 13th century.

After leaving Żukowo head towards Gdańsk, turn right in Lniska and cross bridge over the Radunia. On the right there is a small private hydroelectric power plant. The valley of Radunia widens here, creating ‘Basen Żukowski’. Arrive to the upland, pass currently (2014) disused railway line Pruszcz Gdański – Żukowo. The section from Pruszcz to Niestępowo is made available by a Draisine Railway functioning in nearby Kolbudy.

The next town on the itinerary, a little forgotten village Przyjaźń, offers two interesting monuments. In the centre stands a Gothic church of St. John. The previous church was built here as early as in the 13th century. Probably at the beginning of the 14th century Przyjaźń became a filial church of Żukowo parish and remained its part until 1457 when Casimir IV Jagiellon granted Przyjań with neighboring Niestępowo to Reinhold Niederhof – the Mayor of Gdańsk. The church was freed from the power of monastery finally in the 17th century when Sigismund Augustus gave Przyjaźń as a deposit. The lease-holders from Gdańsk after becoming Protestants established here favourable clergymen. In the following years until 1922 the church was under patronage of successive village owners. Catholics have regained the temple after the end of World War II. In the 70s the decaying church has undergone extensive renovation and was rebuilt almost from scratch. Unfortunately, during the process of remodeling valuable pieces of equipment were destroyed. There are no longer the original larch wood ceilings and elements of choir balustrade. Inside, however, one might admire the late Renaissance pulpit and Gothic sculptures from the former rood beam on the nave’s walls and part of the main Baroque altar.

Roman Catholic parish church of St. John the Evangelist in Przyjaźń, Spacerowa 1, Przyjaźń, phone: 604127845, www.parafiaprzyjazn.com.

Continue the trip via neighboring Skrzeszewo which in the 19th century also partly belonged to the von Kleist family. Opposite the school turn sharply right. Drive through a hamlet called Piaski and reach the forest. On the left, hidden among trees are decaying remains of the 24th Air Defense Missile Squadron base abandoned by the army in 1993.

Follow the national road 20, get to Egiertowo and continue towards Kartuzy. Magnificent panoramic views stretching to the west give way to the dense Hopowski Forest. In November 1939 during the so-called Intelligenzaktion 47 previously arrested people were killed here. Executioners were Germans from Selbstschutz organisation (literally: ‘Self-defense’) who come from the Kashubian area as well – in some cases an executioner killed his own neighbor.

Winding downhill road leads to Somonino. The descent offers picturesque view of the Radunia valley and neighboring village Goręczyno. Within certain distance the Szymbarskie Hills might be noticed as well. During the last decades the village has developed considerably and does not resemble settlement which for centuries was a monastic farm of the Carthusians. It was located on the banks of the Radunia, where nowadays are shops and an industrial facility.

Go further and swerve towards Kiełpino. The village once constituted a grange of the Carthusian monastery. Nowadays, the only remains of its monastic past is the church of St. Michael, built simultaneously with the monastery church in Kartuzy.

Roman Catholic parish church of St. Michael the Archangel in Kiełpino, ks. Antoniego Arasmusa street 2, Kiełpino, phone: 58 6812345, biuro@parafiakielpino.pl, www.parafiakielpino.pl.

The second of the nearby churches founded by the Carthusians is located in Goręczyno. In order to get there, go back to Somonino, drive through and on the way pass railway station buildings dating to the times of constructing the railway line in the area – to 1901 and 1929.

A village adjacent to Goręczyno is Sławki. Here, on the left side is a historic house of a sawmill owner dating to 1915. After passing the railway crossing reach the Radunia river, which winds among forests and meadows. From this spot it is not far to Goręczyno.

The well preserved layout of Goręczyno should be categorised as a clustered village, pointing to the fact that settlement’s development was carried out along several streets. Moreover, the church-presbytery complex deserves our attention. Parking is in the courtyard which is entered via historic gate. Opposite the church, in a former farmhouse, is a branch of the public library and tourist information.

Roman Catholic parish church of Holy Trinity and All Saints, Kasztelańska 60, Goręczyno, phone: 58 6841722, pgoreczyno@diecezja-pelplin.pl, www.parafiagoreczyno.pl. Tourist Information, Kasztelańska 66, Goręczyno;

From Goręczyno drive to Ostrzyce up the Radunia river, which meanders on the left side, getting closer and further the road. The estate Ostrzyce became the property of Carthusian monks in 1422. In those times village heirs, Albrecht and Stefan, were fed up with disputes concerning joint fishing on Ostrzyckie Lake and they finally decided to bequeath the entire property to monks. This lake, formerly called Gołubskie, is considered one of the most picturesque in Kashubia. In the centre of Ostrzyce is a parking from which you can go down to a small pier offering a view of the hills surrounding the lake.

Further, the trail leads nearby Złota Góra and Ręboszewo. The second village, similar to Zawory, since the 13th century belonged to the Norbertines from Żukowo.

Soon we reach Kartuzy where the tour finishes. We stop at the parking at Klasztorna Street, near the post-monastery Carthusian complex. After sightseeing it is worth going to Klasztorne Lake via picturesque Philosophers Avenue (Polish: Aleja Filozofów), which used to be a place of meditation for the monks from the Carthusian monastery. Over the road to Sierakowice (Wzgórze Wolności street) rises Spiczasta Góra. At the top there is another monument connected with the Carthusians – Chapel of the Holy Cross (see also page 114) built by them in the 17th century.

Kashubian Switzerland for children

Route: Pępowo – Strysza Buda – Tuchlino – Kistowo – Węsiory – Wieżyca – Szymbark – Żukowo

Length: 136 km

Central Kashubia is perfect for family holidays – favourable conditions are ensured by a rich array of guest houses and agritourism farms. In recent years the range of attractions has been substantially expanded, which make also the youngest pleased with stay in Kashubian Switzerland. These attractions not only allow to have fun, yet also hold educational values.

The trip can start at any point along the route, however the description begins in Żukowo. This relatively young city has long-standing history connected with the Order of Norbertines. It is worth visiting the former Covent Church with masterpieces of sacred art dating to the Gothic to Baroque periods as well as the Parish Museum documenting the history of contemporary Kashubian embroidery.

From Żukowo drive towards Gdynia. On the right pass a massive war memorial commemorating soldiers killed in March 1945. Follow a winding uphill road and get to the viaduct over the Gdynia – Kościerzyna railway line; in pre-war times that connection was used for transporting coal from mines in Silesia to Gdynia. After passing the viaduct turn right (signpost ‘Pępowo’). One kilometer further, on the roundabout, drive again to Pępowo and after 800 meters arrive to the museum Volkswagen Gallery in Pępowo.

The museum of Volkswagen brand is the only of such kind in Poland. Over 40 authentic vehicles – icons of motorisation including old-time beetles and the so-called Cucumbers (Polish: ‘ogórki’) have been gathered. Special part of the exhibition plays a constantly expanded collection of cars miniatures on a scale of 1:64 to 1:18. The museum was created quite unexpectedly when current owner’s grandpa bought a beetle and his son bought a ‘cucumber’. Yet the idea of establishing a gallery appeared in 90s when the family set up a garage and gained space for collecting vehicles. The hosts do their best to ensure that all cars stay in working order. Every year the Gallery organises rallies for car enthusiasts, as well as other recurring or occasional events.

Galeria Pępowo, Armii Krajowej 50, Pępowo, phone: 58 681 82 05, 604 704 050, fax: 58 681 79 98, info@vwmuzeum.pl, www.vwmuzeum.pl.

From Pępowo return to Żukowo, and then head towards Kartuzy. In Borkowo it is worth turning towards a village Rutki, where is the oldest of more than a dozen hydroelectric power plants on the river Radunia. It has been functioning continuously since 1910.

To the next village Borowo drive along Karlikowskie Lake. Moreover, nearby are two other picturesque lakes – Sitno and Głębokie where bathing is allowed (attention – there are no guarded lidos).

We enter Kartuzy through the Kartuski Forest which is dominated by beech and surrounds the city from all sides. In Kartuzy initially head towards Słupsk. On the square of St. Bruno of Cologne – founder of the Carthusian Order and city’s patron – go towards Wejherowo, then Mirachowo. Drive through Prokowo and Sianowo with a wooden church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary and finally reach Strysza Buda with its extraordinary attraction: the Kashubian Miniature Park . In addition to the exhibition of Kashubian and world most famous buildings miniatures all young travelers might also be interested in mini zoo, Fairytale Land showing figures from popular fairy tales, House of Fears or distorting mirror room. There are also food stands and at an additional fee tourist can organise a bonfire.

From Strysza Buda drive to Mirachowo where it is worth stopping for a while to admire a former Starost mansion, manor chapel and church of St. John the Baptist. In the village head first to Wejherowo and then Lina. Just after the bridge, turn left (direction: Bącz). On the right side stretches buildings of former brickworks and behind is a hamlet with an interesting name Palestyna. This is one of approximately 70 village names transferred to Kashubia from various corners of the world.

During downhill drive to the next village – Bącz, on the left are commanding views of Bąckie Lake, which formerly covered area at least two times larger. In the mid –19th century attempts were made to drain its water and set up pastures on obtained land.

Further the road is narrow yet highly picturesque. Trail leads through Mojuszewsko-Mirachowska Upland. All villages in the area have developed from housing estates of workers producing tar and glass, hence their specific names such as Bącka Huta. We arrive to Mojusz and follow the road 211 towards Sierakowice. At the entrance to that large village, on the right side, is the Commune Culture Centre, which on the first floor accommodates the Museum of Sierakowicka Land exhibiting collection predominantly linked to ethnography. In the centre is highly unique wooden framework church of St. Martin which has recently been restored and regained its original form.

From Sierakowice continue into the direction of Słupsk, in neighboring Puzdrowo turn towards Kościerzyna. Pass Tuchlino located on the banks of Słupia river and arrive to the Educational Park ‘Exotic Zoo – Kaszuby’. This roofed facility gives you opportunity to admire rare and extraordinary in our climate zone species of spiders, fish, reptiles, birds and mammals, including python and a boa constrictor, chameleon or Ara parrot. The exhibition has been prepared so that the little ones can not only watch the animals but at the same time get to know them better. Tours on the exhibition are always guided which allows children to touch some of the animals. The guinea pigs and rabbits which – with permission – can be fed arouse great interest. In a special room you can also watch nature films in standard or the 3D version. The best idea after finishing sightseeing is visiting Ara Café and a gift shop. Moreover, there is a playground for children.

Zoo – Egzotyczne Kaszuby, Tuchlino 50b, phone: 600 342 128, plagajac@wp.pl, www.zookaszuby.pl.

From Tuchlino return to Puzdrowo via road 211 and drive into the direction of Słupsk. After more than 4 km reach Gowidlino – home village of Danuta Stenka Kashubian most renowned actress. In the village turn to Sulęczyno. Go further, pass the 400-hectare Gowidlińskie Lake, through which flows the Słupia river. This lake offers the most favourable conditions for sailing throughout Kashubian Switzerland. Then pass Gowidlinko – typical holiday part of Gowidlino, followed by village called Lemany. Its name comes from a social group called ‘lemani’ who during the I Rzeczpospolita in Pomerania were in terms of social rank located between wealthy farmers (Polish: gburzy) and the nobility.

Now, leave the tunnel valley of Gowidlińskie Lake and enter hilly upland. What is worth visiting in Kistowo is a small water park in Kiston hotel. Upon arrival to the village, opposite the fire station, turn right (direction: Kistówko) and soon reach the destination. The water park offers two 21 meters long sports tracks, a recreation swimming pool with water jets, water playground as well as dry and wet saunas. Additional entertainment is bowling, where everybody can try hand in bowling on four bowling tracks.

From Kistowo drive to Sulęczyno. A monument which deserves attention there is the 19th century manor house of the Łaszewski family, former owners of the Sulęczyńskie estate. The building at present houses a hotel with restaurant and has a small lido nearby. Over Węgorzyno Lake tourist can enjoy communal lido which is guarded during the holiday season. Along shores of the lake leads a nature and educational trail.

From Sulęczyno head towards Kartuzy. Drive between Węgorzyno and Guścierz Lakes via pine forest and reach Węsiory. Just 2 km south of the village are burial mounds with stone circles associated with the Goths tribe. Children will be particularly interested in visiting a fortified settlement giving the opportunity to take part in games referring to tribe’s history. In a wooden mock-up visitors get the chance to learn the basics of old crafts. What is more, tourists might participate in a battle with the Romans or travel around Europe on a huge map. Every year in July Biesiada Gocka (Goths’ Feast) is organised there. Apart from enthusiasts of blues, jazz, folk or classical music concerts, also reenactment groups reconstructing life in the ancient times and Early Middle Ages take part in the event.

Gród Gotów (Fortified settlement of the Goths tribe), Węsiory 63a, phone: 607 109 203, info@goci.wesiory.pl, www.goci.wesiory.pl; prior arrangement is advised.

Now follow the road to Kartuzy. In Łączyno cross the dyke on Raduńskie Lake called the Kashubian Gate. It offers views of a long tunnel valley which bottom is filled by a lake. Finally, reach Złota Góra – an impressive viewpoint. From now on to Kolano follow the scenic Kashubian Road .

In Ostrzyce tourists can make use of two lidos located in road’s vicinity. Moreover, in the village function numerous rentals of pedal boats and other water sports equipment. An interesting offer for family is a cruise on Ostrzyckie Lake by a pleasure boat called ‘Stolëm’. It takes passengers from a pier in Ostrzyce, leads via interesting scenic places, sails around Grabowski’s Island and reaches the destination from which you can see the peak of Wieżyca.

Żegluga Stolëm, information: phone: 58 684 18 77,
www.ustolema.pl;

Alternative route

One kilometer south of the centre of Ostrzyce is settlement Węgleszyno. Nowadays, known mostly due to the Recreation Centre ‘U Stolëma’. Nearby the Kashubian Road, opposite the lido and camping you will find a mini golf course. Nearby the hotel which is situated slightly above (Na Koszowatkę street) is a ropes course with three routes varying in difficulty. The easiest, 150 meters long, is designed for beginners and children and offers 10 obstacles. There is no denying that the nearby mini zoo called Kaszëbsczi Chléw and a playground will also arouse children interest.

Recreation Centre ‘U Stolëma’, Droga Kaszubska 8a, Ostrzyce, phone: 58 6841877, www.ustolema.pl.

We reach village called Kolano. Here on Ostrzyckie Lake is a guarded lido. Nearby, on a high panoramic hill is a hamlet called Niebo (literally: Heaven) with Studfarm Kolano. It offers, among others, a short ride on pony’s back. Access to this Stud is quite complicated, so in case of any problems it is better to leave the car at the parking by the lake. In the vicinity is also the second similar stud: Studfarm Pod Klonem, which offers similar attractions for children.

Studfarm Kolano, Wieżyca-Kolano 74, phone: 58 684 38 93, stadninakolano@wp.pl, www.stadninakolano.pl. Studfarm Pod Klonem, Wieżyca 12, phone: 602 664 968, 608 460 557, winko9@wp.pl, www.koniewiezyca.pl.

Drive through Kolano, leave behind the railway viaduct and turn right towards Krzeszna. After less than 400 meters turn right again to a hamlet called Piekło(literally: Hell). Nowadays, almost no one remembers this name, as the majority of visitors call it Koszałkowo. It is the oldest open ski resort in Kashubia and the most popular as well. The slope is teeming with life also during the summer season when it changes into a Sport Amusement Park. Younger holidaymakers will be happy to visit the part with inflatable water slides, water bullets or carousel on plastic. The older can ski on a tricycle, roll down in a plastic ball (zorbing) or try their hand at navigating the summer variant of snowboard – mountainboard. In addition there is a restaurant nearby.

Tourist, Manufacturing and Service Company ‘Koszałka’ Ireneusz Koszałka, Wieżyca 32, phone: 883368184, www.wiezyca.pl.

Return to the Kashubian Road and follow it for approximately 700 meters, then turn right towards Szymbark. In front of you stretches impressive, sharp uphill road and magnificent views of Ostrzyckie Lake are left behind. Drive through gentle upland hills and arrive to Szymbark. At the chapel, turn right and then immediately left into Szymbarskich Zakładników street, which leads to The Regional Centre of Education and Promotion – CEPR. All small holidaymakers will surely get interested in a ropes course offering four routes of varying difficulty. Many children will also willingly visit the extraordinary Upside Down House, as well as the Kashubian World of Fairy Tales (entrance paid extra) which is highly stimulating for imagination. This amusement park presents stage versions of Polish fairy tales and the little ones can meet various fictional characters like Reksio, Miś Uszatek and Bolek i Lolek. Tourist can also come across a Talking Tree which reads Kashubian stories. Moreover, on the CEPR’s terrain everybody can try hand on a mini fishery, catch a fish themselves and prepare it later. A personally minted coin with the image of local tourist attractions will surely become a nice souvenir from the entire stay.

Regional Centre of Education and Promotion, Szymbarskich Zakładników 12, Szymbark, phone: 512043759, cepr@cepr.pl, www.cepr.pl;

From Szymbark to Żukowo return the national road 20 through Egiertowo.

Windmill on Góra Sobótka nearby Ręboszewo, fot. J. Lipiński

Other attractions worth visiting with children

Chmielno – Kashubian Ceramics Museum: gives the chance to try your hand at working on the potter’s wheel.

Ręboszewo – a mill on Wzgórze Sobótki: in front of the cafe is an enclosed playground and inside the windmill you can see an original mechanism which powers the quern-stone.

Sikorzyno – Wybicki Manor House: this visit is a perfect opportunity to have fun in a plant maze located in manor’s vicinity.

4. Active recreation

Marked hiking trails

Impressive diversity of Kashubian Switzerland landscape makes it an ideal place for both shorter and longer hikes. While preparing the schedule it is worth taking into consideration marked hiking trails which total length in the area is now almost 250 km. Nearly all trails are long-distance, frequently connecting Tricity with areas in the central Kashubia. They allow to comfortably and safely reach the most interesting viewpoints and attractions hidden far from the main roads. Keep in mind that trail’s colour is not related to its difficulty, colour differentiation only prevents confusion in orientation. Three-stripes marking of all routes in Kashubian Switzerland is assured by the Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Association. Bear in mind that taking a good tourist map is obligatory. The below descriptions of routes have additional tables indicating distance which facilitate trip planning. Current announcements and additional information can be found at: www.pomorskieszlakipttk.pl.

On the Kashubian Trail, photo iStockphoto.com

Kashubian Trail

Route: Sierakowice – Gołuń

Signs: red

Length: 137,7 km

Probably the most ‘mountainous’ and scenic trail in Kashubia. It links Sierakowice with most fascinating places of the Mirachowskie Forests, leading, among others, to Mirachowskie Grotto and Kamienne Lake. Then winds along the circle of Raduńskie Lakes and viewpoints on the surrounding hills such as Tamowa Góra, Jastrzębia Góra or Koszowatka. The third part of the trail runs along the tributaries of the Wda river – the Rakownica, Graniczna and Trzebiocha in the Tuchola Forest and finally reaches Wdzydzkie Lake. The trail combines numerous typically holiday villages and therefore enables tourists to arrange memorable excursions.

Distances on the area of Kashubian Switzerland

km

SIERAKOWICE, market

0,0

PACZEWO, village

2,3

KAMIENICA KRÓLEWSKA, former railway station

6,7

KAMIENICKI MŁYN, watercourse

7,9

Junno, vacation centre

9,1

Potęgowskie Lake, road from the south

11,6

Kłączyno Lake, culvert

12,8

Szczelina Lechicka, viewpoint

14,3

Lubygość, road to forester’s lodge Mirachowo

16,5

Kamienne Lake, Devil’s Rock

19,0

KAMIENNA GÓRA

19,2

NOWA HUTA, village centre

21,1

MIRACHOWO, crossroad

24,0

Reserve ‘Staniszewskie Zdroje’

26,8

CIESZONKO, crossroad

29,8

The Łeba river, bridge, Dębnica

30,2

SIANOWO, church

31,1

KOLONIA, road

32,6

SIANOWSKA HUTA, centre

34,7

Forester’s lodge SIANOWO, turning

36,1

NOWINY, village

38,5

POMIECZYŃSKA HUTA, crossroad

39,2

SYTNA GÓRA, road to the village

40,5

UCISK, crossroad

41,8

Białe Lake, south shore, crossroad

42,6

SARNOWO, crossroad

43,1

BRZEZINY, crossroad

43,4

PROKOWSKIE CHRÓSTY

44,9

Klasztorne (Duże) Lake, western shore, path

45,6

Klasztorne (Małe) Lake, eastern shore, cape

47,1

KARTUZY, Wzgórze Wolności street

47,9

KARTUZY, Mielenko Lake

48,4

Góra Zielona, western slope

50,9

KOSY, crossroad

52,1

Access to Góra Tamowa

54,1

Rekowskie Lake, south shore

55,1

Lakes Białe – Kłodno, isthmus

56,0

CHMIELNO, centre, crossroad

56,8

CHMIELONKO, the Radunia river

58,0

SZKLANA HUTA, village

61,5

GRZEBIENIEC, road to Ręboszewo

61,2

RĘBOSZEWO, road to Brodnica

62,7

Wielkie Brodno Lake, eastern shore

63,9

BRODNICA DLN, road to east, a cross

67,7

OSTOWO, crossroad

69,2

OSTRZYCE, Kashubian Road

71,6

Góra Trzebińska, viewpoint

73,0

WIEŻYCA, vacation centre Wieżyca

75,0

KRZESZNA, railway station

77,7

PIERSZCZEWKO, road to the Ostrzycki Forest

78,6

reserve ‘Ostrzycki Las’

79,7

access to the boulder (PP no 14)

80,7

Ostrzyckie Lake, southern Shore, western part

81,8

NOWE CZAPLE

83,2

STARE CZAPLE, crossroad

85,4

Zamkowisko Lake, fortified settlement

87,5

GOŁUBIE, road

89,7

Dąbrowskie Lake, north-western shore, cape

90,7

Dąbrowskie Lake, western shore, isthmus

92,7

STARA SIKORSKA HUTA, scattered settlement

95,1

Długie Lake, western shore

96,9

SKORZEWO, crossroad

98,2

Szymbarskie Hills Trail

Route: Sierakowice – Sopot

Signs: black

Lenght: 124,7 km

This is one of trails connecting Tricity with Kashubia. Via little-known districts of Gdańsk it leads to Łapiński Gorge in the Radunia valley. Next through the picturesque Reknica valley among small peaceful villages surrounding Przywidz. Then via Borcz reaches cemeteries and stone circles in Stone Wedding and goes towards the Szymbarskie Hills and Wieżyca. Through Szymbark leads to Gołubie in the vicinity of a Botanical Garden, and later to burial mounds in forests around Uniradze. Then it follows scenic hills in the homeland of the Kashubian strawberry near Długi Kierz and enters the Mirachowskie Forests offering reserves ‘Staniszewskie Błota’, ‘Kurze Grzędy’ and ‘Jezioro Turzycowe’.

Distances on the area of Kashubian Switzerland

km

SIERAKOWICE, market

0

Sosnowa Góra, edge of the forest

2

Former forester’s lodge Sierakowice (Gajek)

2,9

BUKOWO, chapel

6,9

reserve ‘Jezioro Turzycowe’

8,8

BĄCZ, road to Mirachowo

11,8

Bącka Struga, bridge

13

BÓR, forest crossroad

15

ŁĄCZKI, crossroad

17,3

MOJUSZ, former railway station

19,6

MOJUSZEWSKA HUTA, clearing (descent from tracks)

20,6

DŁUGI KIERZ, village

26

WYGODA ŁĄCZYŃSKA, crossroad

28,4

ŁĄCZYŃSKI MŁYN, scattered settlement

29,3

ŁĄCZYNO, crossroad

30,7

road Kartuzy – Bytów, Kashubian Gate

32,9

ZGORZAŁE, road to Stężyca

35,1

Forest Inspectorate UNIRADZE

38

MESTWIN, turning

39,4

GOŁUBIE, road to the railway station

41,5

Kniewo Lake, north-east shore

44,2

POTUŁY, crossroad

45,6

SZYMBARK, road (to Stężyca)

47

road to Szymbark, parking

48,6

Wieżyca, 328,6 m.a.s.l.

49,3

WIEŻYCA, railway station,  railway crossing

51,8

RĄTY, road to Goręczyno

55,5

SŁAWKI, railway station, railway crossing

56,8

GRANICZNY DWÓR, cross

58,4

SARNI DWÓR, orester’s lodge

60,8

NOWY DWÓR, crossroad

62

WYCZECHOWO, road to highway

63,9

TRĄTKOWNICA, g. Patoka, bridge

65,5

Barrow cemetery Borcz

66,2

BORCZ, school

69,8

MAJDANY, road bend, Evangelical cemetery

73,8

KRYMKI

74,9

MICHALIN

75,8

Głęboczko Lake

78,3

HUTA DOLNA

79,2

MARSZEWSKA GÓRA, road

82,2

MARSZEWO

83,1

CZAPIELSK, church

87

Łapińskie Lake, stream

89,3

ŁAPINO KARTUSKIE, road to Widlino

90,5

Ząbrskie Lake, north shore

91,4

ŁAPINO (Dolne), former railway station

92,1

Kartuski Trail

Route: Kartuzy – Sopot

Signs: blue

Length: 69,5 km

The trail leads from Kartuzy through a viewpoint called Assessor’s Bench which offers commanding view of entire city. Nearby charming Ciche Lake the trail enters Kartuski Forest and leads to a reserve ‘Stare modrzewie’ (that is: ‘Old larches’). Among several lakes in Mezowo trail leads towards railway station Babi Dół, where it descends into the Radunia Ravine. Passing Żukowo, in which runs near the former Norbertine’s Convent, the trail crosses villages such as Przyjaźń and Sulmin. Finally, nearby shores of Otomińskie Lake reaches Gdańsk in the area of the Tricity Landscape Park.

Distances on the area of Kashubian Switzerland

km

KARTUZY, bus station

0

KARTUZY, Mielenko

1,5

Ławka Asesora (Assessor’s Bench)

2,1

Karczemne Lake

2,2

KARTUZY, Zamkowa street

3

Ciche Lake

3,5

reserve ‘Stare Modrzewie’

8,7

clearing Burchardztwo, crossroad

9

Szczyczno Lake, south shore

10,4

Róże Błoto

11,9

MEZOWO, Mezowskie Lake

13,9

Railway station Babi Dół, viaduct

15,8

Radunia Ravine, footbridge I

18,9

RUTKI, railway bridge

23,3

BORKOWO, PKS (bus station)

24,5

ŻUKOWO, Mała Słupina

25,8

ŻUKOWO, roundabout

26,3

OTOMINO DOLNE, railway tracks

29

OTOMINO GÓRNE, road

29,7

PRZYJAŹŃ, road to Glincz

32,6

NIESTĘPOWO, school

35,7

NIESTĘPOWO, the Radunia river

36,6

SULMIN, gallery

38,4

Stone Circles Trail

Route: Sierakowice – Czarna Woda

Signs: green

Length: 92,6 km

The trail connects two well preserved stone circles in Kashubia. After leaving Sierakowice it initially leads through the Słupia valley, but after passing Mściszewice enters an upland outwash plain, which in the area of Sulęczyno, Klukowa Huta and Kamienica Szlachecka is called Czyste Pola (literally: Clean Fields). Leaving the archaeological reserve in Węsiory, the trail runs among surrounding lakes and leads to the Tuchola Forest. In Lipusz, where tourist might visit a historic mill and the Museum of Country Household, the trail meets the Wda river leading further along its gorge. Among lakes hidden in forest surrounding Wąglikowice the route reaches Wdzydzkie Lake. Then via forests east of the lakes leads to village Miedzno, where crosses the Wda river and reaches archaeological reserve stone circles in Odry. The final section along the Wda river leads to the railway station in Czarna Woda.

Distances on the area of Kashubian Switzerland

km

SIERAKOWICE, market

0,0

DĄBROWA PUZDROWSKA, crossroad

2,2

TUCHLINO, road

4,6

Tuchlińskie Lake, north shore

5,4

RĘBIENICA, crossroad

6,1

WIDNA GÓRA, crossroad

8,8

Trzebocińskie Lake, north shore

9,7

PODJAZY, road

11,0

AMALKA, crossroad

12,0

Okno, culvert

13,4

GLINIEWO, cross

14,4

MŚCISZEWICE, crossroad

15,2

Sucha

17,1

WĘSIORY, road

18,6

Kamienne Kręgi (Stone Circles) cementary

20,5

Długie Lake, western shore

21,6

Czarne/Skrzynka Lake, passage

23,0

NIESIOŁOWICE, crossroad

23,8

crossroad 184,6 (OGONKI)

26,2

Sumino Lake, eastern shore

27,0

Most interesting hiking trips

Mirachowskie Forests. Route: Sierakowice – Mirachowo; signs: red; length: 31 km; time: 1–2 days

Ostrzyckie and Szymbarskie Hills. Route: Sławki – Szymbark; signs: black; length: 10 km; time: 1 day

Around Ostrzyckie Lake and Ostrzyckie Hills. Route: Brodnica Dolna – Gołubie; signs: red; length: 22 km; time: 1–2 days

Radunia Ravine. Route: Borkowo – Babi Dół; signs: blue; length: 6–9 km; time: 1 day

Czyste Pola. Route: Mściszewice – stone circles in Węsiory; signs: green; length: 5 km; time: several hours

Kashubian Switzerland by bike

On the terrain of Kashubian Switzerland have been marked several cycling trails leading mostly via unpaved roads. Due to the presence of accommodation facilities, areas around Kartuzy, Ostrzyce, Szymbark, as well as Przywidz are most suitable as a home base. Experienced cyclists can obviously make use of the other, unlabeled trails.

A major convenience for cyclists is the opportunity of using a railway connection Gdynia – Kościerzyna. It is operated by fast railbuses equipped with facilities for bikes. Each of the 12 stops located within the area of Kashubian Switzerland is a perfect starting point for an interesting tour.

Before leaving it is highly advised to obtain a good tourist map, in order not to get lost in case of problems with orientation. Information concerning bike trails in Kashubian Switzerland are also published on the website www.szwacariakaszubska.com.

Trails around Kartuzy and Chmielno

Castle Bike Trail

Route: Łapalice – Rekowo

Signs: red

Length: 5,4 km

The trail begins at the crossroad of Chmieleńska and Reskowska street in Łapalice. Initially, it leads through hilly countryside with picturesque views of the Kosie Hills and Rekowo Lake in front of us. Steep uphill road leads to the peak of Chochowatka (215 m). On its slope in the 80s was built a contemporary, still unfinished Łapalicki castle, constructed by the artist Piotr Kaźmierczak. From the castle trail winds through beautiful forest paths among beech forests. It ends with a steep descent, which leads to an isthmus between Kłodno and Rekowo Lakes. From that spot it is already quite close to Chmielno.

Chmieleńska Bike Trail

Route: Kartuzy – Kosy – Rekowo

Signs: blue

Lenght: 6,8 km

The trail begins near the Collegiate Church of the Assumption of the BVM in Kartuzy. It leads us to Karczemne Lake where along the newly constructed promenade reaches a viewpoint Assessor’s Bench – the name commemorates Carthusian court assessor Karl Pernin who liked sitting here. The trail runs through the heart of the Kosie Hills to a highly located and picturesque village Kosy. Another forest section reaches trail’s crossroads. The side road marked with hiking trail signs leads to the nearby summit of Góra Tamowa offering commanding view of Chmielno and lakes around the town. The last steep descent brings us to Rekowo. It is less than 2 km to the centre of Chmielno.

Kartuski Nature Bike Trail

Route: Kartuzy – Łapalice – Białe Lake– Pomieczyńska Huta – Kolonia – Sianowo

Signs: green

Lenght: 26 km

The starting point is square in front of the Collegiate Church of the Assumption in Kartuzy. First, follow Klasztorna and then Mickiewicz and Reja streets. On the right side, on the forest edge used to function a narrow-gauge railway, transporting gray clays mined from the surrounding area to a brick factory in nearby Łapalice. The trail winds among fishponds that have been established for breeding fish in the times of the Carthusian Order. Landscape of the Kosie Hills is very varied; full of depressions hiding bogs and dystrophic lakes. The largest of them might be admired while looking down during an uphill road. Convenient forest paths lead to the castle in Łapalice. We pass the centre, tour around east shores of Łapalickie Lake, also known as Garcze Lake, with Dziewicza Góra (literally: Virgin Hill) the subject of legend towering on the north.

Short section of the trail runs along Kartuzy – Mirachowo road and then turns right. On the way pass St. Hubert’s chapel. Drive via forests to the north of Prokowo, reach Białe Lake where during the season is a guarded commune lido. The road rises, reaching a highly situated hamlet called Sytna Góra. This spot offers extensive views to the south. After leaving Pomieczyńska Huta, pass picturesque depressions and enter the forest once more. Another village, Kolonia, is quite different from the majority of villages in central Kashubia. It is in fact a three kilometer long linear village, founded approximately 1800 by the German colonists.

From open upland areas around Kolonia drive down to Sianowo where the trail finishes.

Trails around Ostrzyce and Szymbark

Kaszëbskô Stegna (Kashubian Path)

Route: Szymbark – Krzeszna – Pierszczewo – Zamkowisko Lake – Uniradze – Stężyca

Signs: red

Lenght: 18 km

The trail was marked with the thought of tourists visiting the Centre for Education and Regional Promotion in Szymbark and those who want to arrive to Szymbark by bike. It leads through the Szymbarskie and Ostrzyckie Hills and links numerous attractions. Rich variety of picturesque views of Raduńskie Lakes, as well as pleasant, forests sections, makes the trail worth tourist attention.

Along the way, you can see the historic centre of Szymbark with a Neo-Gothic church of St. Teresa, half-timbered cottage in Pierszczewko, Góra Kamyszki, former fortified settlement Pirsna over Zamkowisko Lake, barrow cemetery in Uniradze and finally historic churches in Stężyca.

The cycling trail ‘Stone circles’

Route: Ostrzyce – Goręczyno – Somonino – Wyczechowo – Kamienne Wesele – Hopowo – Rąty – Ostrzyce

Signs: red

Length: 33 km

Great choice for holidaymakers in Ostrzyce and surrounding area, as well as for tourists arriving by train from Tricity (Line Gdynia – Kościerzyna). It forms a loop and leads from Ostrzyce to barrow cemetery and stone circles in Stone Wedding around Borcz. The route is demanding as there are numerous uphill and downhill roads. However, the troublesome character of cycling will surely by compensated by particularly varied views.

Other sites worth visiting along the trail are: Church of the Holy Trinity in Goręczyno dating to 1639, manor from the 19th /20th century in Wyczechowo and picturesque Trątkownicki Gorge.

Metallurgic trail

Route: Wieżyca (railway station) – Rybaki – Piotrowo – Połęczyno – Kamela – Borcz – Kamienne Wesele (Stone Wedding)

Signs: green

Lenght: 28 km

The trip starts at the railway station in Wieżyca (after completing the trail you can take the train at the stop in Kiełpino). It leads through little-known regions of the Szymbarskie Hills and nearby the pre-war border of Poland and the Free City of Danzig. Almost all villages along the route were established in the vicinity of existing here in the 17th and 18th centuries glassworks and tar works. Along the way it is worth admiring post-evangelical church of Andrew Bobola in Połęczyno, the Hoene family manor in Borcz and burial mounds and stone circles known as Kamienne Wesele (literally: Stone Wedding).

Around Pomieczyno

Pomieczyńska Huta is the starting point of three loop routes with varying lengths:

– Blue Trail (blue signs, length: 6.9 km) leads from Pomieczyńska Huta around Białe Lake.

– Green Trail (green signs, length: 8.2 km) marked among forests between Pomieczyno and Pomieczyńska Huta and near the Base Camp ‘Hejtus’.

– Red Trail (red signs; length: 18.3 km) leads to Łąkie Lake and to Sianowo.

Around Przywidz

Przywidz Commune has marked out several cycling routes enabling cyclists to explore the highly picturesque surrounding. Due to marvelous views during the pre-war period the village was called ‘little Sopot’. In Przywidz there is an opportunity to rent bicycles in two places.

Around Przywidzkie Lake

Signs: red

Length: 8 km

Pleasant and relatively easy trail forming a loop which runs through forest roads parallel to shores of a lake. The trail starts in front of the Commune Office that is Spacerowa street. It provides pleasant coolness during summer heat and at the same interesting views of the surrounding lake. Along the way, you can visit the Early Medieval fortified settlement on one of the peninsulas.

Among hills nearby Przywidz

Route: Przywidz – Pomlewo – Ząbrsko Dolne – Klonowo Dolne

Signs: green

Length: 11 km

The trail starts in front of the Commune Office, on Spacerowa street and finishes at the crossroads of Przywidzka and Głęboka in Klonowo Dolne. This scenic route passes two deeply cut glacial gutters and uplands which separate them. The uphill roads might be difficult at times. Along the way are among others picturesque lakes: Przywidzkie Wielkie, Ząbrsko and Głębokie.

Blue Bike Trail

Route: Klonowo Dolne – Nowa Wieś Przywidzka – Roztoka – Połęczyno – Piekło Dolne – Przywidz

Signs: blue

Length: 15,8 km

A relatively easy trail. It begins over Głębokie Lake, nearby road leading from Klonowo Dolne. From deep lowlands it leads to rarely visited areas of Nowa Wieś Przywidzka and Częstocin with typical for Kashubia dispersed housing called single farmstead settlement. Especially picturesque is the section leading through valley between Częstocin and Przywidz. The trail finishes at the petrol station in Przywidz.

Red Bike Trail

Route: Czapielsk – Marszewska – Góra Huta Dolna – Klonowo Dolne – Piekło Dolne – Trzepowo – Łąkie Lake

Signs: red

Length: 19,6 km

The trail runs primarily through the Reknica and Wietcisa valleys which in their source segments flow in deep valley tunnels. It starts nearby a wooden church of St. Nicholas in Czapielsk with interesting 18th century equipment and finishes nearby picturesque glacial Łąkie Lake.

From Tricity to the heart of Kashubia– Sky-blue Bike Trail

Route: Gdańsk Osowa (railway station) – Chwaszczyno – Warzenko – Tokary – Kawle Dolne – Rąb – Pomieczyno – Hejtus – Sianowo

Sings: blue

Length: 36,5 km

The trail begins at the railway station Gdańsk-Osowa and leads via the northern edges of Kashubian Switzerland. On the way are, among others, Golf Course in Tokary, Czesław Bielicki’s Museum in Kawle Dolne, wooden church of St. Józef in Pomieczyno and finally the Shrine of Our Lady Queen of Kashubia in Sianowo. Although the Blue Trail finishes in Sianowo, the tour can be continued via Kartuski Nature Trail and then other routes.

Bike rentals

Mobilna Wypożyczalnia Rowerów Elektrycznych “Easy Rider”, phone: 605 934 123

Wieżyca: Centrum Aktywnego Wypoczynku Koszałkowo, Wieżyca 32, phone: 696 803 983, www.koszalkowo.pl

Ostrzyce: Ostrzycka Gościna “U Maryli”, ul. Droga Kaszubska 19a tel. 58 6841618, e-mail: biuro@umaryli.pl, www.umaryli.pl

Kartuzy: Kaszubska Wypożyczalnia Rowerów „Na kòle przez Kaszëbë”, ul. Reja 16, e-mail: lukasz.and@wp.pl, phone: 609 797 464, www.rowerykartuzy.pl

Nordic walking trails

Kashubian Switzerland abounds in lakes, forests and fields which encourage various forms of physical activity. One of them is nordic walking which takes advantage of body’s natural movement during walking and additional equipment that is specially designed poles. They help engaging entire body during the march and in result applying correct walking technique engages nearly 90% of muscles. Nordic walking relieves joints and improves endurance, strength and flexibility with optimal effort, which is suitable for almost every age group. It can be a form of rehabilitation, is perfect for Sunday walk or hike. The length of training marches should be planned ahead. While arranging the schedule it is worth taking into consideration trails designated especially for nordic walking. They form a loop and have been marked on ground assuring comfortable and safe march.

More information concerning nordic walking trails can be found at www.szwajcariakaszubska.com.

Trails around Chmielno

Chmielno is a starting point of three loops of nordic walking trails. All set off on the main square in the centre of the village, at the Commune Centre of Culture, Sport and Recreation in Chmielno.

The most demanding red trail (10.3 km) which in half runs via non-paved roads, leads up to the Kosie Hills and castle in Łapalice. The yellow trail (7.3 km) leads to Góra Tamowa and village Zawory, mostly on hard surface. The green trail (7.5 km) leads to Koszkania settlement and along the shores of Raduńskie Lake via asphalt and concrete roads.

Walking poles rental and trainings

Wichrowe Wzgórze – Oaza Zdrowia na Kaszubach, Wichrowe Wzgórze 13, Chmielno, phone: 604 595 130, biuro@wichrowe.info, www.wichrowe.info.

Trails around Kartuzy

Very pleasant trail surrounding Kartuzy, leading through the Kartuski Forest and the Kosie Hills mostly via forest and gravel roads.

All trails begin and finish at a viewpoint Assessor’s Bench, nearby parking (Chmieleńska street). The easiest trail is yellow (5.1 km) which runs almost entirely through forest west of Kartuzy. Towards Smętowo Chmieleńskie, through forests and wide beaten roads runs the red trail (8.8 km). The green trail (8.1 km) overlaps with the yellow trail and leads further into the direction of Chmielno; along the way you can see, among others castle in Łapalice.

Trails around Ostrzyce

Trails have been here marked among the Ostrzyckie Hills between Ostrzyce and Goręczyno. Recreation centre ‘U Stolëma’ in the southern part of the village is a starting point for nordic walking trails in Ostrzyce.

The easiest yellow trail (6.2 km) in major part leads via asphalt and concrete roads. The green Trail (8.5 km) runs mostly along forest roads – nearby Bukowa Góra and a hamlet called Rąty. The most challenging red trail (16 km) covers considerable height differences on varied surfaces.

Walking poles rental and trainings

Recreation Centre ‘U Stolëma’, Droga Kaszubska 8a, Ostrzyce, phone: 58 684 18 77, recepcja@ustolema.pl, www.ustolema.pl.

Trails around Pomieczyno

In a hamlet called Hejtus begin three nordic walking trails around Pomieczyno. They run almost exclusively on gravel and unpaved roads making it a perfect offer for hikers preferring soft ground.

The easiest trail is yellow (5 km), leads through forests around Hejtus. The red Trail (15 km) runs around Otalżyno Lake and winds among scattered hamlets in the surrounding area. The green trail (14.6 km) leads to Sianowska Huta.

Walking poles rental and trainings

Camp Base ‘Hejtus’, Słupia 30c, Pomieczyno, phone: 58 681 53 06, 606 902 887, bazawypadowa@wp.pl, www.bazawypadowa.pl.

Trail around Przywidzkie Lake

Green nordic walking trail starts nearby hotel Kozi Gród in Pomlewo. Its total length is 12.7 km. The trail allows you to reach the centre of Przywidz, leaving a car on parking over the lake nearby Szkolna Street.

Walking poles rental and trainings

Hotel Kozi Gród, Leśników 3, Pomlewo, phone: 601610453, recepcja@kozigrod.pl, www.kozigrod.pl.

Trails around Sierakowice

The majority of trails lead via dirt and forest roads. At the corner of Kartuska and Kościerska streets in Sierakowice, nearby the Commune Culture Centre starts the green trail (8 km). It runs via Kopernika and Kościerska Streets to a hamlet called Janowo and then through Podgórna and Gryfa Pomorskiego goes back to the starting point. In Kamienicki Młyn (near Kamienica Królewska) on a parking at the foot of Góra Zamkowa begins the red trail (7.6 km). It leads through steep uphill road to the Mirachowskie Forest. The third, yellow trail runs around Dworek na Błotach in Załakowo (4.2 km)

Walking poles rental and trainings

Commune Culture Centre, Kartuska 27, Sierakowice, phone: 58 681 62 14, 58 684 76 02, gok@sierakowice.pl, www.gok.sierakowice.pl.

Agritourism Farm ‘Pod Lipą’, Sabina i Andrzej Krefta, Kamienica Młyn 14, phone 691 899 863, www.podlipa.gdan.pl.

Trails around Sulęczyno

A camp base for nordic walking trails around Sulęczyno is hotel Leśny Dwór in Sulęczyno over Węgorzyno Lake. Routes mostly lead on unpaved roads. The longest is the red loop (11.4 km) leading through forests and shores of four beautifully situated lakes: Węgorzyno, Guścierz Duży, Guścierz Mały and Głębokie. Moreover, over Węgorzyno and Guścierz Mały Lakes runs also a shorter yellow trail (5.6 km) which forms a loop. The green trail is 9.5 km long and leads through Bukowa Góra located on the other side of Węgorzyno Lake.

Walking poles rental and training

Commune Culture Centre in Sulęczyno, Zielona Droga 1, Sulęczyno, phone: 58 684 20 57, gok@goksuleczyno.gdan.pl, www.goksuleczyno.gdan.pl.

Trails around Sulmin

Trails around Sulmin have been marked among hills surrounding the village and via part of the narrow Radunia valley – Łapiński Gorge. The beginning of trail is located nearby pitch in the centre of village, next to the fire station. The longer red loop is 10 km long and the shorter yellow 5 km. For the most part they run via forest and dirt roads.

Trails around Żukowo

In Żukowo have been marked two nordic walking trails; both start at the commune stadium (Książąt Pomorskich street). They lead through hills on both sides of the Słupina river. The more difficult red trail (10.5 km) runs to the other side of the valley – to Smołdzino and the shorter green (5.6 km) – to Małkowo.

Nordic walking competition in Żukowo, photo A. Niemiec

Water trails

The upland central part of the Kashubian Lake District forms a specific ‘knot’, from which rivers supplying the Baltic Sea and Wisła river flow in all directions. All have their head section here: the Wierzyca which joins the Wisła nearby Gniew, the Radunia near Gdańsk flows to the Motława, as well as the Łeba and Słupia carrying waters to the Baltic Sea. In their upper reaches rivers are accompanied by numerous lakes, resembling beads wound on a thread. Central reaches of rivers abound in riffles, which for centuries have been used for creating mills and later hydroelectric power stations as well. Every water sports enthusiasts will surely find appropriate offer: from quiet sections of rivers and long lakes to exciting passages leading via gorges.

The Radunia

Major river of central Kashubia and most diverse in terms of character. Its head section is located south Stężyckie Lake. It is 104.6 km long and as it comes to kayaks is navigable for 98 km. In its upper course it frequently joins lakes, flows through dense network of glacial tunnel valleys and links eight lakes of the so-called Raduńskie Circle (Kółko Raduńskie). The central river course consists of several broad depressions called pools, as well as narrow gorges, which are the youngest valley’s sections. From Rutki nearby Żukowo the river is partitioned by eight hydroelectric power stations managed by Energa company (the oldest plant dates to 1910.). Traversing this part may be rather troublesome as it calls for many portages. The lower section of the Radunia is already on Żuławy Gdańskie where it flows into the Motława.

Due to the troublesome character of section to Rutki as well as the fact that currently beautiful, yet difficult stretch in the reserve ‘Radunia Ravine’ is closed for kayakers, we would like to offer a kayaking trip to Trątkownica (Kiełpino). It is highly recommended even for beginners, because it is the easiest section for kayaking trips across entire Kashubian Switzerland. It requires little effort but also leads via one of the three gorges on the Radunia.

Kayaks can be launched in Ostrzyce nearby a former mill. The area adjacent to the river is private, it is advisable to ask the owner of Zielony Młyn guesthouse for consent. The riffle located above might be tricky, so it is better to avoid taking risk. Further, the river meanders peacefully on the bottom of Ostrzycko-Goręczyńska tunnel valley. We enter Trzebno – the last natural lake on the Radunia (area of 2.6 hectares, maximum depth is 4.5 m). On the right side are steep slopes of Koszowatkowska Upland. In case of high water level a weir located below Trzebno Lake might be crossed via narrow flow on the right. In Goręczyno we pass two bridges. Nearby the first is the most convenient place to make a stop. The village gives opportunity to buy drinks and food as well as visit the church of St. Trinity dating to 1639. Here finishes the upper section of the Radunia.

Then the valley widens, the river meanders through meadows and sometimes spills broadly. It offers picturesque views of Somonino Commune. Kayakers successively pass a footbridge, stone railway bridge dating to 1901 and a more modern bridge on the railway line Gdynia – Kościerzyna. Behind a road bridge on the left side is a convenient resting place. The river now flows faster this is where the Somoniński Gorge starts. After passing another footbridge there is a small riffle. Next, in a shady ravine, begins the wildest section of the trail. Gradually the river slows down, flowing now among riparian forest. The valley again slightly expands and pastures and meadows around allow for looking around. The kayaking trip finishes before a road bridge between Kiełpino and Trątkownica on the right side. Further, the river flows through the Radunia Ravine. This is the most challenging, classified as the mountain section and at present is closed.

Equipment rentals and marinas

Kajaki Radunia, Ostrzyce, ul. kasztelańska 2a tel: 586841835, www.kajakiradunia.pl

Kaszubskie Kajaki, Kiełpino – Trątkownica, ul. Raduńska, tel: 791205733, www.kaszubskiekajaki.pl

Camping sites on the trail

Kaszubskie Kajaki, Raduńska, Kiełpino-Trątkownica, phone: 791 205 733, www. kaszubskiekajaki.pl.

Raduńskie Circle (Kółko Raduńskie)

The term was coined by canoeists and denotes a complex of 16 lakes, connected by the upper course of the Radunia river as well as the Czapielska and Gołubska Struga, which together form a loop. Long and deep lakes hidden among high hills offer picturesque views. The trail includes approximately 40 km which is why it is advisable to divide it into two or three days. The tour of lakes, in majority located in the southern part of Raduńskie Circle, might take place without getting out of the kayak. While covering sections in-between the lakes kayakers sometimes paddle downstream, then again upstream.

Any place of the trail might be a proper stating point, e.g. on the eastern shore of Stężyckie Lake. Short, smart section of the Radunia leads to Raduńskie Lake, which in total is 15.6 km. The reservoir is divided into two parts: Raduńskie Górne (area 388 hectares, depth 43 m) and Raduńskie Dolne (area 737 hectares, depth 35.4 m). A dyke separating those lakes, called the Kashubian Gate, was founded in the mid-19th century as a part of the Kartuzy – Bytów road. In its next section, the lake has varied coastline with peninsulas Hel and Paszk. A very distinct narrow part is a place where travellers used to cross. After leaving the lake there is 30 meter long portage, passing by a weir and mill located below.

We enter Kłodno Lake (area 128 hectares, depth 38.5 m), located at the foot of the Kosie Hills in the vicinity of Chmielno. All tourists willing to explore more might paddle to next two connected Chmieleńskie Lakes that is Białe and Rekowo. The first one gives the opportunity to reach the shore almost opposite the Museum of Kashubian Ceramics.

From Kłodno Lake without any obstacles the trail leads to the next – Małe Brodno Lake (area 71 hectares, depth 7 m). It offers stunning view of Sobótka Hill where recently a reconstruction of a windmill has been built. You can go there after leaving kayak in one of marines.

After passing the stone bridge in Ręboszewo reach Brodno Wielkie Lake (area 135 hectares, depth 15.7 m). The lake is located in Brodnicka Tunnel Valley. It is worth climbing its high slopes to admire truly scenic views. The easiest way of getting to viewpoint Złota Góra is reaching a shore nearby the Centre of Water Sports and Promotion of the Region on the right side. Lake’s outflow leads now to village Brodnica Dolna. Here the kayakers must face 20 meter portage, passing Brodnica weir which is damming water from brodnickie and chmieleńskie lakes.

Soon the trail enters one of bays of Ostrzyckie Lake (area 308 hectares, depth 21 m), considered the most beautiful along entire trail. Here kayakers can turn right to explore lake’s wildest part and see a fortified settlement from the Early Middle Ages located in lake’s most distant part. There is an opportunity of paddling even further – to Bukrzyno Duże and Małe Lakes.

While paddling to Ostrzyce head left. Along the way pass Grabowski’s Island, commemorating island eccentric owner who has once increased the island and for some time bred nutria and pastured cows there. Below Ostrzyce begins the next section of the Radunia.

In order to close the loop, head south among the forested Ostrzyckie Hills. On the right side there is a forest reserve ‘Ostrzycki Las’ protecting well-preserved patch of beech forest. To reach neighboring Patulskie Lake (area of 94 ha, length 3.2 km) kayakers must paddle upstream the so-called Gołubska Struga which at this point is relatively shallow. On the right side is a highly situated village Pierszczewo with towering mountain called Kamyszka (234 m). Find stream’s outflow and once more paddle upstream. At this point two approximately 10 meter long portages are obligatory. The first is nearby a mill in Gołubie while the second just before Dąbrowskie Lake (area 64 hectares, depth 15.2 m).

Covering the river section leading to another lake – Lubowisko (area of 37 ha, depth 7.6 m) hidden among forest, should not pose any major problems. From that spot kayak portage to the nearest Stężyckie Lake is a must (1.5 km).

Equipment rentals and marinas

Raduńskie Górne Lake:

Water Marina in Stężyca, Kartuska 27A, phone: 735917485

Vacation centre ‘Adler’, Zgorzałe, phone: 502 486 990, www.adler.kaszuby.pl.

Vacation centre ‘Sosnówka’, Zgorzałe, phone: 58 684 33 84, www.sosnowka.com.

Kłodno Lake:

Vacation centre ‘Krefta’, Grodziska 10, Chmielno, phone: 58 684 22 34, www.krefta.pl.

Wichrowe Wzgórze – Kaszubska Oaza Zdrowia (Wuthering Height – The Kashubian Oasis of Health) Wichrowe Wzgórze 13, Chmielno, phone: 604595130, www.wichrowe.info.

Camping ‘Tamowa’, Zawory 47a, phone: 58 684 25 35, www.tamowa.pl.

Vacation centre ‘Bachus’, Grodziska 16, Chmielno, phone: 58 684 22 00, www.kaszuby-domki.pl

Białe Lake:

Vacation centre ‘Szuwarek’, Grodziska 5, Chmielno, phone: 58 684 22 71, www.szuwarek.com – equipment available for resort’s guests

Vacation centre ‘Świt’, Grodziska 1, Chmielno, www.chmielno.swit.com.pl.

Wielkie Brodno Lake:

Centre of Water Sports and Promotion of the Region Złota Góra, Brodnica Górna phone: 517563807, www.zlotagora-kartuzy.pl

Bukrzyno Duże Lake:

Vacation centre ‘Long Vita’, Czapielski Młyn, phone: 58 684 53 69, www.czapielskimlyn.pl. –equipment available for resort’s guests

Ostrzyckie Lake:

Guesthouse “U Zośki”, Ostrzyce, Droga Kaszubska 31

Recreation Centre U Stolëma, Droga Kaszubska 8a, Ostrzyce, phone: 58 684 18 77, www. ustolema.pl.

Vacation centre ‘Wieżyca’, Kolano 79, phone: 58 684 38 26, www.wiezycacw.pl

Campsites:

Kłodno Lake:

Vacation centre ‘Krefta’, Grodziska 10, Chmielno, phone: 58 684 22 34, www.krefta.pl.

Camping ‘Tamowa’, Zawory 47a, phone: 58 684 25 35, www.tamowa.pl.

Vacation centre ‘Bachus’, Grodziska 16, Chmielno, phone: 58 684 22 00, www.kaszuby-domki.pl

Ostrzyckie Lake:

Campsite Stolëmek, Droga Kaszubska 8a, Ostrzyce, phone: 58 684 18 77, www.stolema.pl.

Guesthouse “U Maryli”, Ostrzyce, Droga Kaszubska 19A, phone: 586841618,www.umaryli.pl

Górne Raduńskie Lake, photo kajaki-kaszuby.pl

The Słupia

The Słupia’s spring area is nearby Sierakowska Huta. The river is 141 km long and runs through the Landscape Park ‘Słupia Valley’ offering extraordinary natural and landscape values. Moreover, it runs one of Europe’s oldest hydroelectric power plants. The section to Sulęczyno is calmer and links several lakes. Below Węgorzyno Lake begins the most thrilling and troublesome section, called ‘Rynna Sulęczyńska’. Kayakers experience here mountain-like conditions paddling over considerable rocks and boulders. Further the river is calmer but still abounds in obstacles.

It is recommended to start one or two-day kayaking trip in Gowidlino on a large meadow nearby the village. Considerable Gowidlińskie Lake (area 401 hectares, depth 26.9 m) has many bays, peninsulas and two islands. The Słupia flows into the lake on the left. Now paddle into the direction of outflow and enter the river section. Small, winding river leads to a bridge over the Suleczyno – Sierakowice road, below which gets quicker and flows into Wegorzyno Lake (area 124 hectares, depth 14 m). The lake is in a tunnel valley; its slopes reach up to 50 meters. The trail might be completed in Sulęczyno nearby the marina.

Equipment rentals and marinas

Riverside marina Kajaki-Słupia s.c., Sulęczyno, phone: 605 569 713, www.kajaki-slupia.pl

Camping sites

Riverside marina Kajaki-Słupia s.c., Sulęczyno, phone: 605 569 713, www.kajaki-slupia.pl

Maraska, Żeromskiego 6, Sulęczyno, phone: 668 228 493, www.maraska.com.pl.

The Bukowina

The Bukowina, meandering through forests, is wild and beautiful. It is 28.6 km long. Kayaking trip on this river requires experience in maneuvering a kayak, kayakers must also deal with many obstacles, e.g. fallen trees rising from river’s bed. Proper starting point for a one-day kayaking trip on Bukowina is nearby a bridge over the Sierakowice – Bukowina road, where it flows into Kamienickie Lake. A few kilometers behind Kamienica Szlachecka the river leaves Kashubian Switzerland and finally in Kozino falls into an equally wild Łupawa river.

The Łeba

The head section of the Łeba river is located near Borzestowo. Its lower reaches passes Lębork, flows into Łebsko Lake and flows into the Baltic Sea in Łeba after passing 117 km. It is one of the most challenging, yet also beautiful rivers for canoeing in Poland. The upper section is full of rocky riffles and water might be shallow in some places, so it is best to go there in single kayaks with strong bottom. The trip might start below Sianowskie Lake in Sianowo or below a bridge in Strysza Buda. Outside the Kashubian Lake District river’s current becomes calmer.

Organisers of kayaking trips in the central Kashubia

Przystań kajakowa „kajaki-słupia” s.c., Sulęczyno, tel. 605569713, www.kajaki-slupia.pl

Kaszubskie Kajaki, Kiełpino – Trątkownica, ul. Raduńska, tel. 791205733, www.kaszubskiekajaki.pl

Kajaki Radunia, Ostrzyce, ul. Kasztelańska 2a, tel. 586841835, www.kajakiradunia.pl

ekajaki.pl, Parchowo, ul. Strażacka 21, tel. 510808333, www.ekajaki.pl

Centrum Aktywnego Wypoczynku, Starogard Gdański, ul. Przejezdna 1, tel. 601633292, www.kajaki.stg.pl

Kajax-J.S. Kubiszewscy, Lipusz, ul. Rogali 16, tel. 696599556, 696697256, www.kajakinakaszubach.pl

Superkajak Sławomir Napiórkowski, Przechlewo, ul. Dworcowa 35, tel. 606814880, www.superkajak.com

kajakmlyn.pl, Korne 18, tel. 607815317, 609351095, www.kajakimlyn.pl

Kashubian Switzerland in winter

Snow conditions

The central part of the Kashubian Lake District is characterised by a slightly colder climate than the surrounding areas. The average number of frosty days per year with temperature not exceeding 0°C is 30-40 and freezing days with minimum temperature below 0°C – circa 100-110 days. Study of snow cover at the weather station in Borucino indicate that most often its creation starts in November. Thickness increases until March and usually disappears in April. The average snow cover thickness is 13.2 cm. In recent years owners of ski resort in Wieżyca confirm that the most favourable skiing conditions are in March, which might further be connected with the process of shifting winter maximum to March. Snow cover thickness might be checked on ski resort’s websites. During winter snow reports are broadcasted by Radio Gdańsk and Radio Kaszëbë.

Downhill skiing resorts

Wieżyca – Koszałkowo

The oldest and most popular ski resort in Kashubia, offering numerous attractions both during winter and summer. The slopes are snowed, lighted and equipped with sound system. There is an opportunity of learning skiing, renting skis and servicing the equipment. The ATM is located nearby the checkout. Numerous food stands function in the vicinity. Rescue service is present on the slope.

Information about slope:

- two lifts, length 300 m,

- one lift, length 260 m,

- lifts for beginners and children

- two snow tubing lifts,

- average angle of slope: 15 degrees,

- height difference: 45 m.

Contact: The Centre of Active Rest –Koszałkowo Wieżyca, Wieżyca 32, phone: 58 684 38 16, koszalkowo@wiezyca.pl, www.wiezyca.pl.

Wieżyca – Kotlinka

This slightly longer slope in a picturesque valley offers views over the Ostrzyckie Hills and is directly adjacent to Koszałkowo. It is snowed, lighted and equipped with sound system. Parking is at the top of the slope. Food and beverage facilities are available as well. The nearest ATM is located nearby Koszałkowo. Paramedics are present on the slope. Electronic cards are obligatory.

Information about slope:

- ski lift, length 320 m,

- ski lift, length 100 m,

- average angle of slope: 20 degrees,

- height difference: 45 m.

Contact: Kotlinka in Szymbark, Górska 3, Szymbark, phone: 58 6843907, wieżyca-kotlinka@wp.pl, www.wiezycakotlinka.pl.

Kosowo – Paczoskowo

The slope is located in the vicinity of Przodkowo, relatively near Gdańsk and descends into the valley of the Czarna Struga. It is snowed and lighted. Ski equipment rental functions here and there are also food and beverage facilities. Payment by cash – the closest ATM is located in Przodkowo.

Information about slope:

- T-bar lift, length: 270 m,

- height difference: 35 m,

- average angle of slope: 16 degrees.

Contact: Ski Resort ‘Paczoskowo’, Kosowo 132, phone: 664 432 604, paczoskowo@wp.pl, www.paczoskowo.pl.

Przywidz – Ski Resort

The longest slope in Pomerania, which in addition is ideal for beginners who will surely find the angle of slope appropriate. It is snowed, lighted and equipped with sound system. Moreover, there is a snowpark created especially for freestyle skiing and snowboarding enthusiasts. On the slope operate equipment rental and service, there are also food and beverage facilities.

Information about slope:

- 2 T-bar lifts, length: 600 m,

- baby lift – lift 80 meters long for children and beginners,

- snow tubing lift,

- snowpark,

- average angle of slope: 11 degrees,

- height difference: 64 m.

Contact: Ski Resort in Przywidz, Tartaczna 3, phone: 509125334, biuro@nartyprzywidz.com.pl, www.nartyprzywidz.com.pl

Trzepowo

The slope is nearby Przywidz at the provincial road 221 Gdańsk – Kościerzyna. It is snowed, lighted and equipped with sound system. There is equipment rental and service, food and beverage facilities as well as a ski school. Slope’s most characteristic feature is the longest downhill track for snow tubing in Pomerania. The nearest ATMs are located in Przywidz and Nowa Karczma.

Information about slope:

- 2 T-bar lifts, length: 300 m,

- lift for learning skiing and snowboarding, length: 100 m,

- 2 snow tubing lifts,

- snowpark,

- height difference: 30–33 m,

- average angle of slope: 14 degrees.

Contact: Ski Resort ‘Trzepowo’, ul. Mestwina phone: 601745645, 606 657 660, biuro@nartykaszuby.pl, www.nartykaszuby.pl.

Amalka

Located on steep slopes of the Słupia valley which flows nearby the resort. The slope is equipped with the snowmaking system and lightning. Ski equipment rental functioning here might service devices at the same time. Moreover, skiers can enjoy a meal in food stands. The nearest ATM is located in Sulęczyno.

Information about slope:

- 2 T-bar lifts, length: 260 m,

- lift for children and beginners, length: 90 m,

- average angle of slope: 16 degrees,

- height difference: 33 m.

Contact: Ski Lift ‘Amalka’, Amalka near Sulęczyno, phone: 58 684 48 85, info@nartyamalka.pl, www.nartyamalka.pl.

Cross country skiing

Even though the first guide for cross-country skiers in Kashubia was written as early as in the mid-20th century, seasonal trails began to be marked in the recent years. Nowadays, trails are located in the vicinity of Kartuzy, Przywidz and Somonino Commune near villages Piotrowo and Połęczyno.

Kartuzy – Bilowo

Range of hills between Kartuzy, Prokowo, Chmielno and Ręboszewo called the Kosie Hills is mostly overgrown by picturesque beech forest. There are three professionally groomed ski trails of varying difficulty. Their total length is approximately 1100 m. Each route consists of two tracks for classic skiing and one track for freestyle skiing. They are maintained by the ski section of the Commune Sports Club ‘Cartusia’. Routes start at the forester’s lodge Bilowo (in order to get there, in Kartuzy turn from Wzgórze Wolności street next to the arboretum and head towards the new cemetery and forester’s lodge).

Przywidz – Ski Resort

The cross country ski track forming a loop was marked in Przywidz at the foot of the ski slope. Its length is 5 km. It is mainly intended for the classic skiing but selected sections have also been adapted to skate skiing. There is an opportunity of renting equipment.

Piotrowo

Within the scope of the project ‘Z pùrgama w kaszëbsczé nórcëczi’ (With skis into all corners of Kashubia) around Piotrowo were marked two trails: red (3.2 km) and blue (3.0 km). Both begin and finish on a square in front of an old school in Piotrowo, at the crossroads in the direction of Chylowa Huta and Szymbark. They lead via areas north of Piotrowo, partly through forests growing on the picturesque Szymbarskie Hills.

Połęczyno

Thanks to project called ‘Z pùrgama w kaszëbsczé nórcëczi’ (With skis into all corners of Kashubia) two trails in Połęczyno area were created: red (2.8 km) and blue (1.8 km). Starting point for both is in front of St. Andrew Bobola church in Połęczyno. They run towards Połęczyńskie Lake mainly through exposed areas such as meadows and pastures.

Sleigh rides on the Szymbarskie and Ostrzyckie Hills

Many farmers from central Kashubia offer rides in sleigh pulled by horses. There is no denying however that the area of Szymbark and Wieżyca are the heartland of sleigh rides. Local coachmen (Kashubian: kùczrowie) during wintertime offer exciting sleigh trips with torches, bonefire and sometimes even performance of a local folk band. The Association of Kashubian Kuczerów organises or co-organises a series of horse related events both during summer and winter. It is worth choosing services of Association’s coachmen because they are familiarised with sled-roads and able to offer well-organised sleigh rides.

Information concerning Kùczers who organise sleigh rides can be found on the website of Zrzeszenie Kaszubskich Kuczerów (Association of Kashubian Kuczerów) www.kuczer.pl.

5. Overview of villages and towns

Amalka

Small village in the Słupia valley 5 km to the north of Sulęczyno. Founded in the 19th century around a mill which first owners were members of the Jäkel family from Berlin.

Attractions:

Ski slope Amalka – two T-bat lifts (length 260 m, height difference 33 m);

Gowidlińskie Lake and kayaking trail of the Słupia river;

Barrow cemetery – between Amalka and Mściszewice, to the south of Okno Lake. Identified with the Pomeranian culture (550–400 BC)

Babi Dół

Village on the Żukowo-Kościerzyna road, surrounded by forests, near the Radunia Ravine. Since the mid-18th century an inn was located here and entire settlement belonged to the Norbertines. The Prussian owners took over the land in the late 19th century and have built a foundry (ironworks) producing wire. At this time, the village has also become destination for hiking tourists visiting the Radunia valley. In the 20s of the 20th century on the opposite side of the village was built the so-called Polish Coal Trunk-Line and a railway station, which played an important role in transporting wood from surrounding forests.

Attractions:

Railway building of the so-called Polish Coal Trunk-Line (type Bydgoszcz – Gdynia) – dated to 1930;

Radunia Ravine, called also Babidolski Gorge – the longest gorge of the Radunia; between Trątkownica and Rutki its length is 9 km. Ravine’s slope reach 40 meters and are covered by wet-ground forest while valley’s bottom is overgrown by riparian forest. Cool and humid climate results in occurrence of certain species of mountain plants;

Early Medieval fortified settlement on Zamkowa Góra, in the fork of the Radunia river and a stream flowing west from the village.

Bącz

Small village in the heart of the Mirachowskie Forests. Recorded in documents since the times of the Teutonic Knights. Despite its barren lands the settlement was constantly developed and just 100 years ago reached the number of inhabitants similar to contemporary.

Attractions:

Bąckie Lake – located to the east of the village, its area is 22 hectares. The remaining part of larger Mirachowskie Lake which in the middle of the century was supposed to be drained;

Nature reserve in the Mirachowskie Forests – ‘Kurze Grzędy’ and ‘Jezioro Turzycowe’ west of the village and ‘Staniszewskie Błota’ east. The black trail of the Szymbarskie Hills leads to areas under protection.

rides in a horse-drawn carriage and sleigh rides at the agritourism farm Bączówka (www.baczowka.pl).

Wielkie Lake in Kurze Grzędy reserve, photo J. Lipiński

Borcz

In the years 1241-82 likewise several other villages in the Radunia valley Borcz belonged to the Bishop of Kujawy – Michał, who obtained it from Sambor II, the Duke of Lubiszewo and Tczew. Later it was a knight-owned village and in the 15th century was purchased by the Carthusians. In 1701 entire Borcz became the property of Malbork Governor Jan Jerzy Przebendowski and later changed hands. Since 1795 the last owners of the village were the Hoene family. In the interwar period the State Land Fund during land allotment divided part of the Hoene’s property between locals and newcomers – peasants from Galicia. In 1945 the Hoene, like many other families of German origin, emigrated from Poland. Dietrich Hoene – the last owner of the local property did not
visit their former estate until 1991.

Attractions:

Manor complex of the Hoene family – dates to the turn of 19th and 20th century. The manor was built in 1911 on the site of a former one completely burnt down. Spacious farm buildings have been constructed from local stone and brick. Attention is drawn to a three-floor granary, which houses a stylish restaurant. Moreover, the manor offers hotel rooms;

Kamienne Wesele (literally: Stone Wedding) – barrow cemetery and stone circles, 3 km west of the village

Borucino

A village nearby Raduńskie Górne Lake, on the Kartuzy – Bytów road. Recorded in the documents in the 15th century. It belonged to noble families, including the Boruccy and Warzewscy. At the end of the 19th century it became part of property of the Hoene family from Pępowo. In the centre of the village, on the banks of a small (12 ha) Borucińskie Lake the historical linear arrangement of settlement is still preserved.

Attractions:

Kashubian Gate – a dyke dividing Raduńskie Lake into parts called respectively Upper and Lower. Constructed in the mid-19th century while building the Kartuzy – Bytów road. Previously, travelers used to cross the narrow part to the north of current embankment. It offers scenic views of a tunnel valley in which Raduńskie Lake is located;

Limnological Station of the University of Gdańsk – operates since 1959. Its objective is to study the changes of natural and manmade lakes of Pomerania. Moreover, since 1961 the station has also been collecting data concerning climate. Visits after prior arrangement.

Brodnica Dolna

Village in a deep Brodnicka tunnel valley, located by the Radunia river which at this point links Lakes Wielkie Brodno and Ostrzyckie.
The settlement, together with manor farm Ostrowo was a knight-owned estate. For many years the Ustarbowscy were the owners and since the 17th century the Kashubian family Lniscy. In the village is a weir damming water from Brodno Wielkie and Małe as well as Chmieleńskie Lakes.

Attractions:

Jastrzębia Góra (227 m.a.s.l.)– a scenic hill
between Brodnica Dolna and Ostrzyce. Fields on top of the hill offer commanding views considered the most beautiful in the Kashubian Switzerland. a red hiking Kashubian
Trail leads to the peak of Jastrzębia Góra.

Brodnica Górna

Village nearby the Kartuzy – Bytów road within the area of Raduńskie Circle. It dates back to the Teutonic Knights times. Similar to Brodnica Dolna it belonged to the Ustarbowscy, Lniscy and Tokarscy families. Moreover, those families also owned a manor farm in Kamionka Brodnicka.

Attractions:

Złota Góra – viewpoint at the crossroad Bytów-Ostrzyce, located on the western side of the village. Before the war, the Hill was under the name of Pomeranian Voivode Severus Kirtiklis;

Brodnicki Kamień – a boulder (perimeter 11.2 m, height 2.15 m) nearby the Brodnica-Bytów road.

Chwaszczyno

Large village on the Żukowo-Gdynia road, now constantly developed in the immediate vicinity of Tricity. Initially prince-owned estate, in 1240 offered by Prince Sambor II to the Norbertines from Żukowo. Decades later Duke Mestwin II gave it to Cistercians from Oliwa as a compensation for lands seized by the Teutonic Knights in the vicinity of Gniew. Finally, in 1301 the village fell into the hands of the bishops of Włocławek and belonged to them until the Partitions. In the 19th century the estate was subjected to land allotment. Despite proximity of large cities nowadays the majority of population is still of Kashubian origin.

Attractions:

Church of St. Simon and Jude – dates to 1726, built on the site of a former wooden temple founded by the Cistercians from Oliwa. The western part of the temple was added in 1875. In the main altar behind the image of Our Lady, is a Gothic statue of the Madonna and Child.

Chmielno

Large village, seat of the Commune, stretching over three lakes: Kłodno, Białe and Rekowo. From the east are slopes of the Kosie Hills with peaks called Tamowa and Biskupia. Apart from Żukowo it is the oldest recorded settlement in Kashubian Switzerland. Most probably already in the 10th century there was a fortified settlement, which was noted in documents in the 2nd half of 13th century. It was the centre of Chmieleńska Castellany including 70 other villages. At that time Chmielno was handed over to Damroka, the daughter of the ruler of Gdańsk Pomerania Świętopełk, who founded a church. Finally, the settlement was most probably destroyed by the army of Margraviate of Brandenburg in the early 14th century. At the time of the Teutonic Knights Chmielno as a local administrative centre lost its importance to the benefit of Miechucino. Until the First Partition of Poland the village belonged to the Norbertine’s Convent in Żukowo.

During the 19th century local population associated in numerous social and business organisations. Among others was newly created and first in Kashubia People’s Bank. In the 90s of the 20th century it was the first Kashubian village which set up agritourism farms. Nowadays, it still has the largest number of agritourism farms in the area.

Attractions:

Museum of Kashubian Ceramics ;

Church of Saints Peter and Paul from 1845 with a tower dating to 1860. Built on the site of previous churches, arcade-style, combining inspirations of Romanism and Classicism. The main altars are Baroque and come from the former temple. On the ceiling is a polychrome showing patterns derived from the Kashubian embroidery, pottery as well as griffins (Kashubian coat of arms). On the walls of the nave are clay candlesticks from Necel’s Ceramics Workshop;

Grodzisko (Grodzëszcze) – Early Medieval settlement on an isthmus between Białe and Kłodno Lakes. At present the spot is marked by wooden gates and an information board at the lido;

Ceramics Workshop Genius – functions since 1981. The majority of products are exported. You can buy end-of-line vessels from international collections or order custom made products. Contact: Akacjowa 18, phone: 58 684 23 47, www.geniusceramika.pl;

mill over the Radunia river in Chmielonko – built in 1738 and rebuilt numerous times. It stands on the road to Zawory, in a site of a former mill built by the Cistercians from Oliwa in the 13th century.

Czeczewo

Village on an undulating upland approximately 5 km to the north of Przodkowo with population of several hundred residents. First recorded in the 13th century, initially a manor farm of the Kczewscy family from the area of Kczewo. Its development took place in the 19th century, partly after the larger estates underwent land allotment.

Attractions:

St. Joseph church dating to 1926, Neo-Baroque. Decorative elements, furnishings from the time of temple construction.

Gołubie

Popular summer resort between Dąbrowskie and Patulskie Lakes over the Gołubska Struga. By the end of the 13th century the settlement belonged to Pirsna Land which stretched in the area of Kościerzyna and Pierszczewo. In 1260 prince Sambor II handed over Gołubie to the Cistercians who soon sold it to knights. Finally, in 1432 the village was acquired the Carthusians. Tourists began to frequently visit this place after the railway line Kartuzy – Kościerzyna was opened in 1901, and then in 1929 the so-called Polish Coal Trunk-Line (Silesia – Gdynia). After the war were opened several larger recreational centres. Nowadays, the village is famous for its health and weight loss holidays.

Attractions:

Botanical Garden in Gołubie – a private institution founded by the Butowski family who transformed their garden into a botanical garden open to the public. Growing collection of plants from entire world currently has approximately 4,000 species covering the area of 2.12 ha. Contact: Botanical Street 21, phone: 58 684 36 08, 600 872 501, zbutowski@wp.pl, www.obgolubie.robia.pl;

Early Medieval fortified settlement Pirsna over Zamkowisko Lake – a former centre of land stretching over the southern part of Raduńskie Circle and Kościerzyna. Car drive to Pierszczewo (5 km) then hiking via the red Kashubian Trail (2.3 km).

Goręczyno

Village in the valley of the Radunia near Somonino. In the Middle Ages it was the administrative centre of lands over the central Radunia stretching almost to Żukowo. First recorded in the documents of Prince Sambor II from the Kashubian dynasty of Samborides who in 1241 handed over periphery of his estate to the Bishop of Kujawy – Michał. The objective of granting the land was withdrawal from paying tithing of the remaining part of the estate. Already in 1282 Mestwin II has annulled the above grant. Since that time, the village belonged to knights and then nobility. In the 2nd half of the 15th century Goręczyno by means of giving charter or selling became part of the Carthusians land estate. Monks administered the village until suppression during the Prussian times. The town has lost its importance in the 70s of the 20th century when the seat of the Commune was moved to a nearby Somonino.

Attractions:

St. Trinity and All Saints church – post-carthusian, dates back to 1639, rebuilt in 1914. Baroque furnishing from the 16th-17th century created in workshops in Gdańsk. On the main altar behind the image of the Christ’s crucifixion is a Gothic statue of Our Lady of Mercy, in the predella of the altar – a painting presenting martyrdom of the Carthusian monks. The right side altar devoted to the Holy Trinity is decorated by cordovans. The oldest monument in the temple – a statue of St. Barbara from approximately 1400 is placed over the sacristy. A bell from foundry in Malbork comes from the same period;

The Museum of the Kashubian Land and Military Equipment – founded by a resident of Goręczyno, history enthusiast Sławomir Kamiński. It is a small museum presenting rich variety of historical exhibits from Kashubia, registered in the ministerial list. The exhibition is both indoor and outdoor and offers old farm utensils, weapons and firearms, uniforms and military equipment. Among many exhibits are such gems as souvenirs from the September Campaign, pre-war calculator or bottles from the brewery in Kartuzy. Contact: Kasztelańska 26e, phone: 725007458.

Gowidlino

Village over Gowidlińskie Lake, 7 km west of Sierakowice which is still cultivating Kashubian traditions. Until the late 19th century southwest of the village were distinct traces of burial of the Goths tribe dating to the beginning of our era. Gowidlino was first recorded in the documents in 1360 when from the hands of Mikołaj Czartka became the property of the Teutonic Order. In the days of the First Republic belonged to the Mirachowski Starost. During interwar period it was a border town on the road to Słupsk. Nowadays, the village offers numerous agritourism accommodation facilities.

Attractions:

Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Neo-Gothic, stone and brick construction from 1868. The temple was founded by Bishop Johannes Nepomuk von der Marwitz who comes from the nearby Tuchlino. The majority of equipment dates to the late 20th century;

Gowidlińskie Lake – 393 hectares, maximum depth 26.9 m. Offers favourable conditions for sailors and kayakers who choose it as a starting point of kayaking trips on the Słupia river.

Kamienica Królewska

Village on the western edge of the Mirachowskie Forest, between Kamienickie and Junno Lakes, which are part of Potęgowskie Lakes complex. Origins date back to year 1400 when it was founded on the Polish town law. In the days of the First Republic subjected to the Mirachowski Starost. Since the Teutonic times there was a mill (nowadays Kamienicki Młyn) and an inn. During the last war, many residents of Kamienica supported a secret military organization ‘Pomeranian Griffin’. On Jan Kwidziński’s property was a supplementary bunker called ‘Griffin’s Nest’, which after heroic defense on 10th January 1944 was blown up along with the bodies of guerrillas. This event is commemorated by a monument to the partisans on the way to Mirachowo.

Attractions:

Zamkowa Góra – a viewpoint over Kamienicki Młyn. From the parking at the foot of the mountain leads a path to a wooden terrace offering views of Potęgowskie Lakes;

UKS Wiking marina over Kamienickie Lake – gives possibility to rent various classes of yachts. Contact: Szkolna 19, phone: 58 681 92 42, 681 66 25, www.ukswiking.pl.

Red Kashubian Trail – hiking trail, which leads from Kamienica Szlachecka to the viewpoint Szczelina Lechicka, Mirachowskie Grotto and Lubygość Lake.

Kartuzy

The capital of District and entire central Kashubia (population 15.7 thousand). Picturesquely situated among the four lakes on a moraine upland. From the west are slopes of the Kosie Hills, reaching 260 m above sea level. For over 400 years the village was inseparably bound with the Carthusian Order. In 1382 Jan from Różęcin gave monks the land for the purpose of establishing a monastery, called later Mary’s Paradise or Gdańsk Carthusia (Kashubian Carthusia). Over the years a small village functioned nearby the monastery. Its inhabitants worked on the monastic farm and attended a small, now non-existent church of St. Catherine. The Carthusian Order was secularised during The First Partition of Poland in 1772 and finally suppressed in 1823.

In 1818 former monastic and Mirachowskie Starost lands were joined and the Carthusian District was established. Despite this fact Kartuzy for over 100 years formally remained a village, which most likely resulted from pro-Polish attitude of inhabitants. Around mid-19th century were marked the most important streets and market square in place of a former one. The city began to grow faster after obtaining the first railway connection to Pruszcz Gdański in 1886 and then to Łeba and Kościerzyna as well. At that time Kartuzy became a popular summer resort and spa.

After General Haller’s troops marched to the city in January 1920, Kartuzy after almost half a century returned to Poland and three years later finally obtained town privileges. The city became then an important centre of Kashubian political thought – thanks to Aleksander Majkowski’s activity (1876-1938). He was a doctor, writer and journalist, who spent the last years of life in Kartuzy. The outbreak of World War II marked the beginning of oppression and arrests under the Intelligenzaktion. Part of intelligentsia and members of the pre-war pro-Polish organisations were killed in the Kartuski Forest near village Kaliska. Others were deported to the General Government. After the war, Kartuzy has developed especially towards the west. In that area primarily single family houses were built. South of the centre were constructed blocks of a housing estate called after Józef Wybicki.

Attractions:

Complex of post-monastery Carthusian buildings and Collegiate Church of the Assumption of the BVM ;

Chapel of the Holy Cross – from 1653, rebuilt from ruins in 1989. It towers on Góra Spiczasta, nearby road towards Sierakowice. According to tradition, it was built to impede celebrating pagan rites or to commemorate the death of Carthusians during the invasion of the Swedes in 1629;

Gaj Świętopełka – forest growing along the banks of Małe Klasztorne Lake. a popular place for walks especially via the so-called Philosophers’ Alley leading to the only island – Wyspa Łabędzia (Swan’s Island). During summer it is a venue of open-air events;

Arboretum of Karthusian Forest Rangers named after Jerzy Schwengel, Wzgórze Wolności street, nearby a small hamlet Bilowo. Apart from typically regional trees also exotic species have been planted. All of them might be admired while strolling a marked one kilometer path;

Assessor’s Bench – a viewpoint over Karczemne Lake. The name commemorates Carthusian court assessor Karl Pernin, who lived at the turn of 19th and 20th century and liked sitting there and admiring views;

St. Kazimierz church – dating to 1887, until 1945 Lutheran church. 50 meters high tower is the highest in the city. Furnishing mostly comes from the second half of 20th century. The wooden vaulted ceiling, chandeliers and stained glass windows from the time of construction are among the most valuable decorative elements. One of the stained glass windows in the sanctuary presents Christ the King basing on sculptures of a Danish artist – Bertel Thorvaldsen;

Franciszek Treder Kashubian Museum.

Kiełpino

One of the largest villages of Kashubian Switzerland, 5 km to the south of Kartuzy. Its name comes from the old Kashubian words kôłp meaning swan. Alongside with other villages along the Radunia, from Ostrzyce almost to Żukowo, in the 13th century it was a part of episcopal estate of the Goręczyńska Castellany. In 1380 Jan from Rusocin became its owner and one year later donated part of the Kiełpińskie Estate to the monastery in Kartuzy. In 1391 the Carthusian monks have founded here a parish and a church.

At the beginning of World War II the local parish priest Antoni Arasmus has demonstrated extraordinary heroism and despite the threat of arrest administered sacraments in the Polish language. He was murdered in the Kartuski Forest and currently the process of his beatification is taking place.

Attractions:

St. Michael church from 1647. As in the case of a former temple it was built by the Carthusians. The main altar with the image of St. Michael is decorated in the Baroque style. The late Renaissance side altars also deserve attention.

Kolano

Village and tourist resort on Ostrzyckie Lake, at the foot of Bukowa Góra, nearby Wieżyca. a fragment of a lake and then the village itself was named Kolano (literally: Knee) due to its shape which resembles a bent knee. The settlement most probably dates to the early 17th century. In 1936 was built there one of the first three permanent camps of YMCA (Young Men’s Christian Association). During World War II it housed the POW camp.

In forest around Bukowa Góra, where nowadays is Kolańska Huta, a local forester ranger Józef Król gave shelter to 45 hiding runaways and prisoners of war. Among them were prisoners from a nearby village Kolano. Due to favorable relations between forester and the local German officers, none of them has been found.

Attractions:

•lido and water equipment rental as well as marina for a pleasure boat ‘Stolëm’;

•old wooden YMCA houses – during the war belonged to a POW camp, today are part of the resort. Access from the lake up the stairs.

Krzeszna

Small village over Ostrzyckie and Patulskie Lake, nearby railway line Gdynia – Kościerzyna. Off-season quiet and peaceful, very lively and crowded in the summer thanks to tourists visiting the resort and a growing number of private accommodation facilities. The local inn was first recorded in the documents in 1610 and at that time belonged to the Carthusians. Might be a good starting point to climb the top of Wieżyca (yellow hiking trail).

Attractions:

Ostrzycki Forest – beech forests at Ostrzyckie Lake. Since 1960 under protection in a nature reserve covering the area of 55.13 hectares. Consists of several types of beech forests, among which the most valuable is the calcareous type with abundant Lady’s Slipper orchid site.

Leźno

Village to the west of Żukowo. Divided into so-called ‘Działki’ (lots), located nearby road No. 7, and a part around a manor and park. Since the Teutonic times there were twin villages both of them knight-owned estates – Wielkie Leźno, which later ceased to exist, and Małe Leźno which was granted to a knight Piotr from Lewino in 1338 (at that time also the owner of Sierakowice). During the years of the Second Polish Republic Leźno was leased from the Polish king by prominent Pomeranian families such as the Heidenstein, Przebendowscy and Grabowscy. The latter allowed for the collapse of estate. From times of Friedrich Hoene, who in 1832 took over Leźno from the Hellfenstein, the restoration of the property began. The village remained property of the Hoene family until 1945. Then was devastated by the Red Army and later the Stare Agricultural Farm was established. In 1994 the University of Gdańsk took over part of the former palace and estate, furnished the interior and led the revitalization of the entire complex.

Attractions:

Palace of the Hoene family dates to 1884, in Gdańsk Neo-Renaissance style. Built by George Hoene on the site of a former palace, constructed by Jan Przebendowski in the 18th century. The building houses a freely accessible restaurant and a hotel. The palace is surrounded by a park also arranged by the Hoene family.

Łapalice

Village on western slopes of the Kose Hills, on the Kartuzy-Sierakowice road. Nearby is a large Łapalickie (Garcze) Lake, which already in 1209 was granted to the Norbertines from Żukowo. The village itself originally belonged to the Teutonic Knights, then was included as a part of the royal estate in the Mirachowskie Starost. At the end of the 18th century the property has undergone land allotment and was granted to perpetual tenants. Relatively rich deposits of gray varved clays until recently were used by two local brickyards – in the upper part of the village and in Mokre Łąki.

Attractions:

castle in Łapalice – modern, unfinished castle which construction began in 1979 by a famous sculptor, wood carver and furniture manufacturer from Gdańsk. The original design assuming a summer resort villa has been significantly changed. The final plans assumed huge construction covering 5,000 m² with 12 towers, banquet halls, hundreds of stairs, corridors and other facilities. The initiator of building ran into debt and did not manage to sell the complex. Meanwhile, the castle became a tourist attraction. Currently, it cannot be visited. It is still unsure whether it will ever be completed.

Miechucino

On the Łeba river, between Lakes Wielkie and Miechucinko, nearby the Kartuzy- Sierakowice road. In the 14th century for several years the village served as an administrative centre of the Teutonic Knights. After 1466 it became part of the Mirachowskie Starost. In the early 19th century the estate underwent land allotment and land was given to peasants. In 1905 in Miechucino railway line Pruszcz Gdański – Kartuzy – Łeba began functioning, now it is unused.

Attractions:

village park on Miechucińskie Lake with unguarded lido;

educational trail – length 4 km, starting point at the school over Miechucinko Lake, finishes nearby the shores of Wielkie Lake;

a complex of railway buildings and water tower– from the early 20th century.

Mirachowo

Village by the Mirachowska Struga, among the Mirachowskie Forests. For over 400 years was one of the most important villages of the central Kashubia. In the early Middle Ages on Ostrów peninsula (formerly located by Mirachowskie Lake) was a castle, which is confirmed by discovered remains of a wooden palisade. Since 1381 the settlement became a centre of power of Teutonic Komtur, who built a wooden manor here. After 1466 the area of the former Attorney was converted into the Mirachowskie Starost, covering the western part of today’s Kartuski, and partly Bytowski and Wejherowski Districts. Estate was leased by successive Starosts, including the Szczepańscy, Szczawińscy and Linde until 1772. In Mirachowo took place assemblies during which nobility elected their representatives. At that period Mirachowo housed a circuit court and prison, and a hill towering above the village was place of execution. Despite numerous privileges in the days of the First Polish Republic the settlement did not obtain town rights. It was located too far from Gdańsk, on the outskirts of trade routes and did not have its own parish. Lessees, deriving income from farming also were not in favour of changing the status of Mirachowo.

After the Partitions entire property was sold and in the 19th century its part was partitioned between peasants. Moreover, Forest Inspectorate has been established. After 1818 when Kartuzy was elected to become the capital of the District, Mirachowo lost its importance. The landowner Hering with help of the Swedish Karl Gustav Foundation has built a church for the growing Evangelical community. After 1945 the temple was taken over by the Catholics. Mirachowo is still primarily an agricultural village, yet there are also some private accommodation facilities.

Attractions:

Starost manor – from the late 18th century, with and older northern wing, timbered. Nowadays not available for visitors;

Chapel of Our Lady of Perpetual Help – the former manor chapel dates to the 18th century;

St. John the Baptist church – from the 60s of the 19th century, initially Lutheran temple. Built in the arcade style. Since 1957 a parish church;

tourist station Lubygość nearby the forester’s lodge Mirachowo – forest car park and outdoor stage which is a venue for various events. Convenient base for hiking in the Mirachowskie Forests: to Mirachowskie Grottos, lakes Lubygość and Kamienne.

Mściszewice

Village nearby Kościerzyna-Sierakowice road, over Mściszewickie Lake, on the border of the Kashubian Lake District and the Tuchola Forest. There have been found traces of cemeteries which indicate the existence of settlements in the area since the 7th century BC. The recorded history of the village begins in the mid-14th century. For a long time it belonged to the Mściszewscy who gradually granted parts of the property to various branches of family.

Attractions:

barrow cemetery of the Lusatian culture – 700 m to the west of the village. Access marked by information boards. Most burials from the Late Bronze and Early Iron Age (8th century)

Workshop of a folk sculptor Sylwia Birr.

Nowa Huta

Village in a picturesque valley of the Łeba river, 3 km to the north of Mirachowo. The village was founded on the site of glassworks existing here since the mid-17th century. Glassworks belonged to the Mirachowskie Starost and functioned for approximately 100 years. After land allotment the process of village development began. It is the birthplace of professor Gerard Labuda (1916-2010), one of the most eminent Polish medievalists. His merits is researching the history of Pomerania and Kashubians are invaluable.

Attractions:

Kamienne Lake – on the edge of the Mirachowskie Forests, formerly lobelia lake. On its shore lies Diabelski Kamień (literally: Devil’s Stone), one of the largest boulders in Pomerania (circumference 17 m, height 3 m, length 5 m). The lake together with adjacent area are protected in a peatland reserve Żurawie Błota (literally: ‘Cranes mud’).

Ostrzyce

Village located over Ostrzyckie Lake probably took its name from the lake, where fishermen used to catch huge amounts of small fish – sticklebacks (Kashubian: òstrzëca), living in shallows of a lake. First recorded in documents in 1241 as one of 13 villages of the Goręczyńskie Estate granted by the Duke of Lubiszewo and Tczew – Sambor II to the Bishop of Kujawy – Michał. Since 1422 for several centuries it has become part of the Carthusian Order estate. Despite vicinity of Catholic Church in Goręczyno in 1866 the majority of inhabitants belonged to the Evangelical religious community in Szymbark.

The origins of Ostrzyce as a summer resort date back to the 2nd half of the 19th century, when holidaymakers started coming to the surrounding inns. Nevertheless, the majority of population still lived off fishing and farming. In the 90s, the town became one of the most attractive resorts of the Lake Kashubian District, which is characterised mainly by private accommodation facilities and agritourism farms.

Attractions:

small pier in Ostrzyce – overlooking Ostrzyckie Lake. There is a marina for a pleasure boat ‘Stolëm’ (cruises VII-VIII, 12.20, 1.50, 3.50 and 5.20 p.m.), and right next to is a freely accessible, unguarded lido;

viewpoint Jastrzębia Góra –with a magnificent view of the Szymbarskie and Ostrzyckie Hills. Access via the red trail (red triangles) leading into Jastrzebia street;

Wzgórze Królewskie (Royal Hill) – a hummock falling from Jastrzębia Góra, name commemorates the visit of Prussian king Friedrich Wilhelm IV. Vast boulder on hill’s top was then called Kamień Królewski (literally: Royal Stone).

Pępowo

The village 4 km northeast of Żukowo. The first recorded data come from the Teutonic times. After 1466 it became a royal estate. In 1832 Goerge Hoene has bought Pępowo together with neighboring village Leźno, and his descendants were in charge of estate until 1945. The last owner – Otto Hoene made attempts to help residents during the occupation. He was buried in the family cemetery on the hill southwest of the village.

Attractions:

Manor complex – dates to 1870. Since 1961 the manor accommodates a primary school, while former farm buildings house numerous companies. Around are remains of a landscape park;

Volkswagen Gallery in Pępowo – unique in Poland museum of this car brand. Over 40 vintage cars have been gathered, including old-time beetles and so-called Cucumbers (Polish: ‘ogórki’). Part of exhibition is a collection of cars miniatures (scale from 1:64 to 1:18). Contact: phone: 58 6818205, 604704050, www.vwmuzeum.pl.

Pomieczyno

Village on hilly moraine upland, among numerous ‘kettle holes’ by Kashubians called also ‘błotka’. The oldest documents concerning the village date back to 1664 when a glassworks was located here. Through the village ran the Gdańsk-Mirachowo road, which led to the seat of the Starost. In January 1945 through Pomieczyno led an escape route for prisoners of Stutthof concentration camp. The prisoners spent nights in a local church and despite numerous difficulties local population tried to bring them food.

Attractions:

wooden church of St. Joseph – 1926, in terms of architecture refers to a historic
church of Our Lady of Częstochowa in Zakopane. The interior decor connected with the Baroque with wooden stalls, pulpit and altars;

remembrance site – mass grave of prisoners from Stutthof;

Hejtus – a hamlet located 2 km to the west where functions year-round Camp Base ‘Hejtus’. It organises, among others, tours and nordic-walking trainings. There is also rental of cycling equipment and ski poles. Contact: phone.: 58 681 53 06, 606 902 887, bazawypadowa@wp.pl , www.bazawypadowa.pl.

Przodkowo

District village nearby a winding road from Kartuzy to Wejherowo. Its origins date back to the 13th century, when the first wooden church was built here. Nearby, on the Klasztorna Struga, was a mill and a paper mill (nowadays a hamlet called Młynek), which belonged to the Carthusian Order. For a long time Przodkowo constituted part of the Royal Kielno Estate (nowadays Szemud District), leased by among others the Wejher family. Since peasantry enfranchisement in 1821 many hamlets in the area have been founded. In winter 1945 through the village were dashed prisoners evacuated from the Nazi death camp in Stutthof.

Attractions:

St. Andrew the Apostle church dating to 1878, Neo-Gothic stone and brick, built on the site of a former deteriorating, wooden temple. The decor from construction times, the only older part of equipment is the Gothic statue of Our Lady, probably comes from the former temple;

Museum of Fire Prevention – unique institution in the entire voivodeship. Most vital are exhibits collected since the 50s. They are mainly rescue and firefighting appliances from Poland and other European countries. The collection began Leon Deyk fire chief of the Volunteer Fire Department. The oldest fire engine in the museum is over 200 years old. Visits after prior contact with the nearby Commune Office (phone: 586819698).

Przywidz

The village on Przywidzkie Lake, among beech forests, in a deep valley – probably most picturesquely location of all villages of Kashubian Switzerland. Written history of Przywidz begins in 1294 when along with several other villages it was donated to the Cistercians from Eldena. As early as 1347 estate was sold to the Teutonic Order; from that time the town was called Mariensee. At the end of the 16th century the property came into the possession of the Kontor family who adopted surname ‘Przywidzki’. In those times at the site of the present cemetery was the first wooden Catholic church. Later, Evangelical temple was constructed. In the early 18th century village was transferred into the hands of Catholics, when the heiress, Barbara Lindówna, adopted Catholicism.

Within the course of years, owners of Przywidz changed very frequently. Among them was the Puttkamer family well-known among the Pomeranian clans and madame von Pickering from Liverpool. At the end of the 19th century the village have already had a school, distillery, starch factory, brickyard and post office. During the interwar period Mariensee was discovered by the Germans from Gdańsk as a summer resort. It was then entitled ‘air resort’ and ‘small Sopot’.

Attractions:

Church of Our Lady of the Rosary dating to 1910, Neo-Gothic, initially Protestant. Since the post-war times fulfilled the role of the main church for the Catholic parish. The historic organ and clockwork were affected by fire after arson in 1998;

St. Francis Xavier church, dates to 1903 with historic organs, currently serves as the cemetery chapel;

manor complex – in the former von Jen family manor from the 2nd half of 19th century. Nowadays guest house and hotel;

Early Middle Ages fortified settlement with a well-preserved dyke on Przywidzkie Lake;

nature and education trail of Kolbudy Forest Inspectorate along the western shore of Przywidzkie Lake;

wooden building of the youth hostel from 1924;

cycling trail around Przywidzkie Lake – length 8 km;

Ski Resort in Przywidz – contact: biuro@nartyprzywidz.com.pl, www.nartyprzywidz.com.pl.

Przyjaźń

Village in Żukowo Commune, 3 km from the road to Gdańsk. The written sources mention it for the first time in 1345. In 1457 Casimir IV granted the village with neighboring Niestępowo to the Gdańsk Mayor Reinhold Niederhof in form of a lifetime lease. Polish kings several times gave the pledge in exchange for loans. Later Przyjaźń belonged, among others, to the Krokow, Bartsch and Jackowski families. At the beginning of the 19th century onetime village owner, Starost Georg Otto von Kleist, like his predecessor, due to difficult housing conditions has moved District’s seat to his manor. At that time the first district newspaper was issued here. After the war, Przyjaźń Estate was transformed into a State Agricultural Farm. Recently the manor has been adapted to serving hotel purposes.

Attractions:

St. John the Evangelist church – originally Gothic, thoroughly renovated in the 70s. Interior offers late Renaissance pulpit, Gothic sculptures from former rood beam and parts of a Baroque altar;

Rąb

Village in Przodkowo Commune, a dispersed settlement typical for the central Kashubia. Recorded in documents since the 19th century. Archeological dig was conducted on five sites and indicated that four of them date back to the Early Iron Age. Apart from the box-shaped graves barrow mounds were also found.

Attractions:

Regional Chamber ‘Chëcz Kaszëbskô’ located in a former school. Has been created by the Association for Kashubian Culture ‘Na Kraju’. Exhibition offers collection of everyday items, tools, furniture, interesting documents and family heirlooms. Chamber’s custodian is Gabriela Gusman, who lives in the eastern part of the building.

Ręboszewo

Village at the confluence of Ręboszewska and Brodnicka Tunnel Valleys, between Wielkie and Małe Brodno Lakes. In 1252 along with lakes the settlement was granted to the Norbertines in Żukowo. After the secularisation of the convent in 1820 the village was transferred to lessees.

Attraction:

Sobótka Hill (221.3 m.a.s.l.) – viewpoint towering above Ręboszewo. At the top since 2012 is a replica of a wooden windmill – Koźlak. On the ground floor there is a small café. Moreover, visitors can see original but inactive mechanism transported from Sokółka in Podlasie.

Rutki

Small village between Żukowo and Borkowo, at the mouth of the Radunia Ravine. Energy of flowing water has been used in Rutki for centuries – once as a part of the Glińcz Estate a mill and small forge functioned here. In the early 20th century in a narrow Babidolski Gorge were plans to construct a hydroelectric power plant with a dam in Rutki. It started with a 2-kilometer long reservoir, today mostly muddy. The power plant fulfilled an important function, providing energy even during the interwar period for building the city of Gdynia. In the 80s of the 20th century a trout farm has been established here.

Attraction:

Power plant in Rutki was established during the years 1908-1910 as the first in the energy system of the Radunia river. It capacity is now 440 kW and drop 12.2 meters. Inside the building are historic turbines and an exhibition devoted to plant’s history. Visits after prior contact – phone: 58 6820124.

Sierakowice

The largest village of Kartuski District. According to legends the origins of Sierakowice might date to the late 12th century, however certain information come from the 14th century. In 1382 the village was granted to Piotr from Lewino. Under the Teutonic rule the village depopulated rapidly. Since 1466 until the Partitions was leased by noble families as a part of the Mirachowskie Starost. The Łaszewscy family were village heirs for long – Sierakowice remained in their hands until 1879. The next owner, a Jew Jakub Krebs, has sold out the estate among 150 owners.

At the turn of 19th and early 20th century, in the face of growing germanisation, local people began to associate in numerous economic and social organisations, which have developed particularly during the interwar period. In the last 20 years the town developed steadily due to residents’ enterprising skills.

Attractions:

wooden church and The Cultural Park of Eight Beatitudes.

Museum of the Sierakowicka Land – in halls on the ground floor of the Commune Culture Centre have been collected hundreds of exhibits related to former Kashubian households. Contact: phone: 58 681 6214, 6847602, gok@sierakowice.pl, www.gok.sierakowice.pl;

St. John the Baptist church – initially Neo-Gothic with modern equipment. In 1956 was supposed to be demolished, however residents of Sierakowice have saved it from destruction by blocking workers attempts.

Somonino

A village with over 2.5 thousand residents located in the so-called Somoniński Basen on the edge of Żukowsko-Przywidzka Upland. Linguists derive village’s name (first mentioned in 1241) from a man named Siemion (a variant of a name Simon), who might have been village’s founder. The settlement was established around the mill on Radunia, next to functioned a saw mill and a manor farm which for centuries was developed by lessees of the Carthusian Order estate. The manor farm lands included primarily area between the Radunia and contemporary Siemiana and Plażowa streets.

Establishing the railway connection Kościerzyna-Kartuzy in 1901 was favourable for village development process. In 1929 led here also the Coal Trunk-Line (Silesia –ports in Gdynia). In 1975 seat of the Commune was moved here from Goręczyno.

Attractions:

a complex of railway buildings – mostly from the turn of the 20s and 30s of the 20th century. Interesting technical solution of a water tower, which was incorporated into the hillside above Wolności street, more than 20 meters above the platforms;

Somoniński Gorge – one of the three Radunia gorges which can be seen from the road parallel to the river.

Stężyca

Until recently Stężyca was a very distinctive example of a typically double village. Till the outbreak of World War II the village was divided into Szlachecka, on the left side of the Radunia, and Królewska – on the other side of the river. In the 13th century the settlement was mentioned as knight-owned estate. In the days of the Teutonic Order on the eastern part was separated a manor farm which resulted in village’s division, further maintained at the time of the First Polish Republic. Stężyca Szlachecka was more populous – at the end of the 19th century had almost 600 inhabitants, 300 more than the twin village on the eastern shore of the Radunia. There were plans of establishing here a railway connection Bytów-Kartuzy, but eventually railway line led through Kościerzyna.

As a summer resort the village began to develop in the early 20th century, when the hotel ‘U Bungsa’ was established here. However, larger tourist groups started visiting vacation centres located over Raduńskie Lake during the post-war period. Nowadays, Stężyca offers also private accommodation facilities and agritourism farms.

Attractions:

St. Catherine of Alexandria church from 1706, built on the initiative of Jakub Alshut parish priest as the fifth temple on this site. Its interior offers well preserved and modest Baroque furnishing. Above the entrance to the sacristy are Gothic reliefs from the previous church;

Neo-Gothic church – from the late 19th century, after 1945 functioned as an auxiliary church. Nowadays, used for the benefit of the Light-Life Movement;

Neo-Gothic chapel at the crossroads to Kościerzyna and Szymbark dates approximately to 1920. Founded as a votive offering for saving life during the war.

Promenade at Raduńskie Górne Lake in Stężyca, photo. J. Lipiński

Strysza Buda

Village between Staniszewo and Mirachowo over the Łeba river, formerly known as Mirachowo Dolne. Since the 16th century the Mirachowski Starosts had a mill here and later set up a farm with sawmill. In 1835 the property was sold into private hands. The existing mill works exclusively for the needs of a small hydroelectric power.

Attractions:

Kashubian Miniature Park;

mill on the Łeba river – dates to the 19th century. (nowadays not available for sightseeing). Nearby is a trout farm.

Sulęczyno

Communal village (1.6 thousands inhabitants) over Węgorzyno Lake and the Słupa river, on the Kartuzy – Bytów road. In historical sources was first mentioned in 1224. Initially belonged to the Chmieleńska Castellany and during the 16th century to the Bellon family who were under the surname Sulęccy. In the years 1585-1751 the village was in the hands of the Heidenstein. The first member of the family Reinhold Heidenstein, was Stefan Batory’s chronicler and the author of legal code that was in force in Prussia until the Partitions. Heidenstein have also left the first church in independent parish.

In 1766 Łaszewscy, the owners of estates in Puzdrowo and Sierakowice, purchased the village. In that time the lake adjacent to the village from the south has been dried out. This enabled the demarcation of a new beaten route from Kartuzy to Bytów and the construction of a mill. In 1867 the growing Evangelical community has built their own church. The Prussian authorities took over the estate from Łaszewscy in the 2nd half of 19th century. They formed a Forest Division here and carried out reforestation on surrounding infertile soil. Before World War II, tourists could take advantage of two hotels. After the war recreation centres were built over Wegorzyno Lake. Nowadays, village offer also private accommodation facilities and agritourism farms.

Attractions:

St. Trinity Church from 1874, built on the site of a previous wooden burnt down temple. Baroque altars come from the previous church;

Manor from the 18th century – its owners were the Heidenstein and Łaszewscy families. Since early 20th century it housed the seat of the Forest Inspectorate. In 1982 the building was converted into recreation and training centre. Nowadays transformed into a hotel. Every year in July, a Festival Jazz in the Forest is held there.

Szymbark

Village located on upland at the foot of Wieżyca in Stężyca Commune. Founded in 1610 by Kościerski Starost Dmitr Wejher who brought German settlers from West Pomerania. Soon, along with residents of neighboring Kłobuczyn they have founded an Evangelical community here, a specific ‘island’ of German settlers among Kashubians and named the village Schönberg. During the interwar period growing community of Kashubians and Catholics used the building opposite the temple for religious purposes. Nowadays, this building houses restaurant ‘Pod Wieżą’. During war the Germans shot 10 people in Szymbark. All of them were captured in retaliation for the robbery attack on a local shopkeeper.

Attractions:

Regional Centre of Education and Promotion ;

Wieżyca;

Saint Thérèse of the Child Jesus church from 1882, post-evangelical with modest interior and furnishings from the second half of the 20th century. Historic wooden matroneum extending from the centre of the nave as well as ceiling deserve our
attention;

place of execution of hostages from Szymbark on Piaskowa Góra – is marked and located nearby road from the centre of Szymbark to the Regional Centre for Education and Promotion.

Tokary

Small village in Przodkowo Commune. Its origins date to the 14th century when the Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights granted it to Ścibor de Plemiechov – progenitor of the Tokarski family. The family was in charge of the estate until the 18th century when the Kczewscy family took it over. Subsequently, it belonged to the German owners. After the war State Agricultural Farm (PGR) has been created. Village buildings centered around a manor house and farm. Nowadays, the manor no longer exists, only utility buildings and a former park have preserved.

Attractions:

Golf Course in Tokary which exists since 2001; situated in a valley nearby former manorial estate. It covers the area of 45 ha, has 9 holes and its total length is 5800 m. The area includes varied land arrangement, wetlands, ponds, sandpits and greenies. There is an opportunity of renting equipment, learning the game or improving technique of bouncing and beats within specially prepared areas. a complete novelty are indoor tennis courts with artificial turf. Contact: phone: 58 694 01 82, www.tokarygolf.pl;

Stable in Tokary – offers horse riding lessons, guided tours, horse and carriage rides around the area as well as sleigh rides in winter. Contact: phone: 608 862 441.

Trątkownica

The village was once called Doliwoda, nowadays is a hamlet of Wyczechowo situated at the mouth of Trątkownicki Gorge to Basen Kiełpiński over the Strużka river. Previously housed an inn and was in vicinity of an important route from Gdańsk to Kościerzyna.

Attractions:

Stone Wedding – barrow cemetery and stone circles;

Trątkownicki Gorge – Not available for tourists, however it offers many natural attractions. The Strużka river reaches here 2-3 percent decline and river bed is covered with boulders resembling a mountainous stream.

Trzepowo

Village in the Wietcisa river valley, 3 km southwest of Przywidz. Its history was initially connected with Przywidz as both villages constituted part of estate of Cistercians from Eldena. During the interwar period it housed a border guard post of the Free City of Danzig. The local leader of the Union of Poles, Józef Uhlenberg, in the years 1933-34 made attempts to create Polish school in Trzepowo, unfortunately without any success.

Attractions:

Łąkie Lake – glacial lake covering the area of 3,6 ha, 3 km west of the village;

Wood carving workshop of Zenon Kosater – sculptor creating mainly figurines of saints and shrines. Moreover, there is a gallery of works of art. Contact: phone: 58 682 52 68;

Ski Resort Trzepowo – contact: phone: 601745645, biuro@nartykaszuby.pl , www.nartykaszuby.pl.

Tuchlino

Located in the Słupia river valley, which has its head section there. The first document concerning the village dates to 1354. The village belonged to petty Kashubian nobility. The clan of Tuchlińscy stem from here and various branches of family have adopted divergent nicknames. Moreover, from Tuchlino comes the Bishop of Chełmno, Johannes Nepomuk von der Marwitz (1795-1886), who was involved in actions against Germanisation. On his initiative the magazine ‘Pielgrzym’ (literally: ‘Pilgrim’) was published with the aim of supporting Kashubians in attempts
to preserve their cultural identity.

Attractions:

Educational Park Exotic Zoo Kaszuby – zoo with rare and exotic species of spiders,
fish, reptiles, birds and mammals. Contact: phone: 600 342 128, zookaszuby.pl,.

Węsiory

Village on the Kartuzy – Bytów road, on the so-called Czyste Pola, which stretch between Sulęczyno, Kamienica Szlachecka and Korne. Linguists claim that village’s founder held a nickname indicating his distinctive moustache (in the Polish language: wąsy). Since the Teutonic times village was a knight-owned estate. The clan of Węsierski family come from Węsiory.

Attractions:

Stone circles;

Gród Gotów – a mock-up of a fortified settlement where tourists have the opportunity to take part in activities and games referring to the history of the Goths. Contact: phone: 607109203, www.goci.wesiory.pl.

Wyczechowo

The village consists of two parts: buildings cluster near road 20 and linear settlement nearby the old manor. Since 1241 for 41 years the village belonged to the Goręczyńska Episcopate Castellany. Written sources indicate that in the 17th century the Wyczechowscy family were village owners and the property was gradually fragmented. In the 19th century Wyczechowo fell into the hands of Karl Michael von Groddeck, who as the first Kartuski Starost in 1818 has turned Wyczechowo into Starost’s headquarters for the next 12 years. The agricultural reform of 1929 resulted in land allotment among peasants. What is worth noticing,
among the local settlers were also The Gorals.

Attractions:

Complex of a manor and manor farm – from the 80s of the 19th century, surrounded by a park with trees protected as natural monuments.

Wygoda Łączyńska

Village to the east of Raduńskie Lake nearby the Borucino-Miechucino road. In close vicinity of the Borucinka river. During the 19th century there was a manor farm which belonged to nearby village Łączyno. In 1902 from chmieleńska parish was separated a vicarage which four years later became a separate parish. With the course of time the initial hamlet was transformed into a separate settlement and began to develop.

The area is renowned for Kashubian strawberry raised since 1922 when Helena Gruchała from the nearby Długi Kierz transplanted seedlings from an abandoned school garden to her own.

Attractions:

St. Joseph church which dates to 1914 and is Neo-Baroque. It constituted a part of sacred building complex, which included also the presbytery, organist’s house and cemetery. Their architect was Fritz Kunst from Cologne. Brick facade is decorated with plaster details, including a relief Assumption of the BVM by Franz Vlasdeck of Mainz. As it comes to the interior our attention deserve, among others, stained glass windows with biblical scenes and richly decorated altar of St. Joseph.

Zawory

Village located on a small fluvial terrace between Kłodno and Małe Brodno Lakes, at the foot of the Kosie Hills. Since the 13th century, with only short breaks, it belonged to the Norbertine’s Convent in Żukowo. Since the 90s the town develops intensively as an agritourism resort. Moreover, it offers numerous private accommodation facilities.

Attractions:

Kosie Hills – hills towering to the west of Zawory; offer commanding views of Chmieleńskie Lakes and Ręboszewo.

Zgorzałe

Village on the western shore of Raduńskie Lake. The first data concerning its origins come from 1284. In those times it belonged to the Pirsna Land, including surroundings of Raduńskie Lake and Kościerzyna. In the days of the First Polish Republic several noble families, including the Mściszewiccy family, owned the village. After World War II the first holiday resorts
were created here and now tourists might also use private accommodation facilities.

Attractions:

Regional Chamber in the local Volunteer Fire Department – organised by the Association of Women of Zgorzałe. Old tools, photographs and other memorabilia have been gathered there;

unguarded lido nearby the rural park;

Guarded lido with water sports equipment rental nearby the vacation centre Sosnówka – contact: www.sosnowka.com.

Żukowo

Relatively young city – obtained the city rights in 1989 – with less than 7 thousand of inhabitants. The first recorded information concerning Żukowo come from 1201. Eight years later the Duke of Pomerania Mestwin I granted Żukowo and the surrounding villages to the Norbertines who soon settled here in a newly built convent. In 1226 the convent was destroyed by the Prussians who murdered all nuns. During the 15th century nuns were still making unsuccessful attempts to obtain charter for monastic settlement. Once again, the monastery was destroyed by Hussite who plundered the area in 1433. It took long to restore former glory and it was possible due to support of the nearby Carthusian monastery. After the area was unified with lands of the Polish Republic, monastery’s revival was finally possible. The convent was in charge of a school for girls from noble families and the middle class. School’s curriculum apart from educating in the fields of reading and writing included embroidery and sewing. The Convent in Żukowo was suppressed in 1834. Its possessions have been sold out and the church was handed over to the diocese of Chełmno.

After World War I Żukowo was in close vicinity of the boundaries of the Free City of Danzig. During this period, sisters Danuta and Jadwiga Ptach have founded an embroidery club and were creating new, colorful designs. In such a way the Żukowska School of embroidery was established. After the outbreak of World War II, the Nazis arrested and murdered representatives of local intelligentsia. In 1942 German settlers from contemporary Lithuania and Moldova were brought here. In winter 1945 prisoners evacuated from the Nazi death camp Stutthof were lead through the town. During fights with the Red Army in March of the same year in Żukowo and the surrounding area have been killed circa 4,000 soldiers.

Attractions:

The Norbertine’s Convent Complex with St. John church and a Parish Museum

The Norbertine’s Convent Complex in Żukowo, photo. J. Lipiński